Blower Motor runs with ignition off - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

fkurtz · 06-28-2009, 01:52 AM

Did a search in the forum for this problem and did not find anything. I have a 2007 Camry LE 4 cylinder with manual climate control. Today the battery was dead after sitting for over 24 hours without being used and after getting the battery charged up found out that even with the ignition off the blower motor continues to run. While driving the car I can turn the blower speed selector and have the blower changes speed and when I turn it to off can see the lights go off for max A/C, so I assume the switch is working correctly. I have pulled the connector off of the blower motor to keep from draining the battery again and this s---s since it was 100 here in St. Louis today. Anybody got any ideas or do I need to take to dealer.

Luna2 · 06-28-2009, 04:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkurtz

Did a search in the forum for this problem and did not find anything. I have a 2007 Camry LE 4 cylinder with manual climate control. Today the battery was dead after sitting for over 24 hours without being used and after getting the battery charged up found out that even with the ignition off the blower motor continues to run. While driving the car I can turn the blower speed selector and have the blower changes speed and when I turn it to off can see the lights go off for max A/C, so I assume the switch is working correctly. I have pulled the connector off of the blower motor to keep from draining the battery again and this s---s since it was 100 here in St. Louis today. Anybody got any ideas or do I need to take to dealer.

Are you still under warranty? If not......

Step 1. Unplug blower motor, using a volt meter, measure between pin 2 (red wire) and ground. With ignition on should be between 4.5 & 5 volts (this is actually a pulsating dc waveform, Pulse Waveform Modulation to be exact, the longer duration of the peak, the longer the current is applied, hence the faster the motor runs. Shorter duration peaks, slower motor speed.)

Step 2. Turn off the ignition, voltage should be 0 (no voltage).

If both of the above steps are correct, replace motor.

There are other checks, this test will tell you if the motor or A/C ECU is at fault. Either way (motor $$)(A/C ECU $$)

fkurtz · 06-28-2009, 06:08 AM

Thanks Luna that sounds easier than what I was gonna do which was pull the red wire out of the connector and hook it back up to see if the motor still ran. It looks like the motor is about $129 and the ECU about $379 but if I can do it myself it saves the labor charge. Haven't been in warranty for quite some time already have 70000 on it and this is the first real problem I have had with it.

Luna2 · 06-28-2009, 06:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkurtz

Thanks Luna that sounds easier than what I was gonna do which was pull the red wire out of the connector and hook it back up to see if the motor still ran. It looks like the motor is about $129 and the ECU about $379 but if I can do it myself it saves the labor charge. Haven't been in warranty for quite some time already have 70000 on it and this is the first real problem I have had with it.

With your ability to control the blower speed, the ECU may be at fault...

fkurtz · 06-28-2009, 04:06 PM

Checked it this morning and had 0 voltage at the points you described so it looks like the ECU. So I guess the dealership gets a call in the AM maybe they can reflash it and save me some money but I doubt it. Oh well so it goes with all mechanical beasts. If it wasn't for mechanical things breaking down I would not have a job.

Luna2 · 06-28-2009, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkurtz

Checked it this morning and had 0 voltage at the points you described so it looks like the ECU. So I guess the dealership gets a call in the AM maybe they can reflash it and save me some money but I doubt it. Oh well so it goes with all mechanical beasts. If it wasn't for mechanical things breaking down I would not have a job.

If you had 0 volts with the ign off, the problem isn't the A/C ECU, it should be the motor.

There are 2 fuses to the A/C units (+ the 50 amp blower motor), a 10 amp fuse that is through the IGN when on and a 7.5 amp fuse direct from the BAT.

Remove the 7.5 amp fuse and plug in the blower motor with the IGN off. If the fan motor runs, replace motor.

If the fan motor don't run then plug in the 7.5 amp fuse, with the IGN off, if the fan motor runs, relace the ECU.

fkurtz · 06-28-2009, 06:40 PM

Hopefully I pulled the right fuse it was under the dash and labeled ACC-ECU or the other way around. When I did and plugged the blower motor in it started to run which now I suppose by your directions is the motor.

Luna2 · 06-28-2009, 07:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkurtz

Hopefully I pulled the right fuse it was under the dash and labeled ACC-ECU or the other way around. When I did and plugged the blower motor in it started to run which now I suppose by your directions is the motor.

The correct fuse is the 6th. fuse from the bottom right column 7.5 amp., across from the fuse you pulled. It is marked "A/C".

fkurtz · 06-29-2009, 04:45 AM

That is the fuse that I pulled the other day when I was trying to shut off the motor by pulling fuses and it continued to run so I am pretty confident based upon all the info you have given me that it is the motor. Now time to find one. Thanks Luna2

Luna2 · 06-29-2009, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fkurtz

That is the fuse that I pulled the other day when I was trying to shut off the motor by pulling fuses and it continued to run so I am pretty confident based upon all the info you have given me that it is the motor. Now time to find one. Thanks Luna2

Good day....

I hope the rest gets better. Pleasure to help, the real challenge, now is changing the motor.