5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hey guys, I have a mysterious issue with my Camry. It's a 2007 SE V6 model.
I've been driving around just fine until this morning. I went to the grocery market but when I came out the car would not start. The keyless remote worked - the car beeped and unlocked itself.
The instrument panel lights worked. The radio did not work. I did not have any error icons in the instrument panel. When I first tried to fire up the car, the engine tried to turn over, but it couldn't and I just heard this clicking noise somewhere from the instrument panel area.
I tried a second time, and again I only heard the clicking noise from the instrument panel. Later in the day, I returned to that parking lot with our Benz ML to boost the Camry. It successfully started after I boosted it.
I went to my mechanic friend and he tested the battery. He said it was in perfect shape with 14 volts and that my alternator was also working properly.
What went wrong that time? It has never happened before, and I have never drained it before.
I did NOT forget any lamps on. The only additional items connected to my battery are my HID kit (which is turned off when you lock the car), and my subwoofer which also turns off along with the radio (remote sense wire).
Is my battery shot? What went wrong? The car works now but I'm afraid I'll get stranded on the road later on. The car has 65000km on it and it's exactly 2 years old. I would hope a battery has a longer lifespan than this.
Thank you for your time!
__________________ 2008 Camry Hybrid | Magnetic Grey on Grey Leather | Bi-Xenon H1 4300K Retrofit | Italian Hertz Sound System (dash 4" EM 100, front 6.5" ECX 165, rear 6" x 9" ECX 690, 10" ES 250D sub in custom trunk enclosure, HDP5 5-channel amp, 1320W total power) | 4-sensor Rear Parking System | 20% Metallic Tint | Weathertech Floorliners | 17" ASA AR1 Rims | Toyo Garit KX (winter) | Toyo Versado LX II (summer)
If you drove the car to your mechanic and within a few minutes he checked the battery voltage at 14 volts and then checked the alternator with the engine runing and got 14 volts, then he lied to you. The static battery with the engine dead will show perhaps 13 volts if new but not 14. If he made no attempt to test the battery under a resistive load then he didn't earn his pay. The car is three years old. With the engine running and the ac off, use your multimeter to check the voltage across the battery. It should be about 14.1-14.5 volts. If you have good voltage then the battery has voltage to charge. Take the car to a parts store such as Auto Zone or O"Reillys and ask them to load test the battery. I'll bet you need a battery and nothing more. Three years. It's due to fail.
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
Hey guys, I have a mysterious issue with my Camry. It's a 2007 SE V6 model.
I've been driving around just fine until this morning. I went to the grocery market but when I came out the car would not start. The keyless remote worked - the car beeped and unlocked itself.
The instrument panel lights worked. The radio did not work. I did not have any error icons in the instrument panel. When I first tried to fire up the car, the engine tried to turn over, but it couldn't and I just heard this clicking noise somewhere from the instrument panel area.
I tried a second time, and again I only heard the clicking noise from the instrument panel. Later in the day, I returned to that parking lot with our Benz ML to boost the Camry. It successfully started after I boosted it.
I went to my mechanic friend and he tested the battery. He said it was in perfect shape with 14 volts and that my alternator was also working properly.
What went wrong that time? It has never happened before, and I have never drained it before.
I did NOT forget any lamps on. The only additional items connected to my battery are my HID kit (which is turned off when you lock the car), and my subwoofer which also turns off along with the radio (remote sense wire).
Is my battery shot? What went wrong? The car works now but I'm afraid I'll get stranded on the road later on. The car has 65000km on it and it's exactly 2 years old. I would hope a battery has a longer lifespan than this.
Thank you for your time!
Isn't it under warranty?? If yes, bring it back to Toyota. It doesn't sound like the battery or alternator.
I went to my mechanic friend and he tested the battery. He said it was in perfect shape with 14 volts and that my alternator was also working properly.
What Gdanaher said. If you start the car and put the voltmeter probes on the battery it will show 14 volts if the alt is good. But it wont necessarily tell you anything much about the battery as an old battery might still work most of the time, for a while, then it might just conk out all at once and not even click.
He should have checked the battery with engine off (at least 12.6 volts 12.8 is better), check the water in the battery with a hydrometer for dead cells, and load test it. Maybe your mechanic didnt know how or didnt have the tools to test your battery right. And maybe he thought testing the battery with the engine idling was enough. In cases like yours it isnt enough, so if it fails any one of these tests change the battery ($40 bucks at walmart i paid for my last one.)
Guys thank you for the responses. My mechanic friend measured the voltage both with the engine off and engine on. When it was off, I saw that his little gauge thing was showing around 12-13 volts and with the engine on it was at 14 volts. My mechanic did not use a hydrometer but he did open the battery covers to check the fluid inside. He told me the battery looked perfectly good. I don't mean to sound "invincible" but this friend of mine has been a mechanic for about 30-35 years and he has NEVER EVER been wrong about any kind of diagnosis he has ever given me with respect to this car or any other I've brought to him ever.
