Mob1 Extended Perf (15k mi) oil in gen 5 2az-fe - good?

[Sella Turcica]

Two quick questions I have, hopefully without this becoming a thread about the properties of oil particles at -20C. My camry now has 93k mi.

1) Changed from regular oil to Mobil1 Syn EP + new filter in my 2.4L camry. I warmed it up and let it drain for probably an hour. Should I (absolutely) do an "intermediate interval" oil change anyway, to get old stuff out? In other words, an early oil change.

2) The change interval is 15k. Should I actually believe that, or change it at something like 10k? I want to keep this car to 200k mi....

Thanks guys

[PRINCESS PEACH]

Your oil change should be good to go.

If its not synthetic (conventional/partly synthetic), change your oil every 3K. If it is synthetic, change it every 5-7K.

I'd just follow the owners manual on the oil.

[gdanaher]

Under no circumstances do you want to let an old engine go 15000 miles between oil changes. PM me for a good long true story.

[rickdogg]

Toyota motors tend to run strong for a long time if maintained by changing the oil every 3-5K. If you really want to know if the Mobil 1 Oil in question is good for the 2AZ-fe at that particular change interval, you can send oil samples to the following companies for analysis:

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/

http://www.dysonanalysis.com/index.html

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This thread contains a collection of Used Oil Analysis (UOA) results from the VQ35DE engine, along with general engine oil data, designed to help 350Z owners decide which oil brands and weights are best for their needs. The first part of this thread is laid out in a Q&A style format, which is continuously updated. So, please read through the Q&A section before posting a question, as it’s probably already been answered. The remaining pages contain discussion and contribution from members, many of whom have selflessly shared their UOA results in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has contributed their UOA result for the benefit of the Z community.

So what’s the best engine oil to use in my VQ35DE?
There’s not one “best” oil. There are several oils that have consistently performed well in the VQ engine, according to Used Oil Analysis results. Select one of these oils to use, and avoid the poorer performing oils.

What is a Used Oil Analysis (UOA), and where/how/why is it done?
It is an analysis of used engine oil performed at a lab. Customers collect some of their used oil, usually during the oil change, and send it in to the lab to be analyzed. Two of the most popular testing labs are:
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/
http://www.dysonanalysis.com/index.html
After running several tests on the oil sample sent to them, the lab sends the customer a data sheet which reveals the condition of the oil and any problems occurring within the engine. The amount of engine wear that took place while using the oil is related to the amount of certain metals found in the used oil. The metals found in the used oil come from engine wear, and an oil that offers good protection will have low numbers of these metal particles in it. A UOA will also show how much the oil sheared down with use, and if it is safe to use it or a longer oil change interval. A Used Oil Analysis also highlights the condition of the engine and identifies any potential problems that may be developing by detecting the presence of any dirt, anti-freeze, sludge or fuel in the oil.

Where are the UOA results posted?
The UOA results are collected in comparison charts attached below. The charts list the average result for each oil tested, including the amount of engine wear that took place using the oil, the oil’s ability to resist shear, and the amount of active additive left in the oil. The individual UOA results are posted throughout this thread as they are submitted by members. Only current formulations of oil are included in the comparison charts attached below.

How do I read the attached UOA Comparison Charts?
The name and weight of each oil tested is at the top of the comparison charts. The column below it shows the average mileage on that particular oil, followed by any amount of make-up oil added during the average oil change interval. This is important to look at when comparing oils, as an oil that has just 1,000 miles on it when tested will obviously fare better than an oil that has 9,000 miles on it when tested, even if it is not really a better performing oil. The next part (The Grey Section) of the column contains the elements found in the used oil, measured in parts per million (ppm). This reflects the type and amount of metals that were worn off of engine parts. Lower levels of metals are better. The bottom of the column (The Red Section) shows the oil viscosity and TBN of the oil after use.

Where exactly do the traces of metals come from, and how do they indicate engine wear?
The most common metals in your used oil and where they come from are listed below. These metals come off of different parts of your engine during operation. Your oil protects the surfaces of your engine from wear, but some oils do a better job of others. Oils that have low numbers of these metals did a good job of protecting the engine’s surfaces from wearing down with use. So look for an oil that shows low numbers of these elements:
Iron: Comes from cylinder liner, camshaft, oil pump, and timing chain wear
Chromium: Comes from piston ring wear
Copper: Comes from bearings, valve guides, and bushings wear
Lead: Comes from bearing wear
Aluminum: Comes from piston and piston thrust bearing wear
Silver & Tin: Comes from bearing wear

Which metals are the most important to have low numbers?
I look for the lowest possible numbers of Lead, Copper, and Chromium in the oil sample to indicate better protection of critical areas. The bearings and piston rings are not just critical areas because of their function, they are critical to protect because they comprise a much smaller amount of the total engine mass than Iron and Aluminum parts. 5ppm wear of Lead off a relatively tiny bearing is a much higher percentage of wear than 5ppm of Iron would be from all the Iron found in the crankshaft, camshafts, timing chain, etc... The same principle applies to the piston rings, where 2ppm of Chromium is considered high wear for such a small part.

