5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I think this is a common problem... I have a squeal/screech noise (from time-to-time) when I first crank-up. It seems to happen mostly when the humidity is high or when it rains. The noise usually lasts for just a few seconds, but sometimes it lasts maybe 10-20 seconds before the noise stops.
I assume this noise is coming from the accessory (A/C, Alternator) belt idler pulley bushing, but I'm not sure. The belt looks good (top and bottom and sides) with no cracks, etc.
Does anyone have an easy fix to eliminate this noise without changing the belt and idler pulley? Maybe like spraying some lubricant in the pulley once every few months?
I think this is a common problem... I have a squeal/screech noise (from time-to-time) when I first crank-up. It seems to happen mostly when the humidity is high or when it rains. The noise usually lasts for just a few seconds, but sometimes it lasts maybe 10-20 seconds before the noise stops.
I assume this noise is coming from the accessory (A/C, Alternator) belt idler pulley bushing, but I'm not sure. The belt looks good (top and bottom and sides) with no cracks, etc.
Does anyone have an easy fix to eliminate this noise without changing the belt and idler pulley? Maybe like spraying some lubricant in the pulley once every few months?
You can buy an aerosol can of belt dressing for a temporary fix for glazed belts.
belt is prob dry rotted or cracked and needs replacement....like stated above, belt dressing is a temp fix, but id just get your belt replaced as soon as possible
If you spray the belt and the noise goes away, replace the belt.
If the noise doesn't go away, one of the accessories is making the noise and it's probably the tensioner.
An automotive stethoscope can help you locate noises easily.
(I assume you mean spraying water as a test method, not belt dressing. So please let mw know about this...) I guess I could spray the belt "before" a cold crank. Spraying the belt after starting the engine might not be a good indicator, because sometimes the squeal only lasts a few seconds...and sometimes it lasts longer.
Do you think I should use a water hose to spray water, or would it be better to use a spray bottle of water and get the water "only" on the belt but not the tensioner/accessory equipment pulley? Also, should I try to keep the water off the tensioner to isolate it as the source of noise?
It could be your belt most likely. My dad's Gen 5 did the same and I sprayed it with some WD40 and the sound was gone. I have to remind him again he needs to change his belt pretty soon.
It could be your belt most likely. My dad's Gen 5 did the same and I sprayed it with some WD40 and the sound was gone. I have to remind him again he needs to change his belt pretty soon.
I was under the impression that the "spraying" (by TRD VVTi") was just for test purposes to see whether the noise was caused by the belt or the tensioner.
I see you sprayed WD-40 - am I to assume you sprayed WD-40 for test purposes, not for any long-term quietening purposes? And just for test purposes, do you recommend spraying belt dressing on the belt for a long-term (more than a few days) temporary elimination of the squeal noise?
Very true... I just want to figure out if the squeal if the belt or the tensioner.
I've read that a [somewhat] temporary fix for a belt squeal is to use bar soap, baby powder, brake cleaner, WD-40, or dedicated belt dressing on the belt. Any thoughts on using any of these?
I'll probably suggest that my son have the belt changed for a new one, using a Gaterback belt. But I sure would like to figure out if the squeal is coming from the belt or the tensioner first...
Very true... I just want to figure out if the squeal if the belt or the tensioner.
I've read that a [somewhat] temporary fix for a belt squeal is to use bar soap, baby powder, brake cleaner, WD-40, or dedicated belt dressing on the belt. Any thoughts on using any of these?
I'll probably suggest that my son have the belt changed for a new one, using a Gaterback belt. But I sure would like to figure out if the squeal is coming from the belt or the tensioner first...
Using anything to quiet the belt is for test purposes. If the noise goes away by spraying, soaping, powdering, etc. you need a new belt because it's slippings or has debris in it.
If it only lasts a few seconds have someone else start the car for you...
EDIT: A binding accessory can also cause the belt to slip which will make noise. Check all the pulleys also.
Using anything to quiet the belt is for test purposes. If the noise goes away by spraying, soaping, powdering, etc. you need a new belt because it's slippings or has debris in it.
If it only lasts a few seconds have someone else start the car for you...
EDIT: A binding accessory can also cause the belt to slip which will make noise. Check all the pulleys also.
use baby powder on your belts (no joke) this is something the hot rodders use when they have belt squeal
no school like the old school
That's a good trick! Im going to try it if i have this problem again. Which i have in the past, and it was with a brand-new, OEM-toyota belt too. The only solution is to tighten the living heck out of it, that is if the baby powder trick doesnt work.
I hate to contradict people but personally i DO NOT use belt dressing anymore, except as an emergency measure. Belt dressing works by softening the belt material, it is a petroleum-based product and that is the last thing you want on a rubber part. It might eat up your belt and destroy it, and your belt will snap in a week or two if you do, this is what happened to me the last time i used this crap.
