5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hi there! Car dummy needs help before taking to dealership!
have a 2002 camry V6 (don't know think it's an SE- all options, leather)
While driving at speeds higher than about 50MPH I notice that it feels like its got hesitation, or like an inconsistant power feeling, like jumpy. Cruise on or off - doesn't matter. RPM's stay the same & so does MPH so it's not that big of a deal but it is still noticable. Does anyone have any guesses before I take it to a shop? I don't have a lot of money!!!
Something with emissions perhaps? or spark plugs and/or wires?
Check your engine air filter as well. If its too dirty, you should get it changed and see if the issue is still there. It's inside the big black plastic box in the engine bay.
__________________ 2009 Audi TT 2.0T --- THE BEAST! 2002 LE 4Cyl --- Gone, but not forgotten. 06/28/09
Glaring blue HID bulbs are NOT classy, and don't make your car look nice, no matter what that kid in the Civic told you.
I have your car...and all the cars ive owned that ever had this problem (hesitation at speed) all turned out to have fuel related issues.
Id suspect the fuel injectors, perhaps one or more is clogged or worn out. The fuel injectors can be bad and you might never see the CE light. Try an additive in the tank, if you notice a difference, it might be worthwhile to have them injectors professionally flushed.
If your idle is no longer smooth as it used to be this could be another inidcation.
I'd also have the coil packs tested or test them yourself. Possible bad connection/dirty connection/worn out or broken coil pack (the things that pop over the spark plugs are the coil packs)
Quote:
If not, try cleaning (and checking) the EGR valve and ports. Also try cleaning the MAF sensor.
She didnt say she was having trouble with a poor idle, TRD_genius. Why do you suspect the EGR???? If the EGR was bad not only would it hesitation but the idle would be bad too. Go ahead and flame me, youre so busy flaming people you cant even recognize when you yourself are full of crap.
I'm stressing ! I bought this car because I wanted something with less problems! I traded in a 2001 olds Alero (yes I know) that had 201,000 miles that I had bought brand spankin new. That thing was a turd & I was looking forward to having a car with less issues! It scares me!!!! I'm probably looking at big bucks huh?
That thing was a turd & I was looking forward to having a car with less issues! It scares me!!!! I'm probably looking at big bucks huh?
Get a diagnostic from a good honest shop before throwing parts at what somebody on an internet forum thinks MIGHT be the problem. As long as your basic engine is good (strong compression and no noises) theres no reason to think it might not be something as minor as changing an injector, the spark plugs, or a sensor or switch for a hundred bucks or so
Hummm...Whats the MIL? There are no indicator or warning lights on.
I'm a girl, so I don't know what the EGR valve is or the MAF sensor, but I'll look them up & see what I can do on my own. I'll let you know!!
-Kelly
The MIL is the Malfunction Idicator Lamp, also called the check engine light.
If you aren't familiar with the MIL, EGR, or MAF, I would suggest that you have your vehicle checked out by a qualified technician. They can monitor live data while the vehicle is driven to see if anything isn't responding correctly. I would recommend the Toyota dealer, as they have access to TSB's and the best diagnostic equipment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by marc780
I have your car...and all the cars ive owned that ever had this problem (hesitation at speed) all turned out to have fuel related issues.
Id suspect the fuel injectors, perhaps one or more is clogged or worn out. The fuel injectors can be bad and you might never see the CE light. Try an additive in the tank, if you notice a difference, it might be worthwhile to have them injectors professionally flushed.
If your idle is no longer smooth as it used to be this could be another inidcation.
I'd also have the coil packs tested or test them yourself. Possible bad connection/dirty connection/worn out or broken coil pack (the things that pop over the spark plugs are the coil packs)
She didnt say she was having trouble with a poor idle, TRD_genius. Why do you suspect the EGR???? If the EGR was bad not only would it hesitation but the idle would be bad too. Go ahead and flame me, youre so busy flaming people you cant even recognize when you yourself are full of crap.
Again, you are failing. That is your theme. Talking out of your ass doesn't mean that you know anything. You can't even diagnose the most obvious things of all with your own vehicle (warped brake rotors). I'll post some of your great responses after I finish typing mine.
New fuel injector designs do not tend to clog and injectors rarely wear out anymore. If that were the case, the vehicle would be experiencing a miss and/or an air/fuel ratio problem. Of course that would usually set a code and an MIL.
An ignition problem would certainly show a missfire code, and would show up under acceleration or under load. Of course, neither one was her concern either.
The idle isn't always "bad" when an EGR valve is faulty. Depending on what's wrong with it you could have several symptoms, simply one, and even none. That's why it's important to check it's operation. See, you really don't know what you're talking about. Apparently, you are not at all intelligent because you can't even figure out how much you don't know when it's posted for you OVER AND OVER AGAIN! That simply amazes me. Here is a DIY link that talks a little about EGR operation:
The EGR can also cause elevated combustion chamber temperatures. Even if the OP isn't hearing any knocking, the sensor could pick it up and reduce/retard the timing and cause a change in engine power. Here's another link that explains the EGR a little bit more (not everything that I've said though):
Here is some more of marc780's technical advice blunders:
1) marc 780 states that Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.
2) Here marc780 states that moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.
3) Now marc780 states that impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.
4) marc780 also recommends that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECM. The ECM decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECM what position the TB is at.
5) Here marc780 suggests that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying Quote: remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
6) Here marc780 states that this person should replace the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.
8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.
9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...
10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.
11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!
12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:
13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.
14) marc780 strikes again! This is a thread where he tells someone to dilute coolant that comes premixed (Toyota Super Long Life). As usual, he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about but passes along inaccurate information anyways.
15) marc780 never gives up. Here he states that an IAC motor is basically a engine temperature regulated choke and that it has vanes in it. He also suggests to check a cold start injector on a '99 Solara.
16) marc780 continues to pass myth along as facts. Here he states that the Toyota Camry needs 5,000 miles to break in even after it's posted that Toyota states that's not the case at all. He also states that synthetic oils will keep an engine from breaking in, even though GM, Porsche, Mercedes, Chrysler, BMW, Ferrari, etc. use synthetic oils as factory fill.
17) In this thread, marc780 thinks that if the EGR valve is a bad the vehicle has to have a "bad" idle also. Of course that isn't the case, but he doesn't know what he's talking about anyway...
I had the same problem, hesitation and such, and it did turnout to be the EGR Valve, once it was replaced it was fine and has been fine since. TRD helpped me out a lot with that problem and a ton of other problems or concerns that came up. So what he says you know it's right and to the point and honest....
The 4 cylinder 2AZ-FE (2.4L) Camry engine (also used in Scion TC, XB, 09 Corolla XRS/XLS, Highlander, Rav4) does not use any form of Exhaust gas recirculation. Almost none (if any) of the 04+ cars do. FYI, EGR reduces the temperature inside the combustion chamber during the burn, which prevents the creation of NOx (oxides of nitrogen) which are bad for the environment.
Back on topic, I agree with TRD VVTI about visiting a Toyota Dealer. They have the best equipment available for diagnosing your specific issue.
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