5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
OK. I'm feeling pretty stupid right now, and pretty upset about it. Yesterday my wife and I bought a 2007 Camry XLE from a local dealership here in Fort Worth, Texas. Of course, we spent hours at the dealership and looked over the car and both test drove it. We liked the car a lot, made the purchase and brought it home. Last night we discovered the problem.
There are a number of interior lights not working. The dome light, reading lights both front and back, ignition switch light, door courtesy lights (all four), and vanity lights are all not working. Additionally, the dash clock only works with the headlights on, and when it works it always resets to 1:00. Finally, the garage door opener also seems to be affected. Everything else in the car seems to be working fine.
I'm really hoping for some help here. Please someone tell me I'm not stuck having to shell out a pile of cash to get this fixed. One last thing... I replaced the "dome" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, and it looks like it blew immediately. I'm suspecting a short of some kind.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Also, if anyone can recommend a mechanic in the Fort Worth area I would be most appreciative.
OK. I'm feeling pretty stupid right now, and pretty upset about it. Yesterday my wife and I bought a 2007 Camry XLE from a local dealership here in Fort Worth, Texas. Of course, we spent hours at the dealership and looked over the car and both test drove it. We liked the car a lot, made the purchase and brought it home. Last night we discovered the problem.
There are a number of interior lights not working. The dome light, reading lights both front and back, ignition switch light, door courtesy lights (all four), and vanity lights are all not working. Additionally, the dash clock only works with the headlights on, and when it works it always resets to 1:00. Finally, the garage door opener also seems to be affected. Everything else in the car seems to be working fine.
I'm really hoping for some help here. Please someone tell me I'm not stuck having to shell out a pile of cash to get this fixed. One last thing... I replaced the "dome" fuse in the engine compartment fuse box, and it looks like it blew immediately. I'm suspecting a short of some kind.
Thanks in advance for any thoughts. Also, if anyone can recommend a mechanic in the Fort Worth area I would be most appreciative.
Sounds like you've had the previous owner clown playing with light bulbs/wiring. Good Luck.....
Probably the previous owner performed one of those stupid (and completely useless) LED mods but couldn't put everything back together properly due to incompetence.
__________________ 2008 Camry Hybrid | Magnetic Grey on Grey Leather | Bi-Xenon H1 4300K Retrofit | Italian Hertz Sound System (dash 4" EM 100, front 6.5" ECX 165, rear 6" x 9" ECX 690, 10" ES 250D sub in custom trunk enclosure, HDP5 5-channel amp, 1320W total power) | 4-sensor Rear Parking System | 20% Metallic Tint | Weathertech Floorliners | 17" ASA AR1 Rims | Toyo Garit KX (winter) | Toyo Versado LX II (summer)
sounds like someone really messed up a led conversion or the wiring in the car. you can try going into the led conversion sticky to see how to take apart the things that don't work right and see if maybe bulbs or something are missing.
Less than 30 days, locally the dealer warranty (MD/VA) is responsible for repairs of that nature. I don't know about TX. Might be better to check first, you should be covered for (at least) the first 30 days......
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
Probably the previous owner performed one of those stupid (and completely useless) LED mods but couldn't put everything back together properly due to incompetence.
not exactly useless, i have direct replacement leds and their alot brighter then stock. which ones r u talkin about.
Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure that TX doesn't offer any kind of buyer protection on used cars from dealers that are sold "as is". I'm afraid that I'm going to be at the mercy of the used car dealership, and that is not something that gives me a warm fuzzy feeling.
As to the suggestions about bulbs... Do you guys really think that a bad bulb conversion could be the cause of this? I assumed that this was some kind of short. I was hoping that a short prior to the "Main Body ECU", as this seems to be electrically common to all of the faults. I guess I'll look into this bulb conversion thing when I have some time.
Any other suggestions? Anyone have any Toyota service specialist recommendations? Thanks again.
Unfortunately, I'm pretty sure that TX doesn't offer any kind of buyer protection on used cars from dealers that are sold "as is". I'm afraid that I'm going to be at the mercy of the used car dealership, and that is not something that gives me a warm fuzzy feeling.
