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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 04-15-2009, 11:48 AM   #1 (permalink)
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USA 2 Questions, new ventilated brakes + upgrade to XENON HID

Hi everybody...
I have the 2007 Camry XLE V6 with 30K miles on it.
1st:
I want to install Xenon HID headlight; don't know what to do as the car is supposed to already come with HID lights/setup... do i still need a conversion kit?
2nd:
Also want to upgrade stock rotors to perforated ones (stock ones already warped twice and were fixed and replaced under warranty) i just want to avoid the situation to happen in the future.
Thanks for any input....
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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gen 6 camry's doesn't come with hid set up. its called halogen projector. its not HID. you can buy HID PNP or do a retro. and on brakes you need to torque your wheels lug nuts to avoid warping on the disc brakes. no need to upgrade. still use OEM.
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Old 04-28-2009, 03:35 PM   #3 (permalink)
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USA Drilled rotors.

Let’s go back…
First set of rotors were resurfaced once and since that didn’t work very well, Toyota replaced them (including pads).The car has now 33k miles they are warped again.
I’m scheduled to meet a Regional Manager to test drive it next week (May 5th).
This happens to me every time I hit 135 mph and need to slow down to 40 mph.
At that point the steering wheel and brake pedal shakes out of control.
Is it wrong to assume that the OEM can’t take the heat caused by high speeds?
This is also causing a glaze on the pads and the car feels like it’s sliding instead of braking.
These are the only reason why I’m considering replacing them with drilled rotors.
Reason for Regional Manager:
I had a heated discussion with the Service Manager (Toyota @ Westport, CT) that told me that since the issue is happening over 55 mph they can test it and replicate it (I guess I didn’t read the fine print about the 100k mile warranty is only good for issues under 55 mph).
Then I was told that if I wasn’t happy I should sell the car and anyway I shouldn’t drive over the speed limit. This ended up with a complain at Toyota Corporate – Case Manager and then Regional Manager and me dumping that Dealer.
All I asked was since they couldn’t test it at that speed to give me an alternative route to troubleshoot even after telling him that at 65 mph the shaking was clearly visible as well.
I guess anybody now-a-days can be a ManagerJ Communication skills are totally optional.
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Old 04-28-2009, 03:44 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nhazinho View Post
Let’s go back…
First set of rotors were resurfaced once and since that didn’t work very well, Toyota replaced them (including pads).The car has now 33k miles they are warped again.
I’m scheduled to meet a Regional Manager to test drive it next week (May 5th).
This happens to me every time I hit 135 mph and need to slow down to 40 mph.
At that point the steering wheel and brake pedal shakes out of control.
Is it wrong to assume that the OEM can’t take the heat caused by high speeds?
This is also causing a glaze on the pads and the car feels like it’s sliding instead of braking.
These are the only reason why I’m considering replacing them with drilled rotors.
Reason for Regional Manager:
I had a heated discussion with the Service Manager (Toyota @ Westport, CT) that told me that since the issue is happening over 55 mph they can test it and replicate it (I guess I didn’t read the fine print about the 100k mile warranty is only good for issues under 55 mph).
Then I was told that if I wasn’t happy I should sell the car and anyway I shouldn’t drive over the speed limit. This ended up with a complain at Toyota Corporate – Case Manager and then Regional Manager and me dumping that Dealer.
All I asked was since they couldn’t test it at that speed to give me an alternative route to troubleshoot even after telling him that at 65 mph the shaking was clearly visible as well.
I guess anybody now-a-days can be a ManagerJ Communication skills are totally optional.
Over 135 mph??? If I were a Regional manager, I'm not gonna risk my life sitting next to anyone driving that fast.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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USA I know...

