5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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Hey experts or super gurus please help! I have spent like $900 trying to fix this problem and my mechanic still could not fix it! I felt so rip off!
My camry is a 2003 5th generation one with a 2.4 engine vvti
OK the problem:-
in cold weather when I start my car, the car either could not start or it will go into low idle about 500 to 800 rpm and within a minute you see the yellow engine indicator light popping out.
I have to turn the car's ignition off and on like 3 to 6 times or leave it to run at 500rpms (low rpm) for a while and only then if I am lucky it will start the car at 1500 rpm.
Interestingly, if the sun is up and weather is warm it starts without any hassle! So please gurus please help I am getting really frustrated at my mechanic for not being able to fix it!
Hey experts or super gurus please help! I have spent like $900 trying to fix this problem and my mechanic still could not fix it! I felt so rip off!
My camry is a 2003 5th generation one with a 2.4 engine vvti
OK the problem:-
in cold weather when I start my car, the car either could not start or it will go into low idle about 500 to 800 rpm and within a minute you see the yellow engine indicator light popping out.
I have to turn the car's ignition off and on like 3 to 6 times or leave it to run at 500rpms (low rpm) for a while and only then if I am lucky it will start the car at 1500 rpm.
Interestingly, if the sun is up and weather is warm it starts without any hassle! So please gurus please help I am getting really frustrated at my mechanic for not being able to fix it!
Thanks heaps in advance!
Speed!
Have you changed the coolant temperature sensor, sounds like it is bad at the low end of the range. A quick test, purchase a new sensor, connect it , but don't install it. Ground it near the motor with a set of jumper clips, see if problem is solved. If not return it.
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
Last edited by Luna2; 09-05-2009 at 07:50 AM.
Reason: more info
If the engine don't die while idling why this bother you? I thought low idling is good cause it consume less gas when it's not doing anything. But too low it'll die.
my rpm is a bit high when it's cold. Usually I don't wait for it to warm up, just put in D and drive slow for awhile and that will get me out of my neighborhood and than normal speed which is around 40mph.
If the engine don't die while idling why this bother you? I thought low idling is good cause it consume less gas when it's not doing anything. But too low it'll die.
my rpm is a bit high when it's cold. Usually I don't wait for it to warm up, just put in D and drive slow for awhile and that will get me out of my neighborhood and than normal speed which is around 40mph.
Hey mate the reason why I did not drive with low idling it is because it is not the normal behavior for my car. It should starts with at least 1500 rpm in early morning cool weather, well I do not know about your car but for me from day one when I got the car it was like that fro few years only recently it failed to low rpm when I starts it and then like I said above I have to fire up many times before it could get it rolling at the usual rpm of 1500.
So yeah ...
Hmm the coolant suggestion sounds like it doesn't link to my situation but would love to hear more of your suggestion being explained.
"Hmm the coolant suggestion sounds like it doesn't link to my situation but would love to hear more of your suggestion being explained."
Luna2 said coolant temperature sensor, not coolant. That would have been my first sugestion as well. The engine coolant temperature sensor is what tells the computer the engine is cold (or warm) and to richen up the fuel mixture to facilitate a cold start and cold idle. You can check your's when the car is cold with a digital volt/ohmeter and the specs from any manual. If you don't have a manual, you can dowmload one for free at the top of the Camry forum over at AutomotiveForums.com.
It would also be helpful to list what your mechanic has done so far for the $900.
Mike
Last edited by Mike Gerber; 09-06-2009 at 09:02 PM.
I agree with Mike in post #6, my suggestion was for a no meter test.
I don't think a coolant sensor will show up on the "CEL" if it fails when cold and outputs a level like it is at 100 degrees, only if open or shorted.........
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
"I don't think a coolant sensor will show up on the "CEL" if it fails when cold and outputs a level like it is at 100 degrees, only if open or shorted........."
That's correct according to a frined of mine who is a former Toyota tech. An engine coolant remperature sensor will only throw a code if open or shorted. That's why I suggested testing it to spec with a DVM.
Mike
PS: Around here sensors are considered electrical parts and as such are not returnable. Speedox, if you go this route make sure the sensor is returnable before you buy it.
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