2AZ-FE Water Pump Replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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Old 04-28-2010, 10:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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2AZ-FE Water Pump Replacement

Is a special tool needed to replace the water pump on the 2AZ-FE?

I have an 04 with some weeping at the pump shaft. (Only 40K miles!) The manual shows the water pump pulley being removed with a special pin spanner tool holding the pulley. Can I improvise with something jammed in the pulley or other method?

Thank you...
Harry6

PS - The instruction thread for replacing the serpentine belt is fantastic! Adding something about the water pump would really round it out...
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Old 04-29-2010, 12:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I am not sure what the manual shows, you can borrow a pulley puller from Autozone or similar places, not worth damaging the pulley IMO.
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Old 04-29-2010, 03:25 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Pin Spanner workaround

As the picture below shows, the manual shows a pin spanner, not an ordinary puller tool. When changing the Serpentine belt it is common to change the water pump. {correction the tool shown is a face spanner}

How did you remove the water pump pulley?


Last edited by Harry6; 04-29-2010 at 03:51 AM. Reason: correction
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Old 05-06-2010, 09:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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autozone has no such puller / tool
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Old 05-07-2010, 12:14 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harry6 View Post
autozone has no such puller / tool

hey i just did mine on tuesday, on my 03 SE 2.4L..

took me 45mins to do, not including draining the radiator..


i got the pulley off the same way this guy did

while the tool would be more ideal, his method worked fine.




Dealer wanted like 146 for the waterpump, i found oem ones online for 116.. but with the dealership pumps seeming to fail so fast, i just went to advanced auto parts and picked up there waterpump for 54 bucks.. it actually seemed pretty descent..


the advance auto one came with a cheap looking gasket, the factory waterpump doesn't even use a gasket, just like RTV sealer, i'd recommend getting the dealers stuff to seal it, it's called "FIGP" i cleaned the old sealant off the block with a razor and applied the FIGP to the new waterpump, put everything back together and i personally let it sit overnight, but the FIGP stuff says you can start the car in a hour or two, but doesn't set until 15-16 hours..



i also picked up a bottle of the super long life coolant from toyota it was 19.99 the FIGP from the dealer was 13.69 ..


when i drained my radiator fluid though i drained it in a clean pan, when refilling the radiator i used my new bottle of coolant, then i filtered the pan of old coolant through a screen or cloth, back into the coolant bottle, so i could reuse it if i needed extra. kind of a cheap move but, i didn't want to have to buy another bottle of coolant from the dealer, and the coolant i drained was very clean still and i didn't need much of it at all..



let me know if you have any questions though.. i just did it the other day, was the easiest waterpump i've ever done..



don't know if i was on the stock one or not, but my car has 131k on it.




here's a video of how bad mine sounded before i changed it!
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The guy in Youtube said to disconnect the upper engine mount and use a jack to raise the engine a little to allow more room to work around the water pump. Isn't there also 1 or 2 more lower engine mounts down below near the subframe that also need to be disconnected? Can someone confirm this? I like his idea of using a pry bar to hold the pully.
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Old 05-07-2010, 06:26 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vasy View Post
The guy in Youtube said to disconnect the upper engine mount and use a jack to raise the engine a little to allow more room to work around the water pump. Isn't there also 1 or 2 more lower engine mounts down below near the subframe that also need to be disconnected? Can someone confirm this? I like his idea of using a pry bar to hold the pully.

nah that upper engine mount on the passanger side is the only mount that needs to be removed to do the water pump..

i just used a board like him and jacked up that side of the motor right about to where it normally sits, then unbolted the 3 bolts from that mount and that's it..


yeah the pry bar worked fine for me, that wire he's talking about being careful not to mess up, if you remove your alternator ( just 2 bolts) you can safely move that wire out of the way so your pry bar doesn't damage it..

that guy's video was very helpful to me before getting started, i just think removing the alternator makes it even easier and only takes 2 mins..
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