5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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Does anyone know if it's necessary to remove or lift up the engine (2004 2AZ-FE) from the engine bay with a hoist in order to remove the timing chain cover to reseal the cover for oil leak? The procedures to replace timing chain in FSM call for removing/lifting the engine with a hoist, plus power steering pump. I wonder if Toyota dealerships normally do that just to reseal the timing chain cover.
Last edited by vasy; 09-18-2008 at 07:41 AM.
Reason: Add GEN 5 icon
U have to take the engine out to do it. There is no way u can do it with the engine in the car. I just did an engine swap and had to remove timing cover. U have to drain oil, remove engine, remove oil pan, p/s has to be removed (p/s mount is on the cover), remove pulley, belt tensioner, take timing cover off, clean old sealant off of surface, apply sealant to cover, and install it back on to the engine, clean old sealant off of oil pan mating surface reapply sealant to oil pan and install..etc....it wasn't too bad...just time consuming...
Insert the blade of SST between the crankcase and oil pan. Cut through the sealer and remove the oil pan.
SST 09032-00100 NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surface of the cylinder block and oil pan.
REMOVE CHAIN TENSIONER ASSY NO.1
a)Remove the 2 nuts, tensioner and gasket. NOTICE: Do not revolve the crankshaft without the tensioner.
REMOVE V-RIBBED BELT TENSIONER ASSY
Remove the bolt, nut and tensioner.
INSTALL ENGINE HANGER
Install the engine hanger No. 1 and No. 2 with the bolts as shown in the illustration
Parts No.
Torque: 38 Nm (387 kgf-cm, 28 ft. lbs.)
REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING INSULATOR]
a)Attach the engine chain hoist to the engine hangers. CAUTION: Do not attempt to hang the engine by hooking the chain to any other part.
b)Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine mounting insulator FR
c)M/T: Remove the bolt and disconnect the engine lateral control rod
d)Remove the bolt and disconnect the steering gear return hose clamp from the frame
Remove the 4 nuts from the engine mounting insulator RH. Raise the engine and remove the engine mounting insulator RH.
REMOVE ENGINE MOUNTING BRACKET RH
)Remove the 3 bolts and engine mounting bracket.
REMOVE TIMING CHAIN OR BELT COVER SUB-ASSY
a)Remove the stud bolt for the drive belt tensioner from the cylinder block.b)Remove the 14 bolts and 2 nuts.c)Pry out the timing chain cover with a screwdriver. NOTICE: Be careful not to damage the contact surfaces of the timing chain cover, cylinder block and cylinder head.
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Last edited by JSM1284; 09-18-2008 at 05:42 PM.
The Following User Says Thank You to JSM1284 For This Useful Post:
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in reference to your previous post, i think he is referring to the timing cover and not the front main seal. For sure the front main seal can be removed/installed without removing the engine according to your post.
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Thank you both. I was referring to the timing chain cover held by 14 bolts and 2 nuts. There has been a very small oil leak from there for 3 years but the leak has not gotten worse since it started. A few drops a month, not measurable by dipstick and no need to add any oil between oil changes. If the leak does not get much worse in the future, I can deal with that. I need to decide if I want to get it fixed under 5-year power train warranty in the next 5 months. My concern is, depending on how careful the tech does the job, the fix could create new problems and by the time the new problem shows up, no warranty is left.
I think the PS pump just needs to be detached from its mounting location and the PS fluid does not need to be drained, is that correct?
What is the front main seal? Is that the valve cover where the ignition coils are sitting on? I'm not aware of any other covers. Thanks in advance.
Last edited by vasy; 09-18-2008 at 08:58 PM.
Reason: Changing "front main cover" to "front main seal".
Got a follow-up question. The FSM does not mention anything about separating the engine from the transmission, or separating the AT from the drive axle, fuel lines, etc. For removing the timing chain cover, does the engine just need to be lifted up a few inches, or it needs to come out of the bay?
resealing the timing cover itself is fairly simple, so if the tech f*ks that up he shouldn't be a tech. Removing and reinstalling all the other components is the pita. Furthermore, the engine bay is too small, and there is not enough space to just remove the block from the tranny. U have to remove the whole engine with the tranny attached to it. P/s pump bolts(2) need to be removed.
Front main seal is a circular rubber seal on the cover, the pulley is bolted to the crank thru this hole on the cover. Depending on condition of this seal, u might want to replace it as well. When i swapped out my engine, i had to replace the timing cover, sealed it up and I haven't had any leaks. If it's still under warranty let the dealer fix it for u.
"Removing and reinstalling all the other components is the pita."
That's the part a careless tech could mess up, not that he doesn't know how to do it on the technical side.
U have to remove the whole engine with the tranny attached to it.
This means the drive axle/half shaft must be separated from the tranny? The FSM posted by JSM1284 doesn't mention that. I'd think even if you just need to lift up the engine several inches and let it stay in the engine bay area with the hood removed, you still need to remove a lot of components not mentioned in the FSM, such as drive axle, fuel lines, radiator hoses, etc. Who can tell me? This is an I4, 2AZ-FE.
Not when you remove the engine and trans from the bottom with the sub-frame attached, you just need to unbolt the steering knuckles from the struts.
There are many things that a tech would to do to short the time for repairs, including removing timing cover when the engine is in the car. It can be done but since the timing cover use FIPG for sealing, the chances of improper sealing is high when trying to work around everything.
axles do have to be removed, fuel lines, wires have to be unplugged, might have to remove intake manifold, due to the fact that the harness snakes under and in between the manifold. U can probably lift it a few inches without having to take off the manifold, but u might not have enough room to work. IMO I had to scrape off the old sealant with a razor blade and i made sure it was clean before i sealed it backup. U might not be able to access all the areas of the mating surface if u only lift it up a few inches...like i said, all that work lifting it a few inches u might as well pull the engine all the way out so you can do the job properly
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