Slight right pull...any ideas?

[wcdturbo]

1. I did use search. For some reason, it doesn't return any results so I apologize ahead of time if this is on here somewhere.

2. I bought my 2008 SE V6 2 years ago. I had the dealer put TRD springs on it. It has made that grinding noise in the left front ever since. They even pulled it apart 4 times to make sure everything was okay. A few calls to tech line, etc, etc and nothing seemed to correct it. I went to the local Advance Auto and got some lithium grease I sprayed onto the LF spring, no noise since then. Good or bad?

3. As long as I can remember, this car had a slight pull to the right. Even though the original tires had a 260 TW rating I managed to get 33k out of them. I got some new tires and also got a set of Front and Rear camber bolts since I know the dealer didn't mess with that when they did the alignment. Took the car to a few buddies of mine, one is a master tech with 23 years experience working on Porsche's and he aligned it for me, used the camber bolts, I saw the read out. The alignment is PERFECT!

Back to the problem at hand, even after new tires, and a perfect alignment, this car still pulls to the right. So much so that I have exert force on the wheel slightly to the left to keep it driving straight. I tried it on numerous road surfaces to the same result. So, this leads me back to a possibly spring issue? Is it possible the upper bearings are bad causing the car to want to pull left? ANy other ideas on this?

Summary...

1. TRD springs
2. New tires
3. Camber bolts and perfect alignment
4. Car still wants to pull right.
5. Swapped Rims around to make sure it wasn't tires.
6. Car still wants to pull right.

Any ideas?

[Dave-o]

I just did a search for tire pull and a ton of results came up, but everyone's got a different problem so it's probably tough for you to relate

if the readout is perfect for your alignment, maybe check out this post I pulled from another user in this forum named nsx... and the thread is here


"Based on what you said, it seems like the tie rod distances are not correct.
Based on your claim that holding the wheel straight produces a pull to the right while all alignment numbers are dead on indicates incorrect tie rod distances.

Tell the alignment guys to not only do the alignment but to also measure the distances from inner to outer tie rod ends, they usually are about symmetrical left and right.
Hope that helps."

[wcdturbo]

Thanks Dave, I'll check it out.

Yeah, for some reason when I do a search, my browser goes blank, I see the page header but I never get any results. I tried this in Firefox and IE so no clue what my problem is with that.

[Aceventura9586]

There was a TSB out for certain trim levels and such of our car for pulling, did you check that? or did this just start after you put in the springs?

[wcdturbo]

I read the TSB, It only goes up to MY '07. I can't answer that second question, it has been so long now.

[gdanaher]

Be aware of the roads you are driving on, and if they have substantial crowning. Many cars pull slightly to the right because of the crowning. See if you can find a flat parking lot or similar conditions on a multilane highway and see if it continues to pull. If so the last choice is to play with the toe in/ toe out on the front to see if you can accommodate whatever anomaly the car has.

[AlmightyCamry777]

Idea 1 - I'm with Dave-O. Check the tie rods install length. A good mechanic doesn't just measure the tie rods with a ruler or some half-azz way, they count the number of turns to remove the tie rod and then reinstall the exact same number of turns. then re-check the alignment for good measure. For the same reason Dave-O says - the tie rods may be aligned right for the correct amount of toe in but could still be the wrong length.

Another factor is that to make the steering wheel straight, after front end work and parts replacement, it is typically done by twisting the tie rods. This also could have been a factor in screwing up the front end (if it is in fact screwed up, which it may not be!)

You had a lot of work done on the front end. Generally they know exactly what they are doing 100% when they install your front end at the Toyota factory, but when you hand it over to a mechanic and mod the car all of that can fly right out the window, we all know there are a whole bunch of meatball mechanics out there that do not know how to do certain things right. A good toyota front end guy would be able to spot improper tie rod length and adjust them.

Idea 2 - It could still be your tires causing the pull. I have had "radial pull" (the actual name of this phenomenon) on several front wheel drive cars i have owned. I have tried the same solutions you have and often times still did not fix the pull. The pulling could STILL be caused by your tires it depends on the brand (and im sure you are using same exact type of tire at both front wheels aren't you?) The car may just not "like" the tires (it happens!).

This problem of tire pull has almost made me rip my own hair out in frustration so many times, i no longer even rotate the tires. If i get a pair up front that DON'T pull i just leave them where they are and drive them until they are bald. (Its probably my fault, i buy cheap tires. Radial pull is less likely to happen if you buy dunlop or michelin tires i think - on the 2000 model year camrys they use where i work, radial pull never happens, probably because those are the tires we use on them.)

[wcdturbo]

Yeah, I got to thinking and tried something.

From "center" I can turn the car left 1 1/2 times. It turns right 2 times. So basically, I think the rack is off center which means to me when the springs were put on, the guy pulled the steering wheel to "center" it instead of making sur ethe rack was center and adjusting the tie rods.

[gdanaher]

Sheesh, let's review. On the front end alignment, it matters not if the tie rod is screwed in 5 more turns on one side than the other, so long as both are screwed in far enough to hold the joint in place. You are shooting for the total amount of toe in or toe out on both sides. I rather doubt that the steering wheel was pulled in order to install new springs and then align the suspension. Why bother? You are going to center the steering wheel and then set the toe in or out on both sides based on the center point of the steering wheel. The total toe out can be measured from ball joint to ball joint. You can adjust the front end so that the steering wheel is essentially upside down and it will track according to the book.

[AlmightyCamry777]

Originally Posted by gdanaher

Sheesh, let's review. On the front end alignment, it matters not if the tie rod is screwed in 5 more turns on one side than the other, so long as both are screwed in far enough to hold the joint in place. You are shooting for the total amount of toe in or toe out on both sides. I rather doubt that the steering wheel was pulled in order to install new springs and then align the suspension. Why bother? You are going to center the steering wheel and then set the toe in or out on both sides based on the center point of the steering wheel. The total toe out can be measured from ball joint to ball joint. You can adjust the front end so that the steering wheel is essentially upside down and it will track according to the book.

Of course they did not have to pull the steering wheel, it is just that he said he had springs changed. Also the front end has been aligned two or three times. Everytime you change something in the front end, there's a chance that the steering wheel will not be straight afterwards, and this is usually fixed by turning the tie rod adjustment, no?Anyway after all of this i still suspect the tires. I'd try a different brand and then if THESE still pull, bring it back right quick to the tire shop and try another kind. (I'd tell the tire installer guy the deal, have him test drive it after getting the new tires and ask him if it pulls that way your 6 is covered if you have to go back there right away.).