2005 4cyl SE - Front Brake Rotor replacement

[kenny1773]

This is the stupid question of the day

Is there any trick to removing the rotors from a 2005 camry SE 4 banger?

I have replaced rotors on RAVs, Corollas and older Camrys and I have never had a problem removing the old rotors. Usually a little whack with a rubber mallet breaks the rust sticking them on and then they come right off.

My current ones don't seem to want to budge.

The manual says to put matchmarks on front disc and the axle hub and then remove the disc. I see the match mark on the axle, but I don't see anything on the rotor to match it to,

Yes, I removed the caliper completely, I can't see anything else holding it on

Is there a trick to this model?? A search didn't reveal anything...

Thanks

[LE05]

Originally Posted by kenny1773

This is the stupid question of the day

Is there any trick to removing the rotors from a 2005 camry SE 4 banger?

I have replaced rotors on RAVs, Corollas and older Camrys and I have never had a problem removing the old rotors. Usually a little whack with a rubber mallet breaks the rust sticking them on and then they come right off.

My current ones don't seem to want to budge.

The manual says to put matchmarks on front disc and the axle hub and then remove the disc. I see the match mark on the axle, but I don't see anything on the rotor to match it to,

Yes, I removed the caliper completely, I can't see anything else holding it on

Is there a trick to this model?? A search didn't reveal anything...

Thanks

matchmarks are only really necessary if you plan on reusing the rotor. there's no tricks, most of the brake systems for Toyota's are largely the same. its probably just really rusted on... try spraying pb blaster between the rotor and hub surface. you'll notice that there are 2 threaded holes in the rotor hat... use two bolts and alternate threading them into those holes to help you lever the rotor off the hub. i believe the thread is M8*1.00 but i'm not sure.

[kenny1773]

Thanks for the confirmation

I have a bunch of random metric bolts from my motorcycle laying around and shockingly enough the exhaust header bolts from it fit in the rotor holes perfectly and they are allan head to I can put some force to them if necessary

I will report back later (and add the actual thread size), I just really didn't want to damage anything

Thanks again!

[MrSo0h0o]

i changed my rotors not too long ago... the trick is to whack it with a metal hammer(be gentle if you plan on reusing them). They are rusted onto the hub so you just need to give it a little muscle.

[kenny1773]

the bolts worked

Thread is M8x1.25

I had to put quite a bit of torque on them (evenly) to finally get them to pop. I did put some pb on the hub too and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

I have never had a rotor stick that hard

It wasn't going to work out for me today anyway, the pads I got are the wrong size. I was trying to take advantage of the Monroe rebate and I bought the CX906A model and it looks like my car really takes the CX908 (the 906 is about 1/2 inch too long)

If you look in Monroe's catalog for a 2005 SE

http://catalog.tenneco.com/monroe/brakeCatalog.do

you see this

All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - CX908 f:.NEC
All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - DX908 f:.NEC
SE & XLE - CX906A
SE & XLE - DX906A

f:.NEC = Noise Elimination Clips Included

I took that to mean the SE was the 906A

[LE05]

Originally Posted by kenny1773

the bolts worked

Thread is M8x1.25

I had to put quite a bit of torque on them (evenly) to finally get them to pop. I did put some pb on the hub too and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

I have never had a rotor stick that hard

It wasn't going to work out for me today anyway, the pads I got are the wrong size. I was trying to take advantage of the Monroe rebate and I bought the CX906A model and it looks like my car really takes the CX908 (the 906 is about 1/2 inch too long)

If you look in Monroe's catalog for a 2005 SE

http://catalog.tenneco.com/monroe/brakeCatalog.do

you see this

All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - CX908 f:.NEC
All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - DX908 f:.NEC
SE & XLE - CX906A
SE & XLE - DX906A

f:.NEC = Noise Elimination Clips Included

I took that to mean the SE was the 906A

i made that same mistake when ordering my akebono pads from rock auto. their description is not entirely accurate, 906A was something about "only models with rear drums"... but they were too big, 908 is the correct number for the pads.

[JohnGD]

Yeah, I think the bolts are better than a 5-lb persuader.

I checked the Akebono online catalog as well, they spec'ed the SE with 906A!!

I guess everybody thought Toyota put better, larger calipers (906A) on there when the SE/XLE actually got the cheaper, smaller 908!

Originally Posted by kenny1773

the bolts worked

Thread is M8x1.25

I had to put quite a bit of torque on them (evenly) to finally get them to pop. I did put some pb on the hub too and let it sit for about 10 minutes.

