vacuum hose questions - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

Mangix · 05-06-2010, 08:22 PM

i have a 2002 toyota camry LE V6 and i have a question about the vacuum hoses.

i had my friend take a look at my air intake and do some optimization(which included getting rid of the plastic box on the bottom and having the top part of the intake permanently open.

while doing so, he broke the vacuum hose leading to the circular thing. i have pictures to explain what i mean. bad quality since i used my phone but oh well. also a bit dark.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9638/image012w.jpg
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/646/image011gd.jpg
http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/1332/image009sh.jpg

also have a cable missing(top of the thing on picture three.

does breaking it have any impact on the car? I also took one of the hoses out of the airbox that goes into the engine and noticed that when i put my thumb over it, the engine RPMs drop.

Agent556 · 05-06-2010, 09:00 PM

which vacuum hose? i have my hoses configured a little differently. you can configure your hoses the way i have temporarily until you get another hose to replace what was broken.

Mangix · 05-06-2010, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agent556

which vacuum hose? i have my hoses configured a little differently. you can configure your hoses the way i have temporarily until you get another hose to replace what was broken.

the 4mm one next to the battery connected to the circular thing. the hose end on the circular thing is broken. i can't get it to stick to the circular thing using electrical tape, so i might have to use superglue.

Mangix · 05-07-2010, 10:14 PM

*bump*

would like to know what the circle thing is.

Agent556 · 05-07-2010, 10:17 PM

oh. the circle thing connected to the air intake box is a vacuum switching valve. standard configuration has that tube that leads from it into an electronic actuator which is controlled by the ECU. at a certain RPM / throttle position, the ECU will tell the electronic actuator to allow vacuum to pass through it to apply vacuum onto the circle piece to open it and allow a more direct air path to the engine, changing the overall intake length. i just bypassed the electronic actuator and made vacuum always act on the VSV. it doesnt do much, but it did change the feel a bit. and i like how it feels now, so im just keeping it like this.

the red dots show where the vacuum tubes route through normally from the factory.

the upper path is the one controlled by the VSV. the bottom path is always open and is where the air goes when the VSV is closed at low RPM

Mangix · 05-08-2010, 12:19 AM

oh i see. what my friend did was he set the vacuum switch valve so that it's permanently open. made the car louder i guess. but the light gray hose that extends from the vacuum switch valve is broken right now. when i start the engine, i don't feel any air being pushed or pulled from the hole. also, right above where the blue connector is where you connect two light gray hoses, one's broken and the other that connects to the airbox is missing. that hole on my airbox now sucks air from the engine bay which kind of worries me. i'll try to get a couple of pictures in the light tomorrow to show what i mean.

also, in the second picture, my friend removed the barely visible plastic box that appeared to do nothing. he filled the hole with electrical tape. not sure if that's a bad thing or not.

Agent556 · 05-08-2010, 03:21 AM

plug the hole on the airbox for now or something. the air that goes in the hole near the top of the airbox is not filtered.

the plastic box is the resonator IIRC. all that will do is make your engine a little bit louder i think

nobody else wants to chime in guys?

also, i suggest you buy some hoses to replace the ones that are broken/missing

Mangix · 05-08-2010, 01:38 PM

here are some pictures i just took.

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7845/image014jh.jpg
http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/1390/image013rb.jpg

in the first picture, i show that i have a vacuum hose unhooked. the reason is because if i plug it with my finger or if i connect it to the airbox, the engine rpms drop and the car doesn't sound as good anymore. probably needs a lot of air through there.

in the second pictures, the broken hose is what i'm talking about. i need to know if it impacts anything in a big way so i can do something about it. the white stuff on the circle is superglue that my friend used to get the hose back on there but failed. i'm also missing the wire that goes from the top of the blue connector thing to the top of the airbox. i doubt it makes a huge difference but having hot air going into the engine is never good.

Agent556 · 05-08-2010, 07:50 PM

in the first picture, that vacuum hose should be hooked up to the airbox. how far does the engine RPM drop?

the second picture just looks bad. that valve opens the air inlet for when your engine needs more air at higher rpms. sure your engine can run without the valve opened, but i dont think performance will be too decent without it opening.

Mangix · 05-08-2010, 07:54 PM

i can't say how far it drops since i can't go to the car and hook it up at the same time. i'll need to ask someone to help me with that. but when i'm at the engine, the difference is very noticeable. when the hose is hooked up or blocked by my finger, the engine sounds like it's starving. drops maybe 100 rpm from the 600-500rpm that it idles at.

the valve should be permanently open. friend said he locked it in place.

Agent556 · 05-08-2010, 08:05 PM

ok, if the valve really is permanently open, i dont think you need took hook the vacuum hose to it then.

i still suggest you plug up the top vacuum tube mount and hook up the vacuum tube that you disconnected.

also, it looks like youre missing some vacuum tubes that usually run to the bottom front of the air box (refer to my image)

that may be why you have such a low idle

Mangix · 05-08-2010, 09:11 PM

the vacuum tubes that you have were never on this car as far as i know. the ram air intake on the front does not have the two slots to put the cables on.

i tried to hook up the disconnected hose to replace the top one but it's not long enough. but w/e. as a temp fix, i just put a bunch of tape over the top hole on the airbox to prevent hot air from going in. i also superglued the hose back to the circular thing. looks fine now.

as for low idle, i'm not sure what causes it. i know i have a very old and very dirty filter installed that must be replaced(as well as the cabin air filter). google searching indicates the idle air control valve is clogged and that's why i'm getting a low idle but i'm not sure.

i also find disconnecting the hose marked in yellow to be really weird since it raises my idle by a little bit. maybe it's because i'm missing the vacuum hose in front. i dunno.