I recently had to do this and here is another how to post on how to change the rear hub(bearing) assembly. It was making a ridiculous amount of humming noise at any speed and when i deliberately wobbled the car at speed (to take weight off one side) revealed what side was bad as the noise would momentarily disappear. (Not sure how scientific my diagnostic methods are especially on California freeways!)
After putting it off for many months, upon taking off the rotor and spinning the hub, the rear hub was revealed to be bad due to a mushy cracking sound being heard and not free spinning enough. (I borrowed some of BMR's pictures from his post about the 1992 that were relevant andsimiliar enough i thought id include them. His car was an older model so alot of what he says wont apply for a 2002 Camry.
Rear wheel bearing R & R - How to and why
The pictures i borrowed were very similar to the 2002 Camry and BMR if you object. pm me and i will remove the pictures.)
It is not a difficult job at all but the part is not cheap
. I bought the drivers side (left) from Kraegen and it was $240.
Pepe boys wants $230 and napaonline was over $300. I didnt bother looking up Toyota OEM part cause i know the drill and this car already has 123k on it. Toyota OEM might be the best quality if not best price.
Here is the cheapest i found:
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-beari...R00063/1052222
If you buy your part online there's a couple important things to bear in mind before you give them your money! You must specify ABS or not and you MUST specify left (drivers side) or right (passenger side) when you order the part. (The ABS connector on the back of your new hub fits through the hole on the backing plate and if you get the wrong side hub it just wont fit.) If you are not sure your car has ABS or not, check your owners manual which ought to tell you if you have ABS. Otherwise crawl under and take a look, ABS equipped car will have a wire and connector going back there, above where the parking brake cable goes in.
Non ABS hubs are much cheaper, so if you have some other year Camry or just dont have ABS you're in luck, you will only have to pay around $100 per hub.
1. Raise your wheel up, put a jack stand under the rear sheet metal support, and remove wheel.
2. Block at least one front wheel front and rear with some wood so it cant roll. The parking brake must be off now.
3. Unbolt brake caliper (14 mm) from behind and pull it off. Support it by tying it to the strut with wire, string, or a coat hanger so it does not hang from the hose.
4. Examine rear pads. If the lining is thinner than 5mm, put some new pads on your shopping list. If the pads are still good, just pull the whole pad and mount assembly off, taking care not to dislodge the pads. You can clean and lube them if they need it otherwise leave them be.
5. Unbolt caliper mount from behind (14 mm). Remove mount.
6. remove rotor. (Make sure you did not set your parking brake if so, release it.) How to remove rotor - nothing holds it on now but it will probably be stuck on there anyway. Find some small bolts that fit in the threaded holes on the front of rotor. Tighten these bolts and the rotor will slowly slide off.
7. Examine rotor, if it looks chewed and worn another item for your list to have them turned, or to replace them.
8. Now you are looking at your rear hub (what we are going to change) and your parking brake linings. If the parking brake linings are totally worn out, buy some. Mine were a bit thin but my auto parts did not even stock them so since there was a tiny lining left i skipped it for now.
At first glance it may appear that the parking brake hardware will block the hub from coming out. It doesnt. The parking brake backing plate and the hub assembly are held in by the same 4 bolts and the hub goes over this plate.
There is no reason to disassemble the parking brake just to change your hub so if the parking brake is ok, leave it be, the hub comes out from inside the backing plate once the 4 bolts are out.
9. Notice your hub (the part that spins and where the lug bolts come out of.) On its front it has two big holes, they are there to allow you to remove the hub assembly. You will need a long 14 mm socket of 3/8" drive and socket extension. (My 1/2" socket would not fit the hole.) Shine a flashlight in there while spinning the hub and look through the big holes, you will see the 4 bolts that hold on the hub. Use your socket and remove these 4 bolts. Be ready when the last bolt comes out, the hub may fall out or not. If your bolts fall between the hub and brakes just let them be, they will all come out when you pull the hub out.
photo courtesy TN member BMR.
10. You may need a pry bar to make the hub come out. Pry against the brakes or just tap the hub with a hammer. It will fall out.
photo courtesy TN member BMR.
11. If you were not sure if your car has abs you will be now. Once the hub pops off, it will be dangling from the ABS connector in back. Find the tiny tongue-looking hold on for the connector in its center and gently pry it up with a small slot screwdriver. Lever the connector off hopefully without mangling it.
12. Seperate the hub from the brake backing plate.
13. Place your new hub up where the old one came off. A screwdriver or two may be helpful for aligning the holes. Put your bolts in through the big hub holes and get them started. Do not tighten them all now until they are all in, then use a sequence just like your wheel lugs nuts.
14. If you have abs, dont forget to reconnect it now.
15. Put the rotor on now over the lug bolts, if you are reusing the rotor, degrease it well with brake cleaner.
16. Bolt the caliper mount back on with its two bolts.
17. Place the pad assembly over the rotor. (If you changed the pads, remember you are going to have to squish the caliper piston all the way back in the caliper with a c clamp or pliers.)
17. Place the caliper over the pad assembly. Clean and lubricate the long bolts with high temp brake grease. Insert the long bolts and tighten them/
18. Reinstall wheel.
19. test drive. All done.
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