5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
thank you for reading this post. My girlfriend owns a 2007 Camry LE (4 cylinder). She commutes from Indio (Palm Spring) to Orange County every other weekends (2 year and 4 months with 82,000 miles on it!!!). She had run over blown truck tire 1 time on the 91West and had flat tire and another time on the I-10 East and just one time 3 days ago. Can the shocks caused the a/c electronic go hay wire ? Her a/c doesn't work anymore about 1 month ago, it stuck on hot and vent option only that means it flow fast only driving on freeway. In addition, I pulled a dirty air cabin filter out and discard it. Luckily that we are in winter season so that is not the main concern right now but summer should be around the block. So, I'm trying to fix it for her and save her some $$$.
Does any know what the first step trying to figure out. Can the problem be 1 of the 3 FAN relay in the engine compartment? The fuses under the driver side compartment are all in perfect contact shape. Is there any fuse that I check know of but have missed? Thank you.
Can it be the blower motor resistor (aka module)? Or can it be the blower motor itself the problem because I didn't change cabin filter since she bought the car; that could have overworked the motor? In addition, can it be the electronic connections of the 3 manual a/c control knobs that is broken from physical car shock.
--I'm going to check the voltage across the connection, also the 3 fan relay in the engine compartment. Then I will hopefully not break the blower motor fan by connecting it directly to the battery to rule out its problem. Thank you for your helps and replies.
thank you for reading this post. My girlfriend owns a 2007 Camry LE (4 cylinder). She commutes from Indio (Palm Spring) to Orange County every other weekends (2 year and 4 months with 82,000 miles on it!!!). She had run over blown truck tire 1 time on the 91West and had flat tire and another time on the I-10 East and just one time 3 days ago. Can the shocks caused the a/c electronic go hay wire ? Her a/c doesn't work anymore about 1 month ago, it stuck on hot and vent option only that means it flow fast only driving on freeway. In addition, I pulled a dirty air cabin filter out and discard it. Luckily that we are in winter season so that is not the main concern right now but summer should be around the block. So, I'm trying to fix it for her and save her some $$$.
Does any know what the first step trying to figure out. Can the problem be 1 of the 3 FAN relay in the engine compartment? The fuses under the driver side compartment are all in perfect contact shape. Is there any fuse that I check know of but have missed? Thank you.
Can it be the blower motor resistor (aka module)? Or can it be the blower motor itself the problem because I didn't change cabin filter since she bought the car; that could have overworked the motor? In addition, can it be the electronic connections of the 3 manual a/c control knobs that is broken from physical car shock.
--I'm going to check the voltage across the connection, also the 3 fan relay in the engine compartment. Then I will hopefully not break the blower motor fan by connecting it directly to the battery to rule out its problem. Thank you for your helps and replies.
The first place to look will be the 50 amp fuse marked “HTR” in the fuse box in the engine compartment. If that were open the blower motor will be dead. This fuse is tied directly to the battery through the wiring.
Can the problem be 1 of the 3 FAN relay in the engine compartment?
The blower motor does not have any relays in the power circuit. The blower motor is operated by signals from the A/C amplifier.
Disclaimer, if you don’t understand any of the following procedures, please locate someone who does. If you only use a volt meter AND a low current test light (a led is the best, but is polarity sensitive) no damage will occur. Do the following tests at your own risk, I am not liable for your errors.
The blower motor speed is controlled using various duty ratios.
Duty Ratio:
The duty ratio is the ratio of the blower motor ON time (A) to the total of the blower motor ON and OFF time (A + B).
The blower motor controller controls the blower motor speed.
The red wire on the motor [pin 2 on the motor connector] is the speed control signal to the driver transistors in the motor itself. If this wire has short width pulses with a long space between the pulses, the fan speed will be very slow. If this wire has long width pulses with a short space between the pulses, the fan speed will be very fast. (A pulse is voltage applied, a space is no voltage applied, a short pulse means the power is applied for a very short time, and a long pulse means it is on for a longer time.)
This is where the term “1 Cycle” comes in, a cycle is a point at the start of the event to the next time it hits the same point.
A good example of the term would be:
When the power is on for 2 seconds out of ten seconds, it equals a 20% duty ratio within that 1 cycle.
When the power is on for 5 seconds out of ten seconds, it equals a 50% duty ratio within that 1 cycle.
When the power is on for 8 seconds out of ten seconds, it equals a 80% duty ratio within that 1 cycle.
The formula for this is Duty Ratio = A / A+B * 100% (A= Pulse width in time, B = Space width in time)
If you were to use a volt meter / tester light, unplug the blower motor connector, connect the test meter / light to pin 2 [red wire] and ground pin 1 [white with black stripe wire] and if the blower speed knob were at the low speed settings, you should see the pulses in the tester, with the ignition switch on. Caution:
1)DO NOT short any pins.
2)Use a low current tester, a led is best.
