5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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Last night I went to my car and it wouldn't turn over. I had a buddy jump start my car. I don't think the cables were hooked up properly the first time (it was dark) and the battery began smoking. After resetting the cables we were able to get it started but now it won't go above 5 mph and the engine won't rev above 1500 rpm. It starts fine now after the jump but same issue with the engine not going above 1500 rpm. Would that still be a battery issue or would something have been messed up when we screwed up the jump start the first time?
Edit: Forgot to mention that my check engine light is on after this as well.
Last edited by heckface07; 08-03-2009 at 04:55 PM.
Oh, man.
You have learned what is likely an expensive lesson. Once the engine is running the battery should largely be out of the loop. Having reversed the polarity and smoke coming out of the battery, first, replace the battery with a new or known good one. You are lucky the car did not burn to the ground. Second, with a new battery and it still does not run properly (power being totally removed to replace the battery) then you are taking it to the dealer and probably replace some hugely expensive components. I'd guess that if the problem persists that you have toasted the computer. This is why people who haven't a clue need to buy the $51 deal from AAA. Good luck with this. Wow.
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
Oh, man.
You have learned what is likely an expensive lesson. Once the engine is running the battery should largely be out of the loop. Having reversed the polarity and smoke coming out of the battery, first, replace the battery with a new or known good one. You are lucky the car did not burn to the ground. Second, with a new battery and it still does not run properly (power being totally removed to replace the battery) then you are taking it to the dealer and probably replace some hugely expensive components. I'd guess that if the problem persists that you have toasted the computer. This is why people who haven't a clue need to buy the $51 deal from AAA. Good luck with this. Wow.
I am worried about the cpu being fried. Would the car even start if that was the case? Kind of a weird coincidence since you mentioned a lightning strike but I just talked to my brother and he said his friend just had his car hit by a lightning strike and it fried a board. His car wouldn't even turn over. Thanks for your input.
Last night I went to my car and it wouldn't turn over. I had a buddy jump start my car. I don't think the cables were hooked up properly the first time (it was dark) and the battery began smoking. After resetting the cables we were able to get it started but now it won't go above 5 mph and the engine won't rev above 1500 rpm. It starts fine now after the jump but same issue with the engine not going above 1500 rpm. Would that still be a battery issue or would something have been messed up when we screwed up the jump start the first time?
Edit: Forgot to mention that my check engine light is on after this as well.
I would have the dealer/shop diagnose it now. If the polarity was reversed it could have fried many different things.
After considering this, it is a miracle that BOTH vehicles didn't get toasted. Maybe because the one battery was so far gone? You will have to tell the dealer what happened so they can diagnose. Next time, keep a flash light in the car so you can see. Most cars have a rubber cap over positive anyway, just to help prevent this sort of thing. While you are waiting for the dealer to open, start pulling fuses and check every one of them to see if anything blew. You might be lucky and have a bunch of blown fuses. I doubt it, but it's worth the time and a darned sight cheaper than what the dealer will charge if that's all it is.
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
After considering this, it is a miracle that BOTH vehicles didn't get toasted. Maybe because the one battery was so far gone? You will have to tell the dealer what happened so they can diagnose. Next time, keep a flash light in the car so you can see. Most cars have a rubber cap over positive anyway, just to help prevent this sort of thing. While you are waiting for the dealer to open, start pulling fuses and check every one of them to see if anything blew. You might be lucky and have a bunch of blown fuses. I doubt it, but it's worth the time and a darned sight cheaper than what the dealer will charge if that's all it is.
Thanks again for the tips. Will definitely check on the fuses. Unfortunately it's 30 minutes away and I don't have another car to drive over there today. Getting someone with a trailer to go pick it up and bring it to the dealership tomorrow so will check the fuses before we load it up.
Lesson was learned (the hard way) and will be keeping a flash light in the car in the future.
Go to Autozone or other local parts stores that will read the MIL code for free. Let us know what they are. At least we'll know what it's complaining.
You most likely fried the battery and maybe the alternator? How about some voltage readings with a volt meter?
Electronics usually have diode protection. But maybe Toyota didn't expect this kind of thing and didn't design any diodes in there.
Quote:
Originally Posted by heckface07
Last night I went to my car and it wouldn't turn over. I had a buddy jump start my car. I don't think the cables were hooked up properly the first time (it was dark) and the battery began smoking. After resetting the cables we were able to get it started but now it won't go above 5 mph and the engine won't rev above 1500 rpm. It starts fine now after the jump but same issue with the engine not going above 1500 rpm. Would that still be a battery issue or would something have been messed up when we screwed up the jump start the first time?
Edit: Forgot to mention that my check engine light is on after this as well.
Man so many of you guys are complete wimps, auto electrics isn't that scary! I agree with djkor - check the fuses, replace the battery, repair/ replace the alternator and go from there.
I'd guess that the alternator would have survived this event. They are pretty sturdy components. If the fues are all fine then I'd wager the ecu was toasted. Much more sensitive to voltage issues and likely not well protected electrically. Yes, good electronic design would include diodes which permit dc electricity to flow in only one direction. Since there is a continuing problem though, the amperage flow backwards to those diodes could easily have burned them right off the pc board. We will all be interested in knowing what the outcome is here because it is an easy mistake to make if you aren't paying attention or have too many hands in the pot.
__________________
2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
If you manage to clear it (essentially taking it off limp mode) and it runs fine after that... consider yourself a very very lucky person.
NEVER CLEAR THE ERROR CODE yourself. Trust me, I learned my clearing code lesson.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asteroid
Man so many of you guys are complete wimps, auto electrics isn't that scary!
Your life is inside that vehicle. If it's component malfunction, that can result in a very scary accident.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdanaher
I'd guess that the alternator would have survived this event. They are pretty sturdy components. If the fues are all fine then I'd wager the ecu was toasted. Yes, good electronic design would include diodes which permit dc electricity to flow in only one direction. Since there is a continuing problem though, the amperage flow backwards to those diodes could easily have burned them right off the pc board.
Rule #1, never trust anything. Have them all check. Alternator is easy to check, just measure it's output voltage. And I've seen components get blown while it's fuse is still good, so don't trust a good fuse either. Have the component check too.
NEVER CLEAR THE ERROR CODE yourself. Trust me, I learned my clearing code lesson.
Your life is inside that vehicle. If it's component malfunction, that can result in a very scary accident.
Rule #1, never trust anything. Have them all check. Alternator is easy to check, just measure it's output voltage. And I've seen components get blown while it's fuse is still good, so don't trust a good fuse either. Have the component check too.
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