As to the suggestions about bulbs... Do you guys really think that a bad bulb conversion could be the cause of this? I assumed that this was some kind of short. I was hoping that a short prior to the "Main Body ECU", as this seems to be electrically common to all of the faults. I guess I'll look into this bulb conversion thing when I have some time.
Any other suggestions? Anyone have any Toyota service specialist recommendations? Thanks again.
At the top center of page 166, you will find the fuse for the dome. Follow the light green wire through page 166 & 167 to page 168 to the junction block. Check the luggage compartment lamp first, easiest to get to and the most likely to be damaged (not likely but the Noise Filter could be bad). Follow all of the lines for your model/options. This manual will also point out the locations of all of the connectors.
Note: if the car doors were closed when you put the fuse in, the bulbs in that circuit shouldn’t be suspect.
Most of the lamps sockets now have a wired plug on them also, just unplug them, such as the room lamp, just because of the switch in there could have issues. I hope you or your mechanic will be able to find your problem easily.....
Good luck.....
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
Go to Pep Boys and buy a couple packages of the relevant value fuses and then proceed to pull every light bulb you can get to that seems not to be working.
Beyond that, if you are good with an ohm meter, check for continuity on both sides of the bulb socket to ground. One side should be ground and the other one should not be grounded. If it is, this is an indication of a short. Trail all the positive wires back to the fuse block. Something is grounded.
I doubt that anyone tried to get cute with led's or anything else. This is Texas after all, not Southern California, and folks here don't do that very often.
Does the radio work and the lighting to it? How about the back lit knobs for air conditioning and other dash lights?
It is possible somebody hooked up a radar detector in the wrong place and messed the wiring, or it is also possible that somebody had a problem and installed a fuse of insufficient value, so it pops. Make sure that if it needs 10 amps that you give it 10 amps.
Many of the cars being sold here are repo's and it isn't too likely that the previous owner spent anything to doll the car up much.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
1) Did you buy your Camry from a Toyota Dealer?
2) If so, was it a certified used vehicle?
If so, take it back to the dealer. Three items on the 160-point inspection might have been overlooked. 1) Dome/courtesy lights operate with door cycles, 2) "Fade-away" dome light works properly, and 3) Clock keeps time. In addition, if it is obvious that the person before you took out the lights and messed with them, you might also be able to claim that they did not check for evidence of improper repairs.
If you did not buy a certified used car, you are probably going to be on your own for repairing the issue. I'd at least try and call the selling dealer to see if they will pay for part, if not all of the repair. (You never know)
Since you inspected the car in the daytime, you should return to the point of purchase and speak on the issue. Calm and factual. Check in with any govermental consumer agencies, car dealer's associations and BBB to see where you stand. Don't file any complaints until you are sure the seller is not going to help or refund you money, but don't give them more than about 7 days. Read your purchase contract as well, there may be info on this issue.
Sorry to hear you are having these issues, a new car should be a happy event.
Remember that your money is precious to any seller these days!
It seems that Texas has a 3 day buyers remorse clause, and I have also been led to believe there is a similar federal law. My plan right now is to simply return the car to the dealership tomorrow morning since this is within the 3 day window. I'm going to simply return the car and get my old one back. I'm leery of keeping this car as electrical problems like this sometimes have a way of being hard to track down and coming back. The last thing I want is for them to "fix" this and then it fail again in a few weeks, months or even a year or two down the road.
This seems to me to be the best course. Thanks for the great advice, but about the only way I would even consider keeping the car at this point would be if the dealer fixed the problems and guaranteed the repair in writing for at least 2 years.
It seems that Texas has a 3 day buyers remorse clause, and I have also been led to believe there is a similar federal law. My plan right now is to simply return the car to the dealership tomorrow morning since this is within the 3 day window. I'm going to simply return the car and get my old one back. I'm leery of keeping this car as electrical problems like this sometimes have a way of being hard to track down and coming back. The last thing I want is for them to "fix" this and then it fail again in a few weeks, months or even a year or two down the road.
This seems to me to be the best course. Thanks for the great advice, but about the only way I would even consider keeping the car at this point would be if the dealer fixed the problems and guaranteed the repair in writing for at least 2 years.
Why not go to them and tell them that. Fix it and guarantee the repair and have it documented.
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