2010 Oil Change Question

[BuckeyeGuy]

Hi All. Just a quick question about doing an oil change. When I put filter housing back on I assume you tighten until it is flush with the casing since I'm not tightening against a seal. So I need to use a torque wrench? If so is 18 ft lbs the right value?

[BlackCamSe]

Just hand tighten untill it's tight. That's all I do.

[BuckeyeGuy]

Just an FYI to all the DIYers. Try to find a metal filter wrench. The plastic one I got slips from time to time a bit.

[mcdawgg]

Originally Posted by BuckeyeGuy

Hi All. Just a quick question about doing an oil change. When I put filter housing back on I assume you tighten until it is flush with the casing since I'm not tightening against a seal. So I need to use a torque wrench? If so is 18 ft lbs the right value?

Here's what I posted back in Oct/Nov when I did mine:


2010 I4 Oil Change

I just completed my first oil change on my 2010 4 cylinder. This has the 2.5L engine with the cartridge filter. Bottom line - it was easier than I thought, although a bit messier than the 2.4L oil filter changes. Nothing was too tight from the factory, but perfect, easy to remove all three pieces (drain plug, oil filter drain, and the filter housing.) Use a 64mm 14 flute cap wrench.

The biggest problem is it takes a little longer to clean up the filter housing than a regular oil filter, and having to replace the O-ring gaskets means a little more time also.

You need to push the little plastic filter drain piece up pretty hard up into the filter to drain the cartridge, and it is still a little messy. When reassembling, you don't have to follow the torque specs, because you can easily feel when it is tightened correctly. For the filter drain plug, I just marked it with a permanent marker before I unscrewed it. Then, I just tightened to the same spot (where the marks line up) and when I did it, it felt right. On the cartridge housing, I noted where the little metal spring clip was on the housing, and when I reassembled that, I could tell by feel that it was right, and the metal clip was in the same location as when I removed it. Just for the fun of it, I also checked them with my torque wrench, but I won't bother next time.

Just follow the instructions on the filter box, and also take a look at the link to the Avalon oil change video instructions (also a cartridge type filter) that was posted earlier in this thread.

About 4 quarts, 23 ounces of new 0W-20 Mobil One.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[BuckeyeGuy]

Like the idea about using the perm marker. Wish I would have done that. I just tightened until the lip of the housing was just clear of the metal clip, and the gap between of the rim of the housing was right up against the engine. I'm gonna hit some pawn shops to see if I can't find a torque wrench. Don't really wanna pay 80 dollars for one, and I just don't trust a Harbor Freight 20 dollar wrench.

[madamd]

what video are you talking about? you are the 4th post of the thread, i don't see any video links. thanks

Originally Posted by mcdawgg

Here's what I posted back in Oct/Nov when I did mine:


2010 I4 Oil Change

I just completed my first oil change on my 2010 4 cylinder. This has the 2.5L engine with the cartridge filter. Bottom line - it was easier than I thought, although a bit messier than the 2.4L oil filter changes. Nothing was too tight from the factory, but perfect, easy to remove all three pieces (drain plug, oil filter drain, and the filter housing.) Use a 64mm 14 flute cap wrench.

The biggest problem is it takes a little longer to clean up the filter housing than a regular oil filter, and having to replace the O-ring gaskets means a little more time also.

You need to push the little plastic filter drain piece up pretty hard up into the filter to drain the cartridge, and it is still a little messy. When reassembling, you don't have to follow the torque specs, because you can easily feel when it is tightened correctly. For the filter drain plug, I just marked it with a permanent marker before I unscrewed it. Then, I just tightened to the same spot (where the marks line up) and when I did it, it felt right. On the cartridge housing, I noted where the little metal spring clip was on the housing, and when I reassembled that, I could tell by feel that it was right, and the metal clip was in the same location as when I removed it. Just for the fun of it, I also checked them with my torque wrench, but I won't bother next time.

Just follow the instructions on the filter box, and also take a look at the link to the Avalon oil change video instructions (also a cartridge type filter) that was posted earlier in this thread.

About 4 quarts, 23 ounces of new 0W-20 Mobil One.

Let me know if you have any questions.

[mcdawgg]

Originally Posted by madamd

what video are you talking about? you are the 4th post of the thread, i don't see any video links. thanks

Sorry, I pasted this in from another thread where there was a video. Just do a search and you'll find it.