I only drive at that speed if I’m alone and the road allows it (normally night time).
Since the car replicates the same symptoms at 65 mph, the Regional Manager is safe.
Bye the way… the cops only pass speeding tickets around here at speed over 70 mph (Then there is my favorite item in the car, my Cobra Radar detector with GPS and the AURA database, got me out of many tickets).
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nhazinho View Post
I only drive at that speed if I’m alone and the road allows it (normally night time).
Since the car replicates the same symptoms at 65 mph, the Regional Manager is safe.
Bye the way… the cops only pass speeding tickets around here at speed over 70 mph (Then there is my favorite item in the car, my Cobra Radar detector with GPS and the AURA database, got me out of many tickets).
At least you can replicate the symptoms at 65 mph. Good luck and keep us posted.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lammydi View Post
Over 135 mph??? If I were a Regional manager, I'm not gonna risk my life sitting next to anyone driving that fast.
Not with me behind the wheel.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:18 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I can already feel the flames coming about you driving 135mph and complaining that our stock brakes can't handle the necessary stopping power need to slow down to 40mph...
BTW... Rt 15 Merritt Pkwy's one of the most exciting roads I've driven in =)
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Our brakes are not made for that.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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USA

Quote:
Originally Posted by Netforcer View Post
I can already feel the flames coming about you driving 135mph and complaining that our stock brakes can't handle the necessary stopping power need to slow down to 40mph...
BTW... Rt 15 Merritt Pkwy's one of the most exciting roads I've driven in =)
Their complain???? They sold me a V6 with 270CV... that was supposed to be governed at 125 mph.... i took him so far at 140 mph (odometer speed) and it seemed to me it wanted to go further... not enought road to test.
I guess they're expecting people to drive it at 55 mhp... rest is for show and not tested by Toyota
I love the Merritt Pkwy in the Westport area....

Last edited by Nhazinho; 04-28-2009 at 04:29 PM.
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Old 04-28-2009, 04:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Sounds like you are the one that missed the communications skills....
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by njerald View Post
Sounds like you are the one that missed the communications skills....
or the one who wants to be a race car driver and got stuck with a camry...
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Old 04-28-2009, 08:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nhazinho View Post
I only drive at that speed if I’m alone and the road allows it (normally night time).
Since the car replicates the same symptoms at 65 mph, the Regional Manager is safe.
Bye the way… the cops only pass speeding tickets around here at speed over 70 mph (Then there is my favorite item in the car, my Cobra Radar detector with GPS and the AURA database, got me out of many tickets).
HAHAHA a Cobra radar detector?
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:22 PM   #14 (permalink)
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USA Cobra Radar Detector w/GPS

Quote:
Originally Posted by dcemureviews View Post
HAHAHA a Cobra radar detector?
Yes, Cobra...
Cobra XRS-9945 + GPS + AURA Database (same as the XRS-9950)...It's not an Escort 8500x50 or Beltronics Pro RX65 but guess who's the 3rd pick? Yep the Cobra and it also doesn't cost $350
Point is... i has been doing an great job for me.
It does warn me about speed cameras and speed traps...
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Old 04-28-2009, 09:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
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if you're warping and glazing rotors that fast you obviously need a higher performance pad and rotor combo, combined with some education on how to properly cool the brakes after hard stops. cross drilled rotors alone will not solve your problem...

my suggestion, and the dealer will not do this for you, is to install a high performance set of brake pads, preferably a kevlar/ceramic combo along with a set of Brembo blanks, not slotted, not cross-drilled, just blanks. the more mass you have on the rotor the less risk you run of over heating the pads and rotors and consequently warping the rotors and glazing the pads and rotors from overheating both.

do some research online to find out about the different materials available in pads, from semi-metallic to ceramic to full carbon track pads.

as for the education part of the equation, make sure that you NEVER come to a complete stop from very high speed braking. plan ahead, and if you know you will need to stop ahead give youself enough room from the car in front of you to be able to crawl the vehicle without having to come to a complete stop.

when you come to a complete stop after a very high speed braking maneuver pads temps can go from
250F to 800F plus, if this hot pad is left sit on one single spot on the rotor for any more than a few seconds it will force the metal to expand unevenly and therefore warp the rotor.

as far as the glazing you mentioned, this is caused by overheating the pad to the point where the pad material and resins are deposited on the the rotor. the solution to this is to get a pad that is made to withstand these high temps.

also, make sure that all lug nut are torqued equally as this can also lead to warping rotors.

my personal preference for a high performance brake setup without too much monetary outlay is to go with a set of EBC redstuff, EBC yellowstuff, or PBR Ultimate pads coupled with a set of Brembo OE blank rotors. bed them in properly and you will probably have no more qualms with braking.
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