2007 SE I4- Shaking issue at idle

[lollonais]

I have read a couple of post regarding this and no solution from the dealers, at least no updates. My car has 57K miles and vibrates horribly at a stop. I turn the A/C off and its gone. Turn it back on and it get worst again. I do see the tach drop 1-2 lines when I turn on/off the A/C. If I turn the wheel while doing this, forget it, its like a bed vibrating for 25cents. Anybody find out what this crap can be? I took it to 3 dealers (in SO FL, weston, hollywood, deerfield) they all say its normal for camrys to vibrate like this. I say BS, my dad has 99 camry and no vibrations after 120k, all original parts.
PS- have new mounts and had intake cleaned, none helped.

[Punks_Not_Dead5]

if it's an I4, that's the reason....

[ToyotaToday]

Originally Posted by lollonais

I have read a couple of post regarding this and no solution from the dealers, at least no updates. My car has 57K miles and vibrates horribly at a stop. I turn the A/C off and its gone. Turn it back on and it get worst again. I do see the tach drop 1-2 lines when I turn on/off the A/C. If I turn the wheel while doing this, forget it, its like a bed vibrating for 25cents. Anybody find out what this crap can be? I took it to 3 dealers (in SO FL, weston, hollywood, deerfield) they all say its normal for camrys to vibrate like this. I say BS, my dad has 99 camry and no vibrations after 120k, all original parts.
PS- have new mounts and had intake cleaned, none helped.

It could be your a/c compressor. When you turn it on, it adds more resistance to the belt as the clutch on the a/c compressor is engaged. If your a/c clutch is adding too much resistance on the belt than your alternator (drop in voltage output) wont be spinning as fast and thus cause a drop in RPM. When you turn the steering wheel, it adds more resistance to the belt again.

When my a/c compressor was going, it was car was running very rough when i turned on a/c.

[njerald]

Originally Posted by Punks_Not_Dead5

if it's an I4, that's the reason....

Baloney...................

Possible problems if idle does not increase with A/C on:

1. Air conditioning compressor magnetic clutch circuit (for 2GR-FSE)
2. Compressor lock sensor circuit (for 2GR-FSE)
3. Compressor solenoid circuit
4. Heater control panel power source circuit
5. LIN communication circuit
6. A/C control assembly
7. A/C amplifier
8. ECM

[lollonais]

Thanks guys. I went to the dealership this morning and the guy up front asked for $95 to see it. He said its out of warranty. I asked if its the engine, then its not. He said, he wont know that until the mechanic says it is and for that its $95. To add insult to injury, the car was not vibrating as much this morning. My wife says that the car acts up in the afternoon (85 degrees outside). She thinks that the more she drives it during the day, the worst it gets. Since I drive it when she gets home, the car shakes with me.

[BlackCamSe]

Its normal, my 2005 with the I4 did that same thing. The compressor is a big strain on the engine. So between your engine being hot, radiator fans being on high, and compressor taking power away from the engine it all adds up. Hell, even my current V6 idles a little rougher with the a/c on. Try this, when the car is nice and hot after driving it for a wile turn it off and put the key in the on possession (WITHOUT STARTING IT) and turn the a/c on. Even without the engine on with the rad fans on full blast the car will still be vibrating.

[BlackCamSe]

Originally Posted by djkor

In that given scenario, only two possible things could cause vibration:

1) Your radiator fans,
2) Your A/C blower motor

I highly doubt both of these would be that extreme. With the key in the ON position with the engine not started, your A/C is not going to run, period.

njerald is right with his list of possibilities. The engine should be increasing RPM sufficiently so as to enable it to cope with the extra load on the engine. If this problem is not RPM related, then I'd be looking into the components associated with the A/C compressor.

the compressor wont be on but the rad fans will be. And they actually vibrate allot.

[BlackCamSe]

Originally Posted by djkor

If the radiator fans vibrate enough to feel like:

Then you have some SERIOUS problems. They don't even vibrate enough to add up cumulatively with a proper running A/C compressor to create the same effect.

no they don't vibrate that much. But what I'm saying is the rad fans on full blast plus the A/C on creates a pretty moderate vibration.

If I turn the wheel while doing this, forget it, its like a bed vibrating for 25cents.

