2002 Toyota Camry A/C blows hot when stopped/idling

[s0b3]

2002 Toyota Camry 2.4L 4 cylinder

A/C blows hot when the car is stopped or is idling, when moving it blows pretty cold. Compressor clicks during the cycle. A/C button is not flashing (changed the relay last summer). Also both fans are spinning at about the same rate.

The engine also seems to be vibrating more at idle, you can feel and see it shake.

I plan on getting the refrigerant levels checked but it was topped off last summer, about a can and a half low after being in service for 6 years. The sight glass right now looks clear with no bubbles.

I think the problem is that the condenser coils aren't cooling without the airflow like when I'm moving, but would that explain the vibration at idle? I don't think it's filter related but I plan on changing the cabin filter, it's pretty dirty. I also plan on pressure washing the condenser but I didn't see anything glaring, it's dirty from driving but nothing major.

Any ideas?

[hossmaster]

1. to exchange heat through a condenser like on a car air to pass through it.

2. the idle issue is because the a/c clutch has engaged and there is more draw on the engine.

both normal

[s0b3]

Originally Posted by hossmaster

1. to exchange heat through a condenser like on a car air to pass through it.

2. the idle issue is because the a/c clutch has engaged and there is more draw on the engine.

both normal

a fellow texan should empathize, we've had 30+ days of 100 degree heat already.

so both those things are normal, any ideas as to why it's not cooling? i know it's hot but the a/c shouldn't stop blowing cold when idling at a stop light.

[islandboy57]

My guess is you're low on R134a. And if you're low enough to have warm air after having just topped it off last year, that means you have a leak. A friend's Corolla was like yours - if you weren't stepping on the gas, there was no cold air.

[s0b3]

Originally Posted by islandboy57

My guess is you're low on R134a. And if you're low enough to have warm air after having just topped it off last year, that means you have a leak. A friend's Corolla was like yours - if you weren't stepping on the gas, there was no cold air.

cool, going to have that checked out monday. if there is a leak, what are your opinions of the r134a with the leak sealer? is it worth it and does it work for small leaks or is it not worth the mess like fix a flat?

don't have the time or resources at the moment to do a leak test, might be able to do it in a few weeks (my friend has a shop out of town).

should i just fill it and let it leak slowly until i can get it to a shop or use the one with leak sealer and hope it fixes it?

[gdanaher]

This sealer thing was discussed recently and I have a negative opinion of them in general, but they have a place. Here's the deal. Back in the day, Freon, a trademarked name by Dupont, normally was used to refer to R12, a gaseous refrigerant in mobile installations. The chemical consisted of a single large molecular structure. Modern cars use R134a as a replacement because it is thought to be less destructive to the environment. It is not a single molecule but rather a mixture of a couple different molecules. They are smaller, and one of the two is actually quite small. Small enough that it can leak through some older rubber hoses. Modern hoses have a special seal on the interior surface to keep the gas in. The system needs R134a to work properly, and the ratio of gases needs to be maintained properly for it to cool correctly. Too much of one/not enough of the other and it doesn't cool efficiently. When you have a slow leak, the gas does not excape in proportion. The small molecule leaks out and leaves the large molecule behind. Get the idea?

How does this affect your problem? You said that last year a guy added a pound and a half to the system. It only holds about three pounds, so half the gas had excaped. Not half of each molecule. Likely most of one molecule and a little of the other. What does this mean? The guy did you no favors here. He should have evacuated the system and refilled it with fresh R134a which would have had the gases in the correct proportions. What should you do now? The same thing. The refrigerant needs to be collected for recycling, so you don't do this yourself without the proper equipment. Refrigerants are avilable with a colored leak detector. I'd suggest that you have your technician add a detector if he does not have the proper equipment to sniff out a leak. In any event, take the car to someone who can diagnose the problem and avoid the snake oil cures at Walmart and other similat dispensories.

[JustAnotherAsian]

^very informative. hell, i didn't know half of the stuff that was mentioned in that post. learned something new today.

[s0b3]

Originally Posted by gdanaher

This sealer thing was discussed recently and I have a negative opinion of them in general, but they have a place. Here's the deal. Back in the day, Freon, a trademarked name by Dupont, normally was used to refer to R12, a gaseous refrigerant in mobile installations. The chemical consisted of a single large molecular structure. Modern cars use R134a as a replacement because it is thought to be less destructive to the environment. It is not a single molecule but rather a mixture of a couple different molecules. They are smaller, and one of the two is actually quite small. Small enough that it can leak through some older rubber hoses. Modern hoses have a special seal on the interior surface to keep the gas in. The system needs R134a to work properly, and the ratio of gases needs to be maintained properly for it to cool correctly. Too much of one/not enough of the other and it doesn't cool efficiently. When you have a slow leak, the gas does not excape in proportion. The small molecule leaks out and leaves the large molecule behind. Get the idea?

How does this affect your problem? You said that last year a guy added a pound and a half to the system. It only holds about three pounds, so half the gas had excaped. Not half of each molecule. Likely most of one molecule and a little of the other. What does this mean? The guy did you no favors here. He should have evacuated the system and refilled it with fresh R134a which would have had the gases in the correct proportions. What should you do now? The same thing. The refrigerant needs to be collected for recycling, so you don't do this yourself without the proper equipment. Refrigerants are avilable with a colored leak detector. I'd suggest that you have your technician add a detector if he does not have the proper equipment to sniff out a leak. In any event, take the car to someone who can diagnose the problem and avoid the snake oil cures at Walmart and other similat dispensories.

thanks for the info. i kinda figured it was like fix-a-flat. making more of a mess than usual. the a/c seems to be ok when it's under 100 which is rare now in central texas. my neighbor has a recharge setup so we'll measure how much i have and if i need to, i might add half a can or so to get me by until i can take it to my friends shop. i'll tell him to do the dye test and find the leak. hopefully it's just an o-ring and not a larger problem like a compressor.

[gdanaher]

If your friend operates an a/c shop then he is going to have a handy dandy device that can actually smell and locate the leak. Sounds like a geiger counter. In the mean time, put some soapy water on the two valves if you can and see if they are leaking. Valves can leak more than hoses.

[s0b3]

Originally Posted by gdanaher

If your friend operates an a/c shop then he is going to have a handy dandy device that can actually smell and locate the leak. Sounds like a geiger counter. In the mean time, put some soapy water on the two valves if you can and see if they are leaking. Valves can leak more than hoses.

cool by valves, you mean the H and L capped sections right?

[gdanaher]

Originally Posted by s0b3

cool by valves, you mean the H and L capped sections right?

Yes.

Sometimes a Schraeder valve will begin to leak around the seal. Sometimes you can fix it by tightening a little. If it is leaking and tightening fails to fix it, don't try to unscrew it with refrigerant still in the system. Ever heard of Mythbusters and the air gun stunts? Same idea.