DIY Front rotor replacement and Centric ring install

[trooplewis]

I replaced my OEM front rotors today with Raybestos ones after having them warp for the 2nd time. Pretty easy job, and my pads looked like they still had 90% left so I did not replace them. Normally I'd say replace them if they are anywhere close to 50%, but the Toyota ones are low-dust, don't squeak, and have no real issues, it's their rotors that suck.

And before anyone says anything about why the pads should be replaced if the rotors are warped, think first, OK? Warped rotors will not make your pads wear unevenly...if you are logical you'll figure it out.

Tools:
Jack, jackstand, tire chocks, #17 socket, Brake-cleaning fluid, coathanger.
Yeah that's really about all you need. Maybe a #14 socket for the bolts that bust the rotor off the hub...Hi-temp Neverseize if you want to use it.

Oh yeah, and the big disclaimer
These are BRAKES we're talking about, you need them to stop your car. If you are unsure of what you are doing, have a professional fix/repair your brakes for you. Always tighten calipers and lugnuts to factory specs, don't smoke under your car, save most of the beer for when you are done!


1) Slightly loosen the lugnuts


2) Chock both sides of the opposite rear wheel



3) jack up the car, support with jackstand as well




4) remove lug nuts and tire, you end up with this

You will be using the #17 socket on the bolt with the white arrow pointing at it, as well as one below it that you cannot see



5) Have the coathanger handy, in fact wrap it around the spring above before you need it, that way you just have to connect the end to throught the rotor. You do NOT want to let the rotor hang from the brake line.

After removing the 2 bolts behind the rotor, hang it on the coil spring



My rotors did not come off easily, even though it is a So Calif car and they were taken off by Toyota just 12,000 miles ago.

Thread two bolts into the holes on the rotor and turn them in to break the rotor loos from the rusty hub

[trooplewis]

You will hear the rotor pop loose, just take it off.

Now you see this:

And at this point I added a LITTLE bit of hi-temp anti-seize to the rusty part of the hub, then I WIPED most of it off with a rag so none would bleed out when the rotors heat up when driving. USE JUST A LITTLE IF YOU DO THIS!! Wipe most of what you use OFF.

Note the thickness of my old pads, which I kept and reused. Probably 90% left



OK, one other thing I like to do while I'm in there. There are 3 boots on each side that you don't want to ever wear out!
I sprayed them with some 303 Protectant. If you don't have that, use Vinylex. DOn't use Armorall, please.
That should add some extra life to the rubber, don't get any on the rotors!

Here are the boots



SPRAY OFF THE NEW ROTOR WITH BRAKE CLEANER, as it has a light coating of grease on it. THIS IS IMPORTANT!!!

Push it on and use a lug nut to hold it in place while you press the caliper and pads back over it and put the bolts back in the back.

New rotor in place

[trooplewis]

OK, where was I?
The rotor is in place, tighten the caliper bolts to factory specs.

At this point I installed Centric Rings for my Eagle chromes, as the dealer (wrongly) blamed my wheels and lack of centrics as the cause of rotor warpage.



The centric ring goes in as seen here



Now just put the wheel back on, cinch the lug nits but don't try to torque them yet.

Remove jackstand, lower jack, make sure you have removed the coathanger from the coil spring!

Now tighten the lugs to factory specs.

Repeat everything on the other side...


Test drive car gently, brake gently for the first block or two, Then test drie car normally if everything feels right and no unusual sounds or grabbing/pulling to side.

For the first 100 miles, try to avoid sudden stops except in an emergency. After 100 miles, re-torque lugnuts, drive car normally.

Congratulations, you just spend $100 and got what the dealer would have charged you $259 (or more) for.

It actually took longer to edit/download the photos and do this write-up than it took to do one side of the car. It is about a 25 minute job at a leisurely pace, per side.

[JohnGD]

Nice rotors! Those must be the Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors.

However regarding the pads. According to Toyota TSB 0169-09, the pads appear to be the source of rotor warpage problems.

T-SB-0169-09 Rev. 1 June 4, 2009 Brake Vibration

[trooplewis]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

Nice rotors! Those must be the Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors.

However regarding the pads. According to Toyota TSB 0169-09, the pads appear to be the source of rotor warpage problems.

T-SB-0169-09 Rev. 1 June 4, 2009 Brake Vibration

Wonderful. That makes no sense whatsoever, but OK, so I'll have to get a set of pads and complete the how-to.
The pads I have were the ones that Toyota replaced for me, but that was about a year ago.

ANd yes, those are Raybestos Advance Technology rotors. It's nice that they paint the parts that usually get crappy looking and rusty.

[coontai]

know the size of th bolts you used? antiseize on the studs can change the proper torque values. nice write up btw

[trooplewis]

Originally Posted by coontai

know the size of th bolts you used? antiseize on the studs can change the proper torque values. nice write up btw

Not sure what the size of the bolts were, I just happen to have a couple in my garage that were the right size and pitch.

Yes, if you use anti-seize on your lugs ( I put just a touch of it on a couple of threads at the tip of the stud) you should torque at the top of the recommended range or a few pounds over.

If you don't remove your wheels much, probably best to not use anti-seize. I probably check the torque on my lugs once every couple of months.

[sctruck]

Why dont you give your DIY the specs it needs. Torque specs?

[trooplewis]

Figured you have to look some stuff up based on your specific car, just so the liability is yours, not mine!

[JohnGD]

If they were updated pads and have the edge code mentioned in the TSB you should be OK.

Otherwise I'd just get aftermarket Akebono ProAct ceramics.

Originally Posted by trooplewis

Wonderful. That makes no sense whatsoever, but OK, so I'll have to get a set of pads and complete the how-to.
The pads I have were the ones that Toyota replaced for me, but that was about a year ago.

ANd yes, those are Raybestos Advance Technology rotors. It's nice that they paint the parts that usually get crappy looking and rusty.

[thedaveking]

know the size of th bolts you used?

I replaced gen3 sedan front rotors today. To break the rotors loose took bolts 8mm dia, 1.25 pitch, 16-20mm long. The radiator top hold-down bracket bolts were a perfect fit so I stole them to do it. They were a little too soft though and the threads got mashed up pretty bad in the process so I replaced them afterward.

[darksparkz]

Good DIY!

Just gotta be careful trying to get the rotor off with the two bolts, if the car is old, it's possible that it may be very rusty and the threads inside the two holds are damaged.

[AlmightyCamry777]

Originally Posted by coontai

know the size of th bolts you used? antiseize on the studs can change the proper torque values. nice write up btw

Very nice write up and very smart of you to use anti sieze on the hub before putting the rotor back on! I also use grease or anti sieze on the hub between my aluminum wheels and the hub so they dont stick either.

However he is right - it is better to keep the anti sieze OFF the wheel lugs if you can - hopefully you torque the wheels on yourself, (no torque sticks with all that anti sieze - torque wrench) you should probably torque them a few lbs less with all that anti sieze.

Also beware if the wheel ever gets changed by somebody besides you (a shop) all that anti sieze PLUS mechanic with air impact wrench could equal a torn-out stud for you - thats all, something i noticed that might be an issue.

[valeoray]

Sorry, what size bolts were used to remove the old rotor?

Thanks

[trooplewis]

Originally Posted by AlmightyCamry777

However he is right - it is better to keep the anti sieze OFF the wheel lugs if you can - hopefully you torque the wheels on yourself, (no torque sticks with all that anti sieze - torque wrench) you should probably torque them a few lbs less with all that anti sieze.

I do a few lbs MORE when anti-seize is used, not less.