If you see the pulses and the 50 amp fuse is good, then verifying +12 volts on pin 3 [solid white wire] to pin 1 [white with black tracer] and both points check good, replace the blower motor.
If the pulses are not on the red wire, it will be time to take it to the dealer for repair, as it could be the control unit or the A/C amplifier, which the dealer intelligent tester tool can identify through the fault codes.
A set of manuals can be found here:
*** See CamryStuff dot com for info about service manuals. ***
The fuse is the cheapest then the blower motor.
Hope it is the fuse. Good luck.
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
Last edited by TrailDust; 12-26-2009 at 12:56 PM.
Reason: FSM link removed as per forum rules.
i will go the step by step from your replies. I think it is the resistor, i square last night when I turned the a/c to maximum with engine running, it ran but I was afraid that i can worsen the problem so i promptly turned it off.
thank you guys for helping. I just dropped by the Toyota Dealer, they tech guy said it's probably a clogged blower motor since I haven't changed and clean it for the whole 82,000 miles or 2.5 years. I'm hoping it is so I just can just drop the blower and clean it. I'm checking out the manual site. Happy new year guys thanks again.
ok guys wahoo! the fan works when i remove it out of the housing (i removed 3 small bolts from the house) and dropped the fan. It would run when I turn the power knob the far to the left and holding the fan as in the pictures below. I think there is a clog in the whole system. Please show me more step. I'm anxious to fix it. Thank you again.
Updates: fan would run then would not run. It's a 50/50 change that the fan would run for each key on/off. Once I got it to run while holding it tight and sitting on the passenger side, it would initially run really fast when i turn the knob all the way, it makes a strong air stream but then gradually slows down within 5 seconds to 10 seconds then would continue to really slow speed, i don't know that's the set speed on this fan or not. THank you
Last edited by camryguyOC714; 12-26-2009 at 10:02 PM.
Reason: more information
updates at 12 AM. After milking or squeezing the Blower Motor Connector
the blower motor would run every time I turn the knob to full power and slowly turn it down, it worked all the way down to the lowest power. I think it is the blower motor connector has a loose connection, but the motor has run every time about 5 times i turn the turn the a/c control knob after I try squeezing it to a new position. It is running now blow heated air and cooled air too when I changed the hot to cold control knob, therefore cold option knob is working too for my girl friend this summer . Thank you very much guys for helping me.
Should I go to the dealer and buy a new Blower Motor Connector and replace it tomorrow? Merry Christmas and Happy new year .
Last edited by camryguyOC714; 12-27-2009 at 02:47 AM.
updates at 12 AM. After milking or squeezing the Blower Motor Connector
the blower motor would run every time I turn the knob to full power and slowly turn it down, it worked all the way down to the lowest power. I think it is the blower motor connector has a loose connection, but the motor has run every time about 5 times i turn the turn the a/c control knob after I try squeezing it to a new position. It is running now blow heated air and cooled air too when I changed the hot to cold control knob, therefore cold option knob is working too for my girl friend this summer . Thank you very much guys for helping me.
Should I go to the dealer and by a new Blower Motor Connector and replace it tomorrow? Merry Christmas and Happy new year .
I don't how good your dealer is, but I have corrected problems with connectors before.
First remove the 50 amp fuse.
Then clean the pins and sockets, with contact cleaner.
Reconnect the connector, test for proper operation buy twisting pulling & pushing.
If it remains operating, without any changes in speed. Then apply a thin coat of "Dow 7" dielectric grease to each pin, coating them well, it prevents air and moisture from getting on the pins stopping the corrosion of the contacts.
If the cleaning don't work, exercise (push and pull) each pin/wire individually, to isolate which contact is at fault. The dealer should have repair pins in stock, which are pins with the wires attached and are spliced into the harness. The overall electrical service manual has instructions on how to remove the pins from the connectors.
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
i couldn't remove the fusable link fuse in the engine compartment, they are so hard to pull out. How can I remove it and check it the linked fuse (the 2 bus bar)without breaking it ?
thanks again
i couldn't remove the fusable link fuse in the engine compartment, they are so hard to pull out. How can I remove it and check it the linked fuse (the 2 bus bar)without breaking it ?
thanks again
It may be tough to pull, it is a 50 amp fuse, needs to be a tight fit for low contact resistance. On a side note, you stated that the motor runs great sometimes, which would eliminate the 50 amp fuse and that area.
The +12 volt source from the battery at the blower connector should be a socket connection on the harness end, surrounded with the connector shell plastic, kind of hard to short, this is a part of good engineering design. Clean them if needed, just be careful, spray cleaners work good here, without touching the contacts or shorting issues.
On the connectors at the blower motor, check for discoloration of the pin(s) or the insulation, which will tell you the wire or contact is heating up and which one it is. Get that contact replaced.
The red wire is low current drive and will not display any of the heating effects. On that set of contacts it will be either a loose fitting connection or a corrosion issue.
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
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