I have never had a rotor stick that hard

It wasn't going to work out for me today anyway, the pads I got are the wrong size. I was trying to take advantage of the Monroe rebate and I bought the CX906A model and it looks like my car really takes the CX908 (the 906 is about 1/2 inch too long)

If you look in Monroe's catalog for a 2005 SE

http://catalog.tenneco.com/monroe/brakeCatalog.do

you see this

All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - CX908 f:.NEC
All - Exc.05-06 SE & XLE - DX908 f:.NEC
SE & XLE - CX906A
SE & XLE - DX906A

f:.NEC = Noise Elimination Clips Included

I took that to mean the SE was the 906A

[trooplewis]

When you put the new rotors on, put a bit of hi-temp never-seize on the hub so you don't have that issue the next time you change them.

(and if you bought OEM rotors, you will have to change them again)

[kenny1773]

I called Monroe today and they seem to have really good customer service.

The tech support guy I spoke with said that every major manufacturer lists the 906A as the correct part for the 2005 SE. I asked if they took into the consideration 4cyl vs 6 cyl and he said he didn't know. I mentioned an online toyota forum where others said they had the same issue with the 906A part # and he said he would send a request to engineering to confirm the models and they would update their page if they discovered a problem.

Then he wanted me to return the pads to where I bought them and get the 908s. Well, I am beyond the 30 day return period, plus I opened the pads and got one all dirty trying to install it. I told him the retailer wasn't going to take them back in their current condition.

He transferred me over to warranty support, they wanted a copy of the receipt (which I sent) and they said they would send me out the 908s.

Here is to hoping I get them by this weekend

[kenny1773]

Originally Posted by trooplewis

When you put the new rotors on, put a bit of hi-temp never-seize on the hub so you don't have that issue the next time you change them.

(and if you bought OEM rotors, you will have to change them again)

Good idea, a friend of mine said the same thing to me today when I told him what happened.

I didn't buy OEM rotors. I love Toyota and Toyota parts as much as the next long term Toyota owner. HOWEVER, Toyota OEM brake rotors suck. I never get more than 35k-40k miles out of them before they 'warp'. I have much better luck with the Raybestos PG or AT models (I got the AT this time, I have the PG on my wife's RAV4)

[kenny1773]

Just an update, Monroe (Tenneco) actually ended up having pretty crappy customer service. After they told me they would swap the pads, they backed out. Luckily Amazon is an awesome retailer and did the return for me.

I installed the CX908 pads and they were a perfect fit for my 2005 SE 4 banger.

I have the Raybestos Advanced Technology Rotors and the Monroe CX908 pads and everything seems great so far. I only have about 100 miles on them (followed Monroe's break in guide) and they are quiet and stop as well as the OEM setup did. I am not able to tell if it's any better, it could be, I am just saying it is at least as good.

I will post back after I have some miles. For the money spent, this is a killer combo. Got the rotors and pads from Amazon with free shipping.

[JohnGD]

Raybestos makes the better aftermarket rotors. Some competitors actually have thinner discs. I wonder if that's what Toyota has been using since 2002, when they started having rotor problems.

Originally Posted by kenny1773

Good idea, a friend of mine said the same thing to me today when I told him what happened.

I didn't buy OEM rotors. I love Toyota and Toyota parts as much as the next long term Toyota owner. HOWEVER, Toyota OEM brake rotors suck. I never get more than 35k-40k miles out of them before they 'warp'. I have much better luck with the Raybestos PG or AT models (I got the AT this time, I have the PG on my wife's RAV4)

[kenny1773]

Just giving an update since I had just searched for this thread.

The Monroe pads and Raybestos rotors are working great. Braking really does appear to be better than with the OEM parts.

My only complaint is a little extra dust on the front wheels that wasn't there with the OEM parts.

Brakes are dead quiet.

Still only $30 shipped

Amazon

Amazon

rotors are $38 each shipped

Amazon

Amazon

[kenny1773]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Raybestos makes the better aftermarket rotors. Some competitors actually have thinner discs. I wonder if that's what Toyota has been using since 2002, when they started having rotor problems.

I had problems with the Rotors on my 2001 RAV 4 and also on my 1995 Camry V6 LE

I think Toyota has always had crappy rotors.

[ScrooYoo]

I had the same problem replacing the front rotors on my Gen 5. At one point I got so frustrated I wanted to slam the rotor with a 12lb sledgehammer! lol. It took me over an hour of spray/wait and banging with a rubber mallet to get them off.

It seems like a quirk with the gen 5 camrys. The rotors seem to get baked on somehow.