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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 02-27-2009, 06:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Help Please!

Hello I am in the process of wiring my V1 Radar detector. I took apart the center console and found that the cigarette lighter in the glove box has 12 v of power. I used my multimeter to determine that the red wire is the positive. So I used the T tap to tap the red wire. I ran the ground to the screw as shown. The radar detector will not fire up. It uses an inline fuse. Can anyone tell me how to check and see if there is 12 V at the inline fuse? I am not very good with the multimeter so if you could tell me what setting and what to plug the wires into that would be great. Thanks for the help!
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Take the inline fuse apart. Make sure the power is on. Check with the meter at the fusr wire. It is possible that the tap is not good. Again, make sure the key is on! No power to the lighter without key on. Check fuse wire from tap to fuse holder. Then hold in fuse and check thru fuse. Then put fuse holder together and skin wire after holder to check again. You need power at all these areas. You will prob find the tap didn't take or the key was not on.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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To simplify, with the key on put the red meter probe to tapped side of fuse holder. Black probe to ground. Should read 12+ v. Move red to after fuse holder. Should read the same. If no reading after fuse, fuse ng. If no reading before fuse, key not on or tap ng. Also, scrape metal under ground screw eye. That's the best I can do without coming over and doing it myself!
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Well when I put the red probe on the red wire I get 0 volts. What mode should the voltmeter be in 20 DC?
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:45 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Settings on the volt meter is right, 20V on DC setting. But like what the others said, make sure you have keys in. Check your fuse if its still ok,
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:52 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfa500 View Post
Well when I put the red probe on the red wire I get 0 volts. What mode should the voltmeter be in 20 DC?
20 volts dc is just fine. Where did you touch the black probe while you were holding the red probe to the red wire?

With the ignition turned on, practice your skills by checking the voltage on the lighter plug itself. You should have voltage. Now, the wire tapped into the red wire should also have voltage if the tap actually is touching the center conductor inside the red wire. If the lighter plug is hot/has 12 volts showing on your meter, then the tapped wire should also be hot. Holding the probe to the tapped wire, touch the negative probe to ground and see if you have 12 volts. If you don't then the tap didn't work and you need to try again.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:53 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I just know that cigarette lighters don't work unless key is switched on accessory. Not sure if this helps.
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Old 02-27-2009, 07:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Guys thanks for the help. The ignition was on. When I put the red probe in and the ground to the metal I get 0. I tried retapping with no luck. Should I try a different tap? I did check the voltage at the lighter itself, it was at 12+. To do that I had to put the red to the red and the black to the white wire slot. When I put the red to red and ground the black probe it shows 0.

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Old 02-27-2009, 08:02 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Taps are made for specific gauges of wire. I'm making an educated guess that the original wire is about 16 awg. Make sure the tap you are trying to use isn't made for something like a 12 awg, or the fork in it won't be tight enough to cut through the insulation and touch the actual copper conductor. Wire taps are at best problematic. If you are certain that the source is hot, then the problem must be with the tap. Try a different tap. Take the old one off and see if you can see polished copper at any point. If not, then it didn't cut through the insulation and is perhaps one size too large for the wire.

Plan B would be to strip off insulation from your source, solder the two wires and then shrink wrap the junction.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:07 PM   #10 (permalink)
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check the fusebox for the cigarette lighter, and check the fuse in your inline fuse. maybe try a different grounding point also
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfa500 View Post
Guys thanks for the help. The ignition was on. When I put the red probe in and the ground to the metal I get 0. I tried retapping with no luck. Should I try a different tap? I did check the voltage at the lighter itself, it was at 12+. To do that I had to put the red to the red and the black to the white wire slot. When I put the red to red and ground the black probe it shows 0.
Then your >ground< really isn't ground and not directly attached to the frame.

All positive electrical flow goes through fuses and switches. Hence, when the ignition is turned off, the plug is dead. You should have continuity between the red wire going to the lighter plug and the tapped wire. To check, set your meter to measure resistance in ohms. Find the omega symbol. Touch the two meter probes together. Some will beep and some will just show a meter reading. Remember what this measurement is. Replicate this on the wiring.

Finally, if your ground really isn't a ground, and you can't find one,connect the black wire from your installation to the wihite wire coming from the lighter plug.
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:19 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Well I dont know if this means anything but when I touch the red wiring coming out of the T tap to the ground I get nothing, when I am touching my ground. When I touch the red wire and touch the black probe to the ground in the plug I get 12 V. Is the problem my ground? Thanks
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Old 02-27-2009, 08:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I fixed it guys, the problem was that the ground was not really a ground. I needed to move it. Thanks for the Help!
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Old 02-27-2009, 09:28 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Amazing.
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Old 02-28-2009, 01:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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I was going to guess a weak ground. Good job guys. I hope the OP learned something from this. Use the hopscotch technique to find out where there is no voltage to get a good idea where to look (when you have verified that you do have current from source). The continuity check can be used for wires, fuses and diodes when the circuit has no current flow, just an FYI. Remember, DC flows from + to - (conventional). Good luck!
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