Brake pedal flutter/vibration - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

wesrick · 06-22-2010, 10:30 AM

Brake pedal flutters when stopping, and when stopped. Car stops just fine, just has a flutter feel to it when pressed down, just before it gets to the distance that stops the car. Not sure how to diagnose it...

FYI - car is not ABS equipped

Thought I found a possible TSB on it - but the local Toyota dealer said a TSB didn't exist for it: Link: http://www.aboutautomobile.com/TSB/2...ydraulic+Brake

History:
1.) Recently purchased the car - had the brake pedal flutter. I didn't notice it (as it is slight, but noticeable if you're looking for it).

2.) Changed front rotors and front pads, same no change in result. (Aftermarket rotors and aftermarket ceramic pads)

Not sure if this is a caliper issue, a rear drum issue.. ?

AlmightyCamry777 · 07-08-2010, 01:58 PM

I can't believe no one tried to answer your post...anyway it sure sounds like you need new rotors. Because pedal shudder is usually caused by warped rotors. (Does the pedal really flutter when you are stopped? I don't know of anything that would cause this.)
The rotors are the usual cause because they do more then half the braking and get hotter, thus more likely to warp. Rear drums can warp too, and you can check them by driving slowly and yanking on the emergency brake with your thumb on the lock button. If they're warped, you might feel it through the handle.

You can possibly have the rotors turned, or just replace them. New rotors cost $30 on up, turning costs about $15-20.

gdanaher · 07-08-2010, 03:31 PM

Yes, it sounds like a rotor is warped but if you just replaced them, then one other suggestion before moving on. Many years ago I encountered a situation in which a mechanic had dinged the surface of the bearing carrier to which the rotor bolted up to. It had been hit with a hammer or dropped or something. Anyway at one spot there was to piece of steel raised up and when you bolted up the rotor, it was out of round--not true. Had to go back and file off the spot and clean it to allow for a true rotor. Just something odd, but it could happen again. Next, if you know anyone in a machine shop you might be able to borrow a magnet-based dial indicator. Placed next to the rotor you can spin it and see just how true the rotor is, usually to about .0001". Easier than trying to eyeball it. Check the rotors before taking them off the car or trying to get them turned.

njerald · 07-08-2010, 03:39 PM

This question has been answered about 20 times in the past 4 years......

wesrick · 07-08-2010, 10:20 PM

Since it vibrated both before and after a rotor change, I doubt it's likely that it could still be the rotor, but I am open to anything, as I haven't figured it out yet.

Yes, it does vibrate when the pedal is depressed when stopped.. because of this I didn't think it would be the rotors, but since it was grinding when I bought it, I knew they had to be changed anyway, so I went ahead and changed the rotors anyway.

FYI - If this has already been answered, please direct me to it. I've done a few searches and found nothing..

v6please · 07-08-2010, 11:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wesrick

Since it vibrated both before and after a rotor change, I doubt it's likely that it could still be the rotor, but I am open to anything, as I haven't figured it out yet.

Yes, it does vibrate when the pedal is depressed when stopped.. because of this I didn't think it would be the rotors, but since it was grinding when I bought it, I knew they had to be changed anyway, so I went ahead and changed the rotors anyway.

FYI - If this has already been answered, please direct me to it. I've done a few searches and found nothing..

Around here they expect you search for hours and hours and hours and hours on this forum until you find the answer to your question (which they wholeheartedly and undoubtedly believe is definitely there), instead of making a simple thread and getting an answer.

I mean, you'd have to have some real anger management issues answering a question on a public forum, even if it is repeated. Just don't answer it if you don't want to. Doesn't make sense to me. Why are you on public forums if you get this angry?

olympicgold · 07-09-2010, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by v6please

Around here they expect you search for hours and hours and hours and hours on this forum until you find the answer to your question (which they wholeheartedly and undoubtedly believe is definitely there), instead of making a simple thread and getting an answer.

I mean, you'd have to have some real anger management issues answering a question on a public forum, even if it is repeated. Just don't answer it if you don't want to. Doesn't make sense to me. Why are you on public forums if you get this angry?

Well I've been here for few months now and they only jerk on this whole forum is Njerald that replied above. He's the only one barking at everyone and posting dumb comments with many dots in the end. Everybody else is fine !

I also believe he is probably on many peoples ignore list. (He is on mine and you dont see messages of people on ignore list. Only their name)

gdanaher · 07-09-2010, 07:17 AM

Ah, so the car can be sitting still with the engine running and you feel this flutter on the pedal? Then certainly it isn't an issue with the trueness of the rotor. Does it change if in neutral you rev the engine? Does it stop if the engine stops but the key is in the same position? I'm thinking of a vacuum leak from the booster. Check the vacuum line between the booster and the engine. I assume the ABS light is not on? If you want to live dangerously then unhook the vacuum line from the booster, plug it, and drive down an unused street slowly and test the brake. It will be hard to stop, but if the problem is related to the vacuum boost then you should learn something from this test.

somick · 07-09-2010, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdanaher

Ah, so the car can be sitting still with the engine running and you feel this flutter on the pedal? Then certainly it isn't an issue with the trueness of the rotor. Does it change if in neutral you rev the engine? Does it stop if the engine stops but the key is in the same position? I'm thinking of a vacuum leak from the booster. Check the vacuum line between the booster and the engine. I assume the ABS light is not on? If you want to live dangerously then unhook the vacuum line from the booster, plug it, and drive down an unused street slowly and test the brake. It will be hard to stop, but if the problem is related to the vacuum boost then you should learn something from this test.

There is a TSB for the brakes vibration on 2004 Camry. Unfortunately I cannot find it in my records. Try to search for it here on the forum. I doubt though it will help you - your car is probably out of the warranty. The TSB has a new master cylinder replacement number.

Sam

tengiday · 07-09-2010, 01:35 PM

You can go to this link to search for any TSB.
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/tsbs/results.cfm

I think they are 00205, 5043. Anyway, when you tell the dealer about this, they will investigate/confirm your problem before applying these TSB.

Good luck!

wesrick · 07-09-2010, 05:10 PM

Yes, it's very strange.

I tested it again today at lunch.

When I got in the car, started the engine (still in park), I pressed the brake, and felt the vibration. But, when I pushed it again, there was no vibration. It's almost as if it was fine. I started rolling backward, and still, no vibration, until I got a ways down the road, and then felt another vibration.. but, if I sit there and try pressing it, or wait a couple of seconds, and try again, no vibration past the first time.

I think a master cylinder sounds reasonable, it does feel like a plunger sticking or something..

I'll have to ask the dealer again about a TSB for it, or possibly just buying a replacement master cylinder from them.

Thanks for all of the tips on this - truly helpful!!

-Rick

gdanaher · 07-09-2010, 07:08 PM

I still vote for a vacuum hose malfunction.