Camry does not start

[Chuck02541]

Hi, new here. My Camry died, if anyone here had a similar issue, please tell me how you solved it.

Car: Camry 2005, 4 cylinder, under 40k.

Here is what happened:
1) Car worked fine, no warning lights, or bad starts.
2) Suddenly, it does not start. No cranking, no A/C, no headlights, but dashboard still lights up. I did not check windows or radio.
3) I keep trying to start and dashboard lights start to dim, until only check engine light remains.
4) Tow tries to give me a jump and an alarm sounds when he tries to start.
5) Next morning I check and see that battery reads 12.5V, battery contacts are clean, and alternator fuse is blown.

Questions:
1) Is the ALT fuse the cause, symptom of a larger problem, or a side effect of an improper jumpstart?
*Would the dashboard lights work and then slowly dim after a blown ALT fuse?
*Why did the alarm sound during jump start?
2) What could cause a no-start condition in a relatively new car?
3) I disconnected the battery for several hours. Are the diagnostic codes from the original fault still in the memory?
4) Any advice on what I should ask the mechanic?
5) If the problem is serious (like ECM needs to be replaced) and I want to get coverage under Certified Used Car Warranty, the emissions control warranty, or a goodwill gesture from Toyota Corp should I go to a dealer or a private mechanic?

Thank you for any help.

[gdanaher]

Originally Posted by Chuck02541

Questions:
1) Is the ALT fuse the cause, symptom of a larger problem, or a side effect of an improper jumpstart? The blown fuse is likely the result of an inept jump start attempt.
*Would the dashboard lights work and then slowly dim after a blown ALT fuse? The alternator is just sitting there doing zip if the engine isn't running. You need a new battery.
*Why did the alarm sound during jump start? Probably the same reason that the fuse to the alternator blew. Too much amperage through that circuit. He should have attached the postive to your battery and the negative to a solid piece of the engine or frame for the ground.
2) What could cause a no-start condition in a relatively new car? First, you don't have a relatively new car, but that being said, a battery can fail at the factory, after a week of service or after 10 years of service. If you have the original then you got your use out of it. Go get a new battery. If the problem persists, and it won't, then obviously something else is wrong, but the battery is due to fail, so start there.
3) I disconnected the battery for several hours. Are the diagnostic codes from the original fault still in the memory? What diagnostic codes? You didn't mention that the car's check engine light was on. No light, then o code.
4) Any advice on what I should ask the mechanic?You go to the doctor with a pimple and fear you have brain cancer. Relax, chill out, and buy a new battery. Thank me later and make a nice donation to JNF.
5) If the problem is serious (like ECM needs to be replaced) and I want to get coverage under Certified Used Car Warranty, the emissions control warranty, or a goodwill gesture from Toyota Corp should I go to a dealer or a private mechanic? None of the above. Buy a battery.

Thank you for any help.

[Chuck02541]

But I measured the voltage on the battery next morning. It was 12.5V.
The car was driven for 5 miles just before the failure.
No battery warning light.
There was no cranking noise.

[Chuck02541]

I managed to retrieve the diagnostic codes.

P0110 Intake Air Temp Circuit
P0100 Mass or Air Volume Circuit
P0115 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit
P0120 Throttle Pedal Position – I might have pressed the pedal with the engine off
P1600 ECM Battery Malfunction – Probably due to blown fuse

So the errors are in the IAT, MAF (they share one sensor body?), ECT sensors. Or in just one of them and the other errors are just side effects.

1) Can a broken sensor cause a no-start condition? Maybe the dashboard dimming was caused by keeping the key in START and discharging the battery.

2) Three broken sensors are unlikely. Could the ECM be broken?

3) Maybe all of these errors are meaningless and were caused by trying to start the engine?

[gdanaher]

None of this would explain why the engine would not turn over. 12.5 volts on the battery is nothing to write home about if when you turn the key it drops like a rock, and you haven't tested that. Before you go out and look for expensive fixes, find, buy, borrow, or otherwise acquire another battery and then try to start the car.

[BlackCamSe]

if the doors were locked wen the battery died, the alarm will sound as soon as you try to jump it or put a new battery in.

[Chuck02541]

Driver's door was open during jumpstart, but door locks may have been closed.

Nothing can be done before ALT fuse is replaced. I tried it myself, but I am afraid to break the fuse box. Is there a detailed diagram of how to take it apart?

