03 2.4 Rebuilt Engine, Won't Start

[Jollyradar]

Hey guys,

Had engine rebuilt by a shop in my area and I installed it. I have fuel and Spark verified. Compression (in order) is: 150, 150, 120, 150 (approx) I realize number 3 is border line but i figure it will seat once it is running, doesnt seem bad enough to me not to even start.

The car will turn over and then the starter kicks out with a loud bang.

This is an 03 2.4l engine.

Any ideas are greatly appreciated. If I missed a piece of needed info just ask.


Thanks.

[JSM1284]

Take it back to the repairing shop and have them fix it under warranty if it was just rebuilt.

Also, what do you meant by starter kicks out with a loud bang?

[Jollyradar]

That is the plan after I rule out anything else i could be missing. Like i said i dont think 20% less compression on one cylinder is enough to keep it from starting... more concerned about the loud bag. Is there a way to 'jump' the ecu to get flash codes on these engines?

the loud bag is a metal on metal sound. i dont know if it is the starter kicking out or the cause of the starter kicking out.

thanks

[Mike Murrell]

If they rebuilt the engine, why the variation in compression?

[Jollyradar]

Well when an engine is rebuilt the pistons are replaced and the cylinder walls are honed, this takes out any imperfections and takes the glazed metal off. The new pistons and fresh cylinder wall metal will then create their own glaze and seal. If you were to just replace the piston but did not take off the glaze the cylinder wall and piston would never seal up. This is the purpose of the break in period of any engine, so that the piston and rings seat with the cylinder wall.


20% is normally the maximum difference between cylinder compression as a rule of thumb. But I dont think one cylinder being that low would keep it from firing.

Does anyone know of any other reason this model engine would not fire? Or what the loud bang could be? Also is there a way to get a CEL flash code on this model?

Is there a security system issue I could be dealing with after having the battery undone?

Thanks

[njerald]

Timing??????????????

[Jollyradar]

That would be a taking it back tot he shop so they can fix their mistake under warranty.... And that also would explain the loud bang because this is a zero clearance engine meaning if the timings off pistons are hitting valves.. btw thats what caused this whole thing to begin with. The crank sensor had been replaced the tech dropped/left the aluminum sensor cover in the block and didnt go get it out. 60k miles later.... it finally wraps itself around the crack gear making the teeth useless, stops turning the cams and goes into self destruct mode.

I guess what I keep asking is if there is anything not normal or extra that i am missing with this model that could be causing this.. if not great but I'd rather make sure that I have done everything right before I take it in and start the finger pointing.

Thanks guys

[DressUpYourPet]

Its hard to tell when you say "loud bang" exactly what you mean. But a loud bang from an engine usually means the spark plug is trying to fire with a valve open (usually an exhaust valve).
If so this could mean that

-you have a sticking valve or two; or
-one or more valves were installed too tight (not enough clearance between cam and lifter); or
-that your timing belt or chain whichever it uses, was installed incorrectly and the valves and cam are out of time with the crankshaft.

you know you have fuel and spark for sure, so now the question becomes is the engine getting ditto at the right time in the 4 cycle process.

[gdanaher]

1. If you have fuel and spark then it is going to run if the timing is even close. Make sure you have the ignition plumbed to the correct spark plugs in the correct order.

2. The 'bang' is interesting. Pull the starter and rotate the crank to see if there any chips on the fly wheel and to verify that there are no parts obstructing the forward rotation of the crank.

A shop rebuilt the engine and you are installing? Just how rebuilt was it? A short block, long block, or everything except hooking up the battery? How will they split out the labor or work if their is a warranty issue. In other words, if it won't start, whose fault is it and who will pay to find out what is wrong?

[Jollyradar]

It was a short block rebuild, I took it to them to have the block machined and other parts checked out. Then I had to leave town for a couple weeks so I just had them go ahead and do the rebuild so I could just drop it in when I got home. I called the shop today and they think that it is a fuel pressure problem.. doesnt make since to me but they have diag equip so i took it to them this evening.

So I guess there isnt anything unusual about this engine or someone would have said something by now. so back to the basics.


Thanks guys

[touringcamry]

I'm pretty sure you are not supposed to bore the cylinder walls of a 2AZ. The engine is aluminum with steel liners.

I am not knowledgeable about rebuilding engines, but how does honing the cylinder walls affect this liner or are the replaced?

[TRD VVTi]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

I'm pretty sure you are not supposed to bore the cylinder walls of a 2AZ. The engine is aluminum with steel liners.

I am not knowledgeable about rebuilding engines, but how does honing the cylinder walls affect this liner or are the replaced?

It's not a problem to hone them.

Most engines with sleeves can be bored. Sometimes when a larger bore isn't acceptable the sleeves have to be replaced with larger sleeves. This requires a lot of work to the block. This is becoming more and more common. Some engines cannot be bored over due to the design and/or thickness of the liners and requires replacement of the block.

[touringcamry]

Originally Posted by TRD VVTi

It's not a problem to hone them.

What is honing and how is it different from boring? Is it just smoothing out the liner wall rather than enlarging the bore?

[TRD VVTi]

Originally Posted by touringcamry

What is honing and how is it different from boring? Is it just smoothing out the liner wall rather than enlarging the bore?

Honing is basicallly cleaning up the surface, but most imporatantly making a surface to help the rings seat into the cylinder walls. Boring is making the cylinders larger. They may need to be enlarged due to damage, wear, or for larger displacement.

[white07cam]

OT: TRD that text above your avatar is hilarious! sorry I had to comment