Are mushy brakes are normal?

[mj8]

I just bought a 2004 LE with 32,000 the car was hardly ever driven. First thing I noticed was how mushy the brakes were, large amount of pedal travel before they would bite. I'm comparing this to my 1993 LE that would bite very quickly. I haven't had a chance to check the pads yet but just wanted to run this question by you all.

[carsrus]

If it has drums in the back thye probally need adjustment. Have you pulled the e brake multiple times? 5-10 times souhld adjust them.

[kenny1773]

If it is a 2004 and the fluid was never flushed, that might cause it too.

[89molavi]

Well it is personal, but when I got my 2005 LE I also noticed that the brakes travel more and are not as responsive as my older Galant. I had the dealer check and recheck the brakes 3-4 times, since I had CPO warranty and every time they said it is fine. I have gotten used to it now.

[Netforcer]

Gen5's are notorious for their soft brake pedal... so yes... it is normal

[citrxj]

Camry's in general have really mushy pedals, both brake and gas. Try driving any other car for a week, and going back to the camry.

[johnfrisco]

I never noticed this. Have you brake fluid level checked. You may have a slow leak in the Master Brake Cylinder.

[lmacmil]

Originally Posted by mj8

I just bought a 2004 LE with 32,000 the car was hardly ever driven. First thing I noticed was how mushy the brakes were, large amount of pedal travel before they would bite....

With the engine off, depress the pedal several times to deplete the vacuum booster. If the pedal is firm and doesn't go to the floor, then the brakes are probably fine and it's just the calibration of the booster (which neither you nor the dealer can change). If the pedal goes to the floor, there is probably air in the lines and the system needs to be bled.

I have a 2005 and while I wouldn't call the pedal feel mushy, it certainly isn't as firm as a lot of cars.

[warpedrotor]

The adjusters don't work well; if you adjust the rear brakes manually you're good for a while, then they feel mushy again. or wear construction or hiking boots, they make the pedal feel higher when the brakes grab.

[JohnGD]

Owners have complained and dealers have insisted that it's normal. But do have it check because Toyota's quality have gone downhill with these.

Originally Posted by mj8

I just bought a 2004 LE with 32,000 the car was hardly ever driven. First thing I noticed was how mushy the brakes were, large amount of pedal travel before they would bite. I'm comparing this to my 1993 LE that would bite very quickly. I haven't had a chance to check the pads yet but just wanted to run this question by you all.

[mj8]

I've felt the rotors and they are smooth all the way across. I know everyone says if your going to put new pads on go ahead and replace the rotors but is this always necessary? I was going to put on Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramics is this a bad idea?

[JohnGD]

As long as your rotors are in good shape (above minimum thickness, no excessive scoring (that catches finger nails), no excessive thickness variations or lateral runouts), then reuse them.

Otherwise Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, Brembo blanks (if available), or even Raybestos service grade should work.

I wouldn't use ThermoQuiet. I recommend getting Akebono ProAct ceramic for daily driving, or Hawk HPS or LTS for spirited driving. If you go to the dealer and look at the code on the back, if you see "AK xxx-xxx FF" then you're golden. It's Akebono. If it's "NBK", run, don't walk.

Results depending on who's the lowest bidder of the batch. That's why I'd say just get Akebono ProAct.

Read the section "RESURFACE THE ROTORS EVERY TIME OR AS NEEDED?"
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm

Originally Posted by mj8

I've felt the rotors and they are smooth all the way across. I know everyone says if your going to put new pads on go ahead and replace the rotors but is this always necessary? I was going to put on Wagner ThermoQuiet ceramics is this a bad idea?

[mj8]

Originally Posted by JohnGD

As long as your rotors are in good shape (above minimum thickness, no excessive scoring (that catches finger nails), no excessive thickness variations or lateral runouts), then reuse them.

Otherwise Raybestos Advanced Technology rotors, Brembo blanks (if available), or even Raybestos service grade should work.

I wouldn't use ThermoQuiet. I recommend getting Akebono ProAct ceramic for daily driving, or Hawk HPS or LTS for spirited driving. If you go to the dealer and look at the code on the back, if you see "AK xxx-xxx FF" then you're golden. It's Akebono. If it's "NBK", run, don't walk.

Results depending on who's the lowest bidder of the batch. That's why I'd say just get Akebono ProAct.

Read the section "RESURFACE THE ROTORS EVERY TIME OR AS NEEDED?"
http://www.aa1car.com/library/2003/bf110322.htm

What if I buy Akebono ProAct Ceramics from someone like Tirerack.com or the like is that a better way to get Akebono's? Or could they be NBK as well?

[JohnGD]

If you buy aftermarket branded Akebonos then you will get Akebonos.

I recommend that you also check prices on rockauto.com and amazon.com.

Also double check and verify the correct pad numbers by:

Akebono web catalog:
http://www.showmetheparts.com/akebono/

Akebono products:
http://www.akebonobrakes.com/aftermarket/index.asp

Originally Posted by mj8

What if I buy Akebono ProAct Ceramics from someone
like Tirerack.com or the like is that a better way to get Akebono's? Or could they be NBK as well?

[JohnGD]

Ok, looks like the front pads are the same for both US and Japan production: ACT908

However, rears are different. US = ACT828, Japan = ACT885.

Do verify again. http://www.showmetheparts.com/akebono/