[Chuck02541]

Should I take this to a dealer or an independent mechanic?

If I take this to a dealer, how do I get them to test if the part is broken before asking to replace something?

[Mike Gerber]

It's possible the battery went dead and/or is just weak and that the tow truck driver crossed the jumper cables when he tried to jump the car. That would blow the alternator fuse. I would replace the alternator fuse before doing anything else. There is no DIY diagram of how to take it apart that I am aware of. Most alternator fuses are bolted in from the side of the fusebox with an 8MM hex head bolt. You usually have to unbolt the fusebox to replace it. Disconnect the battery before attempting to replace that fuse. Disconenct the negative battery terminal first and reconnect it last. Also clean the battery cable terminal ends and the battery posts themselves while they are off. Put it back together and try to start the car.

Mike

[Chuck02541]

My problem is with taking the fusebox apart. Do I take off the whole box or just the engine room relay block?

The relay block is bolted to the wheel well, has a clip going into the side of car frame, has a wire connection on one side, and a bunch of clips one all sides.

Where do I start? The wire is easy to remove.
1) Can I remove the relay block without unbolting the rest of the fusebox?
2) Do I start with the wheel well?
3) Do I start with the big clip going into the side wall?
4) How is the wheel well bolt fastened, is there a nut on the other side that will fall off?

[gdanaher]

No disrespect implied or intended, but the nature of your questions suggests that you need to find someone to give you a hand, or have it hauled to Pep Boys, or something. If you could get it running with a hot battery, you don't need the alternator for the few minutes it might take to drive across town. If you can't move it, disconnect the battery as previously stated, take the thing apart and replace the fuse. Likely nobody here can give you detailed instructions because nobody here has had this problem. Those of us with a little background and experience wouldn't be afraid to jump in and fix it, but I fully appreciate the position you are in with no experience and looking at a job that seems impossible to complete. Find a neighbor, parent, or someone to give you a hand.

[Yazovets]

I had this "symptom" earlier this year. It was cured with a new battery.

[PRINCESS PEACH]

try banging on your starter. seriously lol

[gdanaher]

His battery failed and the situation was complicated by a jerk/tow truck operator who didn't know how to jump a car and somehow managed to run the positive through the alternator wiring instead of the battery, and then when the key was turned to engage the starter, well all that amperage going through the alternator just blew that fuse. Now he doesn't know how to replace the fuse and wants to angst over a litany of potential problems, when all he really needs is a new battery. Hope he can find someone with a little maturity and experience, and a nice set of tools to go with it. This problem just isn't that big a deal, but if you have never handled an end wrench and an ohm meter, well, things can appear to be daunting.

[LE05]

Originally Posted by Chuck02541

My problem is with taking the fusebox apart. Do I take off the whole box or just the engine room relay block?

The relay block is bolted to the wheel well, has a clip going into the side of car frame, has a wire connection on one side, and a bunch of clips one all sides.

Where do I start? The wire is easy to remove.
1) Can I remove the relay block without unbolting the rest of the fusebox?
2) Do I start with the wheel well?
3) Do I start with the big clip going into the side wall?
4) How is the wheel well bolt fastened, is there a nut on the other side that will fall off?

i once blew the alternator fuse, accidentally shorted out the pos lead of the alternator to the oil dipstick... so i have experience replacing it.

To answer your questions:
1) No
2) Sure
3) Well, you can't really undo the big clip with bolts still holding the fusebox in.
4) No nut, bolt just screws into the metal.

First things first... it is far easier to remove the entire fuse box (unbolt all the bolts/wires, undo all the clips) to take it apart.

Always take the battery out before doing any type of electrical work!

1. Start by unbolting the wire on the relay block
2. Unbolt the three bolts that hold the fusebox to the body of the car.
3. Undo the big clip
4. Undo the clip(s) holding the wire harnesses to the fuse box.
5. Fusebox should be free to separate from the body of the car
6. Seperate the relay half from the fuse box.
7. Pry open the clips holding the other half together. I can't explain how, you'll just have to figure it out.
8. Unbolt 120A Alternator Fuse
9. Replace Fuse
10. Put everything back together.

FYI, i don't believe there was anything in the service manual on how to replace the alternator fuse... so i had to pretty much figure everything out on my own. hope that helps, but i honestly think you're in way over your head. you should tow the car to a dealership or an independent mechanic.