5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
'07 SEV6 The wife will get out of car with a/c working great, later in day get in the car to drive home no a/c meaning no air blowing out of the vents (this is with the controls all in there max positition) then 10min down the road all the sudden it kicks back on and works great.This is very intermittent now the last couple of days it will be working great and the longer you drive the air blowing out of the vents begins to slow down to just a trickle,
Im lost I figured it was the blower motor resistor but the dealership says this year dosent have on that it is solid state. They say they dont even stock the blower motor and never ordered one. one of the dealeships in town has one for $155.00 not
bad but i dont want to purchase if thats not the prob. talked to the service guys he says it might be a relay but they want $108. to do a diagnostic.then another service guy says it might be the control panel
(mine is the three knob arrangment) and thats $670.00 the service guys are making it sound like they have never herd of any a/c probs on the '07's
You need to do a little more trouble shooting before spending money.When it is acting up, you assume the fan is at fault. Put your hand on the suction tube under the hood and see if it is cold. If so, then the compressor is working and perhaps the fan is at fault. If the tube is at ambient, then the fault is elsewhere. Call around for a relay. Seems like there was a previous discussion about this and one could be had at Auto Zone or OReillys for very little. Might be worth a few bucks to check this.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
You need to do a little more trouble shooting before spending money.When it is acting up, you assume the fan is at fault. Put your hand on the suction tube under the hood and see if it is cold. If so, then the compressor is working and perhaps the fan is at fault. If the tube is at ambient, then the fault is elsewhere. Call around for a relay. Seems like there was a previous discussion about this and one could be had at Auto Zone or OReillys for very little. Might be worth a few bucks to check this.
Thanks for the relay thing I will try to do a search on that,one of the service guys i talked to did say something about a relay.One would think it has something to do with the fan she could shut the car off with it on max a/c and five minutes later get back in the car and nothing but five minutes later all the sudden it starts again and all along the compressor is cycling as normal. Or the new thing is it will be working great on max high and the all the sudden it will start to slow down although the air thats trickling out is ice cold. then you could mess with the switches nothing changes shut the car off come back out half hour later bam its working again
Well, that's progress. You say the compressor is cycling but the fan is not running. Switch the fan control to different speeds. See if this does anything. Disconnect the electrical connector/plug from the fan motor, when the thing is working correctly, and jot down the voltages at each pin. Keep the info and the next time it fails, pull it again and note the voltages. Have it set to the highest speed in both cases so that you can compare oranges to oranges. If the voltage is unchanged but the fan does not spin, then yes, the fan motor is suspect. If the voltages have changed then the fan is fine and the problem is up stream.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
Well, that's progress. You say the compressor is cycling but the fan is not running. Switch the fan control to different speeds. See if this does anything. Disconnect the electrical connector/plug from the fan motor, when the thing is working correctly, and jot down the voltages at each pin. Keep the info and the next time it fails, pull it again and note the voltages. Have it set to the highest speed in both cases so that you can compare oranges to oranges. If the voltage is unchanged but the fan does not spin, then yes, the fan motor is suspect. If the voltages have changed then the fan is fine and the problem is up stream.
Pin 1 White wire with black tracer is the return/ground.
Pin 2 red wire is the control wire from the A/C control. (Pulsed DC [longer pulses equals faster blower speed])
Pin 3 white wire is the battery voltage through a 50 amp fuse.
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
If I were in this situation, I would take my car to the dealer for them to diagonose the problem since the technicians will examine it physically so much better than just saying and predicting things. Also, they may see other problems relating to this (e.g, changing one component may affect others). If you want to do this by yourself, please do it right!
If I were in this situation, I would take my car to the dealer for them to diagonose the problem since the technicians will examine it physically so much better than just saying and predicting things. Also, they may see other problems relating to this (e.g, changing one component may affect others). If you want to do this by yourself, please do it right!
Completly agreed how ever at 110.00 dollars for the diagnostic fee at the dealership. I fugured somebody on the planet must have had the same problem as me so I tried here. Plus the service guy tells me that they can only diagnose if the problem is occuring at the time of hookup and everytime
its happening I start to head to the dealer and and it starts to work normaly again.
I had this problem when I first bought my 02 Camry in 2006 with 78,000 miles. The AC light would start blinking and there would be no cold air coming out. Later the air would be fine, but would then fail again.
I took it to Limbaugh Toyota and they knew right off the bat that it was the relay. I think it was around $150 for the part and labor, and I haven't had a problem with it since.
BTW, my camry passed the 300,000 mile mark this week. I need to quit reading these forums, its making me paranoid.
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