Replacing the Wheel Bearing Assembly for 2007 Camry SE - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums
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#1 Old 05-24-2010, 01:05 PM
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USA Replacing the Wheel Bearing Assembly for 2007 Camry SE

Hello,

I was wondering if any of out there knew a good diy to replace the wheel bearing for a 2007 Toyota Camry, rear passenger side wheel bearing assembly. Also, if anyone knows what torque the bearing assembly should be set too.

Thanks,
bongoli


***update below***

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.

Last edited by bongoli; 05-25-2010 at 12:43 AM.
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#2 Old 05-24-2010, 01:57 PM
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You could just check a service manual for the procedure and the torque specs. If you don't have a service manaul you can download a Toyota factory service manual for free at the top of the Camry forum, over at AutomotiveForums.com. Download the generation 6 manual. It should actually be for a 2007 model.

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#3 Old 05-24-2010, 02:25 PM
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That bearing assembly is $325. at its cheapest. Are you certain that it has failed? If so, you remove the caliper, roter, and get down to the assembly and pull it.

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#4 Old 05-25-2010, 12:43 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I found the Camry manual athttp://www.camrystuff.com/. And, yes it is my bearing, I just bought an aftermarket piece from Advance Auto Parts for 145.95 (including S+h and taxes).

My buddy (o2k) and I were able to get the rotor off after much struggling because that bitch refused to come off the hub and after some sweet talking and plenty of WD40 it finally slid off.

Once, we unbolted the 4 bolts for the bearing, we tried to pull it off, but did not work and resorted to rubber mallet. We hit the bearing on the lugs and the whole thing came down along with the heat shield. Is this normal?

Now we arrive at our current problem of separating the wheel bearing assembly from the heat shield? I am providing the following pics as reference for your assistance. Our best guess is there is heavy rust holding the two pieces together; we have sprayed WD40 and tried to hammer it with a rubber mallet from the back. But to no avail. So now, we are wondering if we have done something wrong, and we appreciate any assistance we can get to solve this problem ASAP. Thanks in advance.

Below are the pics.

Old wheel bearing and heat shield (back view)

Front View

New replacement hub bearing on top of wheel

Bongoli

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.
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#5 Old 05-25-2010, 12:47 AM
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Someone at advanced auto parts told us to use a 2x4 and hit the hub until it comes out, or use the 2x4 and stand on it for leverage to separate the two. But I don't know if that is correct.


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#6 Old 05-25-2010, 07:39 AM
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You can look at the new part and tell how the shield is attached. Nothing, right? Just dirt and rust. See if you can hold the assembly rigid and then after a good wd40 soak, try to twist it while on the hub. If you can get it to twist a little it should ease off.

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#7 Old 05-25-2010, 08:36 AM
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WD-40 is great for many things, but is not the best penetrating oil. Get something like PB Blaster and try that.

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#8 Old 05-25-2010, 10:34 AM
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When you reinstall the new bearing assembly,burnish a small amout of anti-seize on all metal to metal interfaces. I always do this shortly after I purchase a new car and have never had a problem getting the rotors off the hub assemblies. Using anti-seize on the lug nuts is not rocommended.
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#9 Old 05-25-2010, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Gerber View Post
WD-40 is great for many things, but is not the best penetrating oil. Get something like PB Blaster and try that.

Mike
Hey Mike,

Picked up some PB blaster, will let you know how it goes? Fingers crossed...

Bongoli

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.
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#10 Old 05-25-2010, 12:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gdanaher View Post
You can look at the new part and tell how the shield is attached. Nothing, right? Just dirt and rust. See if you can hold the assembly rigid and then after a good wd40 soak, try to twist it while on the hub. If you can get it to twist a little it should ease off.
Hey,

We tried the WD40 method, but now I am using the PB Blaster, lets see how that goes. Thanks!

Bongoli

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.
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#11 Old 05-25-2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Donald E. George View Post
When you reinstall the new bearing assembly,burnish a small amout of anti-seize on all metal to metal interfaces. I always do this shortly after I purchase a new car and have never had a problem getting the rotors off the hub assemblies. Using anti-seize on the lug nuts is not rocommended.
Hey Donald,

Not a bad idea, let's see if I can get this thing off first! Thanks.

Bongoli

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.
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#12 Old 08-03-2010, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bongoli View Post
Hey Donald,

Not a bad idea, let's see if I can get this thing off first! Thanks.

Bongoli
I am in the same situation. the wheel hub is stuck on the caliper bracket/ heat shield. I've soaked it in release agent release all) and she is on there pretty good.

Any advice?.

How ironic is it that my rear hub bearing is gone as well. I have read at least a dozen other threads about bad rear hub bearings. Oh, mine cost $112.00 CDN with taxes 126.30. Now that cheap!...
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#13 Old 08-03-2010, 11:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Im_crewman View Post
I am in the same situation. the wheel hub is stuck on the caliper bracket/ heat shield. I've soaked it in release agent release all) and she is on there pretty good.

Any advice?.

How ironic is it that my rear hub bearing is gone as well. I have read at least a dozen other threads about bad rear hub bearings. Oh, mine cost $112.00 CDN with taxes 126.30. Now that cheap!...
hey Im_crewman,

sorry to hear abt your predicament. i had the same situation and no matter just could not get that thing to come off, damn rusting issues with toyotas! so i had to suck up my pride and take it in to my local mechanic to have him do it. not sure how he did it, i imagine maybe an impact hammer? anyways, sorry couldnt be of any more help, good luck!

-bongoli

2007 Magnetic Gray Metallic Camry SE V6. Trunk LED swap. Yellow Fog lights. Middle of 20% Tints all around. Looking to LED swap on Map Light, Door and install Cathode bars in footwells.

2004 Metallic Bronze Acura MDX. Front and Rear fender flares. Door and Body moldings. Side steps.
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#14 Old 08-04-2010, 08:32 AM
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I got it apart

Quote:
Originally Posted by bongoli View Post
hey Im_crewman,

sorry to hear abt your predicament. i had the same situation and no matter just could not get that thing to come off, damn rusting issues with toyotas! so i had to suck up my pride and take it in to my local mechanic to have him do it. not sure how he did it, i imagine maybe an impact hammer? anyways, sorry couldnt be of any more help, good luck!

-bongoli
I ended up using reverse engineering. Instead of beating it out I tried pressing the heat shield off. By using a piece of 1/2" threaded rod through one of the large holes. I was able to push the heat shield off of the hub. I'll try to up load some pictures later.
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#15 Old 08-17-2012, 11:49 AM
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Ever get the heat shield seperated? IM about to dive into this soon and would like any tips I could get.
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