power steering problem, need help

[5point7]

My wife's 02 camry 4cyl is having an issue where the power assist is working in pulses. As you turn the wheel for example to parallel park, it'll work for a split second then the wheel will become hard to turn for the next split second. This happens continuously in pulsation as you turn the wheel left or right.

I checked the fluid level this morning when it was about 40 degrees out and it was a quarter inch below the minimum mark. I don't know this translates to to a hot reading though. I did add fluid til the level was half way between the min and max but it didn't help any.

The belt is not loose, tires are inflated, the car wasn't in an accident or anything like that. What is going on?

[Luna2]

Originally Posted by 5point7

My wife's 02 camry 4cyl is having an issue where the power assist is working in pulses. As you turn the wheel for example to parallel park, it'll work for a split second then the wheel will become hard to turn for the next split second. This happens continuously in pulsation as you turn the wheel left or right.

I checked the fluid level this morning when it was about 40 degrees out and it was a quarter inch below the minimum mark. I don't know this translates to to a hot reading though. I did add fluid til the level was half way between the min and max but it didn't help any.

The belt is not loose, tires are inflated, the car wasn't in an accident or anything like that. What is going on?

If it was "a quarter inch below the minimum mark" it might have some air in it. To do a simple fast flow of the fluid, to expel the air from the line is to jack up the front tires off the ground. Then rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop (WITHOUT HITTING THE STOPS) three or four full times. Then repeat the "parking" test.

I had this problem before and it was the relief valve stuck open. I had to replace the pump.

Keep us posted.

[njerald]

1. You may have overfilled it. It come up close to 1/4" when hot (160-176 degrees F).

2. Bleed the air as described in the previous post.

3. The output pressure of the pump can then be checked by the dealer or a good mechanic.

4. Things wear out...............

[TRD VVTi]

Check out this link:

http://www.camrystuff.com/manuals/Ge...r_Steering.pdf

If you don't have the proper tools to diagnose the system or repair it, bring it to the dealer.

[5point7]

UPDATE:

Today I raised the vehicle and turned the steering wheel lock to lock as suggested to bleed the system. The problem is still there. In fact, the problem is there even with the engine turned off and vehicle off the ground.

So, I took down the steering column and disconnected it from the rack and pinion to try and eliminate binding in the column as the culprit. I spun the steering wheel and it was fine, no binding.

I then went to physically turn the left front wheel by grabbing at 9 and 3 o'clock and it was binding. (column still disconnected) The tie rods are not worn or damaged. There's no damage to any of the suspension that I can see. There are no leaks either.

Would a situation like this more likely be caused by binding/failure of the rack and pinion or some sort of relief valve that is stuck open/closed?

[njerald]

Amazing............

[5point7]

Originally Posted by njerald

Amazing............

Oh yeah? Which part?

[5point7]

Guys, I really need your opinions here. I hope there are tech's here among us or at least someone who is an avid diy'er.

Anyway, if anyone is still following this, I've got further update. I took the car into the dealership and they told me I have to replace the steering mainshaft and the intermediate steering shaft. Thing is, I'd already undid the whole column from the rack n pinion and the binding was still present when I went to turn the vehicle's front wheels by hand. Smells very much like typical repair facility BS to me. How can a binding that is still present with the column separated from the RNP still be caused by the steering column?

Then on top of that they told me they have to remove the tie rods as well as do an alignment in order to do the job. The rack N pinion input shaft that comes up through the firewall is manufactured so that it only goes in one way thus the alignment angles are never altered. I don't understand all this tie rod and alignment talk.

Please help. I've seen much competent info given on here. Not that I haven't already gotten some but I need more of it. THANKS

[5point7]

Hey I know nobody's really been paying much attention to this and though it's 3 months old, I'd like to offer an update in case it might help anyone experiencing the same problem....

THE PROBLEM COMPLETELY WENT AWAY WITH THE WARMER SUMMER TEMPERATURES.

I suspected it was a valve or seal of some sort that wasn't functioning properly. I think I might still be right.

[sniper34]

This is the first time I saw this post, being a newbie here. I know that it is working now and that it can't really be checked at this point but when it happens again you have to isolate either a pump problem or a rack problem. You already eliminated the column. When it happens, look into the pump reservoir (?) and see if there is action in the fluid. You should see it moving, especially when you try to steer it. If you see none, the pump isn;t working. If the fluid is relatively clean and does not smell burnt, I would suspect the pump. Even if the pressure valve is no good you would probably have to change the whole pump. If you want while the weather is good, drain the p/s fluid from the system. Remove the low pressure return hose and run it till the fluid stops. You can run another quart thru the system to flush it, reconnect the hoses and fill the pump resev. You have to turn the wheels back and forth to get all the fluid in. Then start it and purge the air as stated earlier. This might remove the dirt in the valve. In any event if this doesn't help, the system will be clean for a new pump.