That's a good trick! Im going to try it if i have this problem again. Which i have in the past, and it was with a brand-new, OEM-toyota belt too. The only solution is to tighten the living heck out of it, that is if the baby powder trick doesnt work.
I hate to contradict people but personally i DO NOT use belt dressing anymore, except as an emergency measure. Belt dressing works by softening the belt material, it is a petroleum-based product and that is the last thing you want on a rubber part. It might eat up your belt and destroy it, and your belt will snap in a week or two if you do, this is what happened to me the last time i used this crap.
That's a good trick! Im going to try it if i have this problem again. Which i have in the past, and it was with a brand-new, OEM-toyota belt too. The only solution is to tighten the living heck out of it, that is if the baby powder trick doesnt work.
I hate to contradict people but personally i DO NOT use belt dressing anymore, except as an emergency measure. Belt dressing works by softening the belt material, it is a petroleum-based product and that is the last thing you want on a rubber part. It might eat up your belt and destroy it, and your belt will snap in a week or two if you do, this is what happened to me the last time i used this crap.
Belt dressing will not eat up a belt and cause it to snap. You probably screwed something else up. After all, you couldn't even diagnose your own belt noise after you installed it. You weren't smart enough to adjust the belt or install it at the correct tension.
You give out advice about brakes and belts, when you don't even understand the basics.
Here are some more of marc780's technical advice blunders:
1) marc 780 states that Toyota requires a specific P/S fluid and not Dexron - Toyota has recommended Dexron and Dexron II for decades. Check the online manual.
2) Here marc780 states that moving the TPS around until the car idles correctly is acceptable. You cite that because you do it that it's fine. Actually, you need a scan tool or voltmeter to set it within specs. Check the online manual for verification.
3) Now marc780 states that impact wrenches are just as good as torque wrenches for installing wheels and not causing any problems. Again, you cite that because you do it that it's proper. That's not true. You can search ANYWHERE for supporting facts that you are incorrect.
4) marc780 also recommends that someone with a faulty accelerator pedal sensor replace the TPS instead. That will do nothing. The accelerator pedal sensor relays it's information to the ECM. The ECM decides what exactly the driver is trying to accomplish and signals the throttle body what to do. The TPS that's integrated into the throttle body tells the ECM what position the TB is at.
5) Here marc780 suggests that an I4 2AZ-FE (with a timing chain) has a timing belt and cover by saying Quote: remove the timing belt cover and run the engine and listen for the noise. Be very carefull but put your hand or an object on the timing belt pulley to affect its operation - (use care not to get that thing tangled inthe engine!) and listen.
6) Here marc780 states that this person should replace the timing belt, waterpump, and idlers for no reason. The car comes with timing chain and the water pump is external.
8) Here is a thread that he started because he couldn't even figure out that his power steering belt just needed to be readjusted because it stretched slightly. Belts needing to be adjusted is COMMON knowledge after a new belt is run. He can't even figure that out on his own.
9) Here is his contribution by adding a "TECH" article to the forum. He suggests smashing battery cable ends with hammer or smashing a penny with a hammer to make a battery cable "shim". His "TECH" write up also suggests starting a stored vehicle every two weeks and letting it idle to charge the battery...
10) In this thread he recommends jamming a screwdriver into the throttle body and throttle blade. This can easily damage the throttle body itself, the throttle blade, and any coatings by scratching it.
11) Here marc780 couldn't even figure out why his car vibrated when the brakes were applied. He doesn't even understand that you can't see the rotor warpage with the naked eye. He also suggests that he thinks an alignment problem could cause his braking vibration. Again, this just shows he doesn't even grasp the basic principles!
12) Apparently, marc780 has a learning disability because after being told over and over that the 2AZ-FE has a timing chain instead of a belt he STILL gives advice about 2AZ-FE's and timing belts or covers:
13) Here is were marc780 tells someone to "solder" a PLASTIC radiator tank as the only good repair. Of course, solder doesn't adhere to plastic and would be completely worthless just like most of his advice.
14) marc780 strikes again! This is a thread where he tells someone to dilute coolant that comes premixed (Toyota Super Long Life). As usual, he doesn't have a clue what he's talking about but passes along inaccurate information anyways.
15) marc780 never gives up. Here he states that an IAC motor is basically a engine temperature regulated choke and that it has vanes in it. He also suggests to check a cold start injector on a '99 Solara.
16) marc780 continues to pass myth along as facts. Here he states that the Toyota Camry needs 5,000 miles to break in even after it's posted that Toyota states that's not the case at all. He also states that synthetic oils will keep an engine from breaking in, even though GM, Porsche, Mercedes, Chrysler, BMW, Ferrari, etc. use synthetic oils as factory fill.
17) In this thread, marc780 thinks that if the EGR valve is a bad the vehicle has to have a "bad" idle also. Of course that isn't the case, but he doesn't know what he's talking about anyway...
19) marc780 recommends abandoning an electrical circuit instead of first checking the basics. This is because he doesn't know what he's talking about, as usual (surprise)
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