I'm not worried about whether he earned pay or not because he only charges me for real jobs. We are friends, right?
The car is out of warranty so I don't even want to step foot at the dealer.
The car is actually exactly TWO years old, not three. I've just been putting on a lot mileage but by "time" it's just 2 years old.
Anyway, I have continued to drive around today and every time the car has started up right away. If it dies again mysteriously, at that point I will ask my mechanic to change the battery.
I'm beginning to think that maybe salt and dust buildup at the terminals could have been the cause? I really don't know. I'll report in if this happens again.
__________________ 2008 Camry Hybrid | Magnetic Grey on Grey Leather | Bi-Xenon H1 4300K Retrofit | Italian Hertz Sound System (dash 4" EM 100, front 6.5" ECX 165, rear 6" x 9" ECX 690, 10" ES 250D sub in custom trunk enclosure, HDP5 5-channel amp, 1320W total power) | 4-sensor Rear Parking System | 20% Metallic Tint | Weathertech Floorliners | 17" ASA AR1 Rims | Toyo Garit KX (winter) | Toyo Versado LX II (summer)
I'm beginning to think that maybe salt and dust buildup at the terminals could have been the cause? I really don't know. I'll report in if this happens again.
In that case, pour in some vinegar as you tighten up the terminal.
If you drove the car to your mechanic and within a few minutes he checked the battery voltage at 14 volts and then checked the alternator with the engine runing and got 14 volts, then he lied to you. The static battery with the engine dead will show perhaps 13 volts if new but not 14. If he made no attempt to test the battery under a resistive load then he didn't earn his pay. The car is three years old. With the engine running and the ac off, use your multimeter to check the voltage across the battery. It should be about 14.1-14.5 volts. If you have good voltage then the battery has voltage to charge. Take the car to a parts store such as Auto Zone or O"Reillys and ask them to load test the battery. I'll bet you need a battery and nothing more. Three years. It's due to fail.
Battery due to fail in 3 years? I don't think so. Battery manufactures would be pretty busy and a lot of people would buying batteries on a regular basis if batteries typically fail after 3 years. Batteries go for 5 or more years, easily. I driven many cars in my life time, old clunkers, etc and even old those cars, I haven't had to change the battery in 3 years.
If it were the battery, the problem would be more gradual. This seems to be intermittent. If battery is dying slowly, he would experience starter problems gradually, everyday its hard to start the car, less current going to the starter, until one day there isn't enough current to turn the starter.
A battery can fail in 3 years if its faulty, abused, defective, etc, but the symptoms do not appear to be battery related and unlikely.
My 2002 camry is still the original battery, starts fine even in cold weather (ie below freezing)
Sorry for the quick thread jack. don't wanna start another one.
My engines revs drop sometimes either when im at idol or coming to a stop they go down to 500-600 rpm and the engine is about to die. I'm thinking MAF sensor but im not sure.
Battery due to fail in 3 years? I don't think so. Battery manufactures would be pretty busy and a lot of people would buying batteries on a regular basis if batteries typically fail after 3 years. Batteries go for 5 or more years, easily. I driven many cars in my life time, old clunkers, etc and even old those cars, I haven't had to change the battery in 3 years.
If it were the battery, the problem would be more gradual. This seems to be intermittent. If battery is dying slowly, he would experience starter problems gradually, everyday its hard to start the car, less current going to the starter, until one day there isn't enough current to turn the starter.
A battery can fail in 3 years if its faulty, abused, defective, etc, but the symptoms do not appear to be battery related and unlikely.
My 2002 camry is still the original battery, starts fine even in cold weather (ie below freezing)
You sir haven't a clue about this subject. As a recent example of battery failure I need go no farther than my household. My wife had an 18 month old Rav 4. No electrical problems. She goes shopping. She parks in the garage. One hour passes and she needs to go out and pickup the grand kids. Dead battery. Not even an idiot light. It was within warranty and Toyota bought her a new battery after I jumped it off. It happens. I had a new VW some years ago and the original battery failed at 4 months of age. Again, no warning and nothing on the idiot lights. Cells just opened. In neither case had there been opportunities for abuse. Counterpoint: My father had purchased a Ford new and drove it until the fenders began falling off. The original battery lasted over 7 years. I used to buy Sears Die Hard batteries because they were warranted for 5 years, and one should expect to see 5 years out of it. They always failed between 20 and 40 months though and their prorated pricing structure assured them of profit on their replacement. It took a while to learn the scheme but no more of those in the past umpteen years. Pep Boys does just fine now. Moral of the story is that there is no way you or I can lay hand on a battery and predict the age at which it will fail. They are always suspect.
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
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My Camry Mysteriously Refused to Start!
The car works now but I'm afraid I'll get stranded on the road later on. The car has 65000km on it and it's exactly 2 years old. I would hope a battery has a longer lifespan than this.
We are friends, right?
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