5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I've been thinking to get HID for my LE 07, but I won't do a retrofit since it takes too much time and money. I'll use the halogen projectors with the squirrel spotter covered. I've gone through many HID threads on here, but I haven't found the comparison between halogen and HID conversion kit. There are a few posts about it, but the pictures got deleted .
1/ My question is HID in the original halogen housing much better than halogen bulbs? I know the conversion kit won't be as nice as a retrofit, but some TN member rate it 8/10 (HID kit/ retrofit), so I'm okay with it. I'll use 4500K to get the best lighting.
2/ How does 35W HID compare to 55W HID in halogen housing?
3/ Is the relay harness worth getting if I only use 35W HID? I think it's a must with 55W HID.
4/ This is what I'll use to cover the squirrel spotter https://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.5101 it holds up to 300C. The good thing about this tape is that it's brown and transparent; If I cover 2-3 layers of this tape on the squirrel spotter, there maybe some light goes through and it will light up street signs, the functionality of the squirrel spotter is still remain, but I won't blind others. If it is doesn't work I'll use JB Weld with a piece of aluminum.
There are alot of members here with hid kits in their halogen H11 projectors and like them. I am more of a retrofit person myself. Plus the higher you go over 4300k to 5000k you may have the nice blue looking lights but you start losing lumens or as someone else said more usable light. Stick to 4300k to 5000k
Also do a search and see for yourself.
Glenn
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2009 Camry SE MODS:
Blacked Out Headlights with MDX D2S Retrofit,TSX-R Clear Lens, 85122+D2S Bulbs, G2 Red Painted Calipers, W.T.Floor Liners, Rosen Navi. GEN6.5 Chrome Wheels, XD Digital 35 watt ballasts, H11 Wire Harness, Megan fstb.
In my opinion, there is a significant improvement when moving to a HID setup even if you retain the stock projectors (and supposing you do the squirrel spotter mod).
My Camry will soon be 3 years old and the HID conversion is an upgrade I wouldn't part with.
It is best to do a full retrofit but for me it's too expensive and time consuming for a marginal improvement over HID in stock projectors. If you can afford it, go for it. Else, just do a HID conversion.
Stay between 4000 and 5000K for maximum light output. People might think 6000K looks cool but it's a waste because you're not putting out more lumens than 55W halogens at that color temperature. Higher Kelvin-rated kits are even more useless and ricey.
Always use a relay harness. 55W HID kits are illegal and will cause massive glare. Pick up a decent 35W ~4500K H11 kit, relay harness and you're done.
__________________ 2008 Camry Hybrid | Magnetic Grey on Grey Leather | Bi-Xenon H1 4300K Retrofit | Italian Hertz Sound System (dash 4" EM 100, front 6.5" ECX 165, rear 6" x 9" ECX 690, 10" ES 250D sub in custom trunk enclosure, HDP5 5-channel amp, 1320W total power) | 4-sensor Rear Parking System | 20% Metallic Tint | Weathertech Floorliners | 17" ASA AR1 Rims | Toyo Garit KX (winter) | Toyo Versado LX II (summer)
1-yes, when I had to swap back to halogens after putting HID bulbs into my housing, I noticed the difference immediately. Its a night and day difference between the two
2-I believe a 6k 55W kit is similar to a 5k 35W kit. The more power it has the lower the temp range that shows or something like that...
3-I had to use a harnass on my 35W kit so I doubt it really matters unless you find a brand that doesn't need one. I use it just in case.
4-I used JB weld. It was easier for me and since I used a Canada Dry can, it shows green when the lights are off. I really liked that
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1996 Beige Lexus ES300
2010 Blue Ribbon Metallic Camry LE
few things to clear up here. best is 4300k to 5k. anything above 6k and you might as well stick with halogens.
to be safe you should get a relay for both 35w and 55w. 55w is about 40% or so brighter than 35w BUT it's not worth it. reason being is 55w means more risk of the chrome on the bowl(back half of projector) melting or bubbling. aftermarket bulbs burn way hotter than oem bulbs so thats why there is this risk. even with a retrofit it's considered suicide to use 55w ballasts and aftermarket bulbs. only oem bulbs are ok with 55w ballasts.
another thing is a retrofit is a big improvement from hid kit in our stock projectors. they are wider, more intense, better spread, etc...
also retrofits are very expensive... atleast not anymore. wait a few days for rtagn to post up his retro with how much everything cost him and his results. and he paid someone to do it too....
yea i believe it was at start it gets a bit hot but afterwords its cooler. so yes. still nothing is better temp wise than oem ballasts and bulbs. someone did test on hid planet with different bulbs running on same ballasts and oem was always a few degrees cooler.
And also you know when you put the switch in AUTO, and when it's dark the lights will turn on even when your key is in ON position, and when you crank it up, it'll go off and back on, is it bad for HIDs to do that?
I am speaking from personal experience. I have 4300K right now and it doesn't look much different than Halogen. My eye can't measure every single candelas but by eye balling I don't see much different than stock Halogen.
I did have 5000K before and it look 'white'. It was different. Of course to have the best of both world it is better to stay around 5000K. I'm tempted to get 5000K again but I can't justify to myself to spend that much. I really hardly drive at night.
GT-R, 35W should be alright. 55W run a much higher risk of 'smokin'.
About HID on during ignition, I think it reduces the life of the HID (not sure which part take a greater hit). But it seems even OEM HID don't really care about this issue.
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