Plus with the power steering motor cranking. Its normal

[ToyotaToday]

How can it be normal, if he's never experienced this before. Now it is happening, so it is not normal. Correct?

The only way it can be "normal" is if this starts to happen due to normal wear and tear on the car, the a/c compressor does not rotate as smooth as before, alternator is starting to not put out as much voltage, etc.

Wouldn't the owner of the car know what is normal for his car, unless he just bought it? I assume he had it for a few years now.

[ToyotaToday]

Originally Posted by lollonais

Thanks guys. I went to the dealership this morning and the guy up front asked for $95 to see it. He said its out of warranty. I asked if its the engine, then its not. He said, he wont know that until the mechanic says it is and for that its $95. To add insult to injury, the car was not vibrating as much this morning. My wife says that the car acts up in the afternoon (85 degrees outside). She thinks that the more she drives it during the day, the worst it gets. Since I drive it when she gets home, the car shakes with me.

When the weather is hot, the radiator fan will kick in and thus drawing more current. If the belt has a lot of resistance due compressor failing (not rotating as smoothly, lot of resistance), the alternator's output will be less. More demands are put on the alternator when the radiator fan kicks in. The faulty a/c compressor putting too much resistance on the belt for the alternator to operate properly.

Next time this happens, turn on all your accessories, fog lights, rear defogger, stereo, fan, etc, and see if the car shakes even more.

[ToyotaToday]

Originally Posted by XxTrD_ToYoTaxX

Its normal, my 2005 with the I4 did that same thing. The compressor is a big strain on the engine. So between your engine being hot, radiator fans being on high, and compressor taking power away from the engine it all adds up. Hell, even my current V6 idles a little rougher with the a/c on. Try this, when the car is nice and hot after driving it for a wile turn it off and put the key in the on possession (WITHOUT STARTING IT) and turn the a/c on. Even without the engine on with the rad fans on full blast the car will still be vibrating.

rad fan wont create any vibration, or very very little. Not enough for you to FEEL it from the drivers seat. It will only vibrate if it's off balance, which is not likely the case.

[lollonais]

Thanks again for the responses. I will try what you guys have suggested. If it indeed is the A/C unit, then either way I am SOL due to warranty. I have the equivalent of 5 years of driving in miles. You would think that a Toyota product would last more than that.

[ToyotaToday]

Originally Posted by lollonais

Thanks again for the responses. I will try what you guys have suggested. If it indeed is the A/C unit, then either way I am SOL due to warranty. I have the equivalent of 5 years of driving in miles. You would think that a Toyota product would last more than that.

what happens, if you are idling, if you turn on all your accessories (fog lights, radio, read defog, etc), except the a/c, does the rpm drop. I'm trying to see if it's a weak alternator, which may be another possibility, but I'm thinking it's your a/c.

By the way, the a/c compressor and clutch is expensive, get one from a wreck. I got my from a wrecker for $200, which is cheap compared to a new one: $1400 buck ro so Canadian.

[PRINCESS PEACH]

definitely. Even when i roll my windows, my idle changes rofl. And yeah, as stated before, even with the headlights and/or foglights on, the idle changes, and the oil pressure drops. According to my gauges

[lollonais]

Originally Posted by ToyotaToday

what happens, if you are idling, if you turn on all your accessories (fog lights, radio, read defog, etc), except the a/c, does the rpm drop. I'm trying to see if it's a weak alternator, which may be another possibility, but I'm thinking it's your a/c.

By the way, the a/c compressor and clutch is expensive, get one from a wreck. I got my from a wrecker for $200, which is cheap compared to a new one: $1400 buck ro so Canadian.

I did all the tests except the measure of voltage on the battery.

I turn all the lights (no fogs, CE), radio on (2 amps), at idle with shifter in P or N, no vibrations, tach at 900 to 1000rpms.

I place it in D or R, vibrates a bit,drops to about 800 to 900rpms. I turn the steering wheel in both cases, rpms go up.

Now, I turn the A/C on, car shudders rpms 600 to 700.

I turn everything off and A/C on, rpms 700 to 800, up and down.

For some reason, it happens more when the car is very hot in late afternoon when the thermometer reader on the dash reads between 85 to 93 degrees.

Thanks again.