2005 Camry wtih 2.4 litre engine (maintenance)

[redbrass_ca]

Hi folks,

I recently purchased a used 2005 Camry with a 2.4 litre engine and automatic transmission. In the past, I did most of my maintenance work myself on different model types. I am new to the camry and need to educate myself about its maintenance requirements. My vehicle has approximately 52000 miles or 84000 KM. It has been dealer maintained up to recently as it was part of a lease package.

I would like to know if there is a comprehensive maintenance schedule for the 2005 toyota camry?

Secondly, I want to spray the vehicle with a rustproofing certified product and would like to know where should holes be drilled in the doors and bidy panels to inject the fluid ( i.e. rocker panel, doors etc.


Any help from this forum would be greatly appreciated

Terry Nova Scotia Canada

[Redline_Me]

There should be a booklet that comes with the car, and it tells you at what milage to do what. I think it's a gray one.

[redbrass_ca]

Thank you very much . I did locate the grey book and it has most of the information in needed regarding maintenace

Terry

[AlmightyCamry777]

When i got my 2002 V6 it had about 60,000 miles. Here is what i do to all my used cars as soon as i get them:
-change oil and filter
-change air filter
-change fuel filter (thanks to this site i found out, my particular Camry, along with many others, has no seperate fuel filter - just a strainer in the fuel pump - that only gets changed when the fuel pump does. I'd find out if your car is the same before you try and change the fueul filter)
-automatic transmission fluid change/or manual gear oil change - (Some camrys need the transaxle drained seperately - its part of the tranny - mine doesnt need this though, yours might.) Use only the fluid it says to use on the dipstick, or the owners manual - yours may require Toyota TIV fluid, use no other kind.
-belt inspection. most easily done when you do -
-Brake inspection. Remove all 4 wheels, (with the right front wheel off its much easier to inspect the A/C belt behind the plastic cover, held on by some 10 mm bolts). I check pad thickness and rotor/drum condition, and calipers for leaks
-also i suck out the brake fluid reservoir and power steering , with a turkey baster. Discard old fluid, top up.

[redbrass_ca]

Dear AlmightyCamry777

Thanks for all the pointers. I did my oil change with OEM filter on the car yesterday. I replaced the air filter , checked the battery dH20 level. According to the onwer's manual supplement the automatic transmission fluid is not required before the 96000 Km mark which is still another 10000 km away. The car underneath is in very good condition but the hardware on the exhaust system is starting to corrode and particulartly near the front bend on the exhaust manifold.

The brakes have not been inspected as of yet but I was told they were redone in August of this year

I will be rustproofing the entire car underneath with AD3000 from Lloyds. What are some of the worst area underneath the car prone to rust and corrosion? Perhaps I should start a new thread under rustprotection

Thanks

Terry

[AlmightyCamry777]

Originally Posted by redbrass_ca

Dear AlmightyCamry777

Thanks for all the pointers. I did my oil change with OEM filter on the car yesterday. I replaced the air filter , checked the battery dH20 level. According to the onwer's manual supplement the automatic transmission fluid is not required before the 96000 Km mark which is still another 10000 km away. The car underneath is in very good condition but the hardware on the exhaust system is starting to corrode and particulartly near the front bend on the exhaust manifold.

The brakes have not been inspected as of yet but I was told they were redone in August of this year

I will be rustproofing the entire car underneath with AD3000 from Lloyds. What are some of the worst area underneath the car prone to rust and corrosion? Perhaps I should start a new thread under rustprotection

Thanks

Terry

I change my ATF every 30,000 miles (just a drain and refill, my tranny has a strainer, and i left it alone so far).
When it comes time to fix the exhaust it is probably better not to patch, (adding a section of pipe here and a section there) change the entire thing if you can, as in my experience patching the exhaust system is futile. Many times the cat(s) can be reused for a while though, they are the most expensive single pieces.

Toyota provides fairly good rust proofing from the factory but there's no reason not to do some extra as you are doing, when i lived in snow i found most cars rusted out on the body sections behind the front and rear wheels. On older cars they would often start rusting from the inside of these areas and before you knew it, a tiny pinhole of rust became a fist sized hole, because it was from the inside out.

I'm sure your rust proofing kit comes with instructions on where to apply it and how, the most important things i would do is to keep the body water drainage holes open and not plugged up, and rinse the salt and thawed mud off the underbody and wheel wells with high pressure water whenever the weather goes above freezing.