Where do the other elements come from, and do they indicate engine wear?
The only other element to look for in low numbers, in addition to the wear metals listed above, is silicon. High silicon could mean a bad air or oil filter is not trapping dirt. The other trace elements are usually part of an additive package that oils use, and are not from engine wear. Looking at the numbers of these other elements can be useful in determining if a manufacturer has changed their formula, or to see what type of additives they use. The most common other elements found in an oil sample and what they commonly indicate are:
Silicon: dirt ingestion, sometimes used as an anti-foamant
Molybdenum: anti-wear additive and friction reducer
Boron: anti-wear additive and friction reducer
Calcium: common additive with many functions, primarily a detergent
Magnesium: common additive with many functions
Phosphorous: anti-wear additive and friction reducer, shear stabilizer
Zinc: anti-wear additive and friction reducer, shear stabilizer

What do the viscosity numbers mean, and how do I read them?
The viscosity numbers are from a specific test to determine the viscosity of an oil at a given temperature, as measured in cSt (centistokes). A higher number means a thicker oil at operating temperature, and a lower number means a thinner oil at operating temperature. A higher or lower number is neither good or bad in and of itself, it is merely a measure of the oil’s viscosity. Some oils thinned out, or sheared, from use and became thinner than their original grade. For example, a used 30wt oil might have viscosity numbers which correlate with a 20wt oil, indicating it is prone to shearing in the VQ.

Are higher or lower TBN numbers better, and why don’t all the oil results have a TBN number?
All engine oils break down with use and time. The result is an accumulation of acids in the oil. These acids are what form sludge. The oil’s base stock and the additives in the oil work together to help prevent sludge from forming. The Total Base Number (TBN) is a measure of how well the formulation is working to fight sludge and acid build-up. A high TBN means there is more base than acid in the used oil. A lower TBN number means more acids formed over time than in an oil with a higher TBN. The TBN of a used oil is a good indication of how robust the oil is for extended oil change intervals, with higher TBN numbers indicating an oil is good for longer oil change intervals. It usually costs extra to get a TBN test done, so not all of the samples have a TBN value.

[Sella Turcica]

I figured 15k was insane but decided to buy it - it was on sale for less than the regular synthetic stuff that week anyway. I always stuck by 7.5k intervals in my last car and it worked well. I guess I'll stick to that.

[johnfrisco]

Even if your oil is good for 15K you will still need to change the oil filter every 5K. Not worth it in my opinion.

[islandboy57]

I've tried M1 "Extended Performance" and it wasn't anything special. Even if you did let it go 15K miles, you'd have to change the filter every 5K miles (as it's already been pointed out) and top off your oil each time. I'm much more comfortable with the thought of a new filter AND oil every 5K/5mo.

It really doesn't matter which oil you choose so long as you do your oil changes on time.. But Castrol Syntec seems to work the best for me. I'd always get a slight increase in vibration at idle with M1 when the 5 month mark came around, but I don't get that with Castrol. Just my highly unscientific test

[MrSo0h0o]

has anyone used royal purple? i normally use M1 synthetic but i was thinking about royal purple for the next oil change. would it be worth it?

[Sella Turcica]

The BMW guys I know love Royal Purple. It's just about as expensive as Crown Royal.

[johnfrisco]

Originally Posted by MrSo0h0o

has anyone used royal purple? i normally use M1 synthetic but i was thinking about royal purple for the next oil change. would it be worth it?

Stick with Mobile 1, unless you are rich and looking to waste money.

[JohnGD]

Does anyone know when the stock filter is going to start bypassing?

The oil probably will last that long, but I doubt the filter will. Toyota engines are designed for 5000 mile oil changes (down from 7500 mile normal service because of sludge concerns, as they stated in 2004, retroactively to all engines).

So I don't think the oil filter is going to hold up long after 5000 miles. Some of the Toyota OEM filters are said to use card board end caps, like Fram.

[JohnGD]

Royal Purple $7.94 online (R&E Racing) for 5W-30. That's not out of line with other synthetics. There is little spec that I was able to see in quick browsing. The only specialty lube product I use is the Redline CV-2 synthetic grease. Great stuff, so I'm sure RP should be pretty good from its following.

Originally Posted by MrSo0h0o

has anyone used royal purple? i normally use M1 synthetic but i was thinking about royal purple for the next oil change. would it be worth it?

[JohnGD]

Or if you need 5W-30, try BMW LL-01, MB 209, or VW 502/505. (Mobil-1 5W-30 doesn't meet the above specs).

Originally Posted by johnfrisco

Stick with Mobile 1, unless you are rich and looking to waste money.

[PhatRoyale]

Originally Posted by johnfrisco

Stick with Mobile 1, unless you are rich and looking to waste money.

Mobil 1 is a waste of money.

There's plenty of other oils out there that are hyped up less and perform better.

OP, just buy whatever's cheapest and on sale. Synthetic, conventional, doesn't matter.

Change the oil every 5-7.5k miles and your car will last well over that mark if properly maintained.

[Sella Turcica]

I didn't realize the sludge thing was an issue on these cars. I thought it was only the 2001 and older models. Granted, I never looked into it. Good to know.