DIY: 2AZ-FE Water Pump and Belt Replacment

[Yuko]

This is my first DIY so any comments to improve the procedure will be gratefully received. I want to thank all the TN for posting their own DIYs and it’s my turn to give something back to the community.

I completed this procedure at 156,000 miles on my grandmother's 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine). It still has the original water pump but the belt had been change six years ago. Even though it wasn’t losing too much coolant, it's still a good idea to change it before the pump fails.

Applications
2002–2009 Toyota Camry
2009– Toyota Matrix
2009–2010 Pontiac Vibe
2009– Toyota Corolla
2002–2009 Toyota Solara
2004–2008 Toyota RAV4
2001–2008 Toyota Highlander
2005– Scion tC
2008– Scion xB
I may have miss some vechiles.

Disclaimer
Use this guide at your own risk. I nor TN assume no responsibility for any damage to your vehicle or personal injury as a result of following this guide.

Basic tools
Ratchet and socket set (3/8 and ¼)
Clean drain pan
Lug nut wrench
Jack and jack stand
Pliers
Funnel

Level 2 tools (Optional but recommend)
Torque wrench (in and foot lb)
C-cramp
Degreaser
Fender cover

Special Tools (Optional)
Pin Wrench (09960–10010) there’s an alternative way.
Serpentine tensioner tool (09249–63010) Didn't work for me.

Time Required
It took me 6 hours from start to finish, including time to take photos, and lunch. But it took me another hour to clean up. I think it could be done in about 3 hour.

Parts Needed
a) Water pump (In this case, Duralast) $55
b) Serpentine belt $20 (I find Gates and Master Pro to be better belts, and OEM)
c) Gasket sealant, RTV
d) A Gallon of Coolant $10


Let’s Start

Pull your vehicle into your favorite work area. I highly recommend disconnecting the battery but this Camry will forget how to idle, and I didn’t want to reset it. It’s a problem on most 2002-2004 Camry 4 cly.


Here, you can see the water pump leaking, located underneath the alternator.


Take advantage to loosen the 4 water pump pulley bolts (10mm) now with the belt on. (pic shown without belt) The belt will hold the pulley from turning. If you forget like I did, there will be alternative way later.


To remove the belt, the tensioner must be push down. There an area to put a ratchet onto and push forward and down. (orange arrow)


I tried the Autozone serpentine tool but there’s not enough room. So a 15 mm (I think, test fit a few socket) and a 3/8 ratchet with a pipe works, then slide off the belt.


Here’s the belt route drawn ouut.


Next, loosen and remove the two alternator bolts (green arrows), unplug the wires and remove the alternator.



If you left the battery connect, tape up the main changing lead to prevent shocks (red arrow). And remove the alternator from the engine.


Next, drain the coolant. There’s a drain plug at the bottom of the radiator (blue arrow). Unscrew it and will begin to drain, removing the radiator cap helps it drain faster.


Here is how I loosen the bolt with the belt off. I took the old belt and wrap it around the pull and cramp it down, it will substitute as Toyota’s pin wrench tool. Then with a 10mm wrench, remove the 4 bolts.


Remove the pulley from the pump. Now remove the 6 nuts and bolt around the pump. A ¼ drive set helps here.


Now the pump is loose, but the crankshaft position wire was still attached to the pump. It could be remove by pushing the pin out (yellow arrow) with pilers from behind.


It is optional to clean the crankshaft position sensor. To help route the new belt, set the parking brakes, jack up the front right, and when on a jack stand, remove the wheel.


Remove the two 10 mm bolts (orange arrow) that hold the splash shield in place.


Remove the 10 mm bolt that holds the crankshaft position sensor in. It will slide out, be careful not to rip the o-ring or wire. Replace if needed.


Back to the water pump. With everything out, you can see where the clip slide into the water pump hosing (violet arrow) remove it with a pliers if you haven't done so.


Compare the old to the new to be sure you have the correct replacement pump.


Degrease the side of the block; clean the position sensor area to with a rag (yellow arrow). Clean the sensor itself, there was some metal shavings on it. It’s a magnet.


Coat the new pump and clean block with the RTV. The new pump came with a paper gasket and I decided to use it.



As you bolt the pump on, there’s only two choice, bolts or nut. You can't mix it up. Torque them to 80 INCH lb.
Again that INCH, Not FOOT lb. A torque wrench is hard to get in there so guess with a ¼ drive ratchet. Remember to attach the metal retainers first (red arrows) as you install the bolt and nut. Push the plastic clip (blue arrow) back onto the water pump.


Oil up the sensor’s o-ring and side it into the block. Install the 10mm bolt.


The alternator has a metal sleeve that needs to be push back, install the bolt and hammer it gently to push it out (the way of the green arrow...)


Install the alternator and torque the “M8 bolt to 15 ft lb and M10 bolt to 38 ft lb” Thats what the spec reads, I just tighten them snugly. Plug the wire back on and be careful with the charging lead, I shock myself.


Install the pulley on and tighten the down the 4 bolts as much as possible. Install the belt by lowering the tensioner and routing the belt on, this took me a while with only myself. It helps to get another person to assist with the new belt. Now that the belt is on correctly, torque the four pulley bolts to 19 ft lb. I snug them because I didn’t have enough room for a torque wrench.


Tighten the radiator drain plug and fill the cooling system with fresh coolant. I was cheap and I filter the old red Toyota coolant with a coffee filter and pour it back in. (some of you might chew on me for that) Top it off with distilled water.


Install the splash shield and wheel. Torque the lug nuts to 80 ft lb. Remove the jack stand then lower the vehicle.


Start the vehicle and let it warm up, check for leaks. Then drive and keep an eye on the temperature gauge, listen for any strange noise, or weird driving characteristics. When everything is good and normal, give your Camry a good wash and wax. Stand back and admire your work for the day. (I still prefer my Gen 4.5 in the background)


Finally, clean the mess in the garage…


With the engine is cold, check the coolant level for the next few days, top off if neccessary. Hope this helps.

[gdanaher]

Nice job.

[iconman]

Thanks but look too complicated.

[sykou]

sticky maybe? of course after some grammatical corrections... NO offense meant...

[workerant]

6hrs.. wow. Awesomely done.

I'm curious if any1 tried doing this on a V6 Gen 6. I was told it's hell.

[Yuko]

Weird that this DIY is dead

[71Corolla]

I think a lot of people are afraid to tackle a project of this scope. Or it could have just slipped through the cracks, I had not seen this thread until now.

[Nervous]

Hmm... It looks as complicated as replacing timing belt on previous 4 cyl engine (5SFE; well, as tb on 1MZ too!)....

[RICO8458]

you are the master champion professor magna summa cum laude of the Camry sir. excellent DIY.

[BlackCamSe]

U participated in the ford/aaa competition as well? I just came in second place in the state of NJ.

[BlackG5]

Very nice write-up!! It should DEFINITELY be made a DIY sticky.. I know theres also a compression test write-up on the Scion tC forums, and probably a few more helpful notes we could add as well...


I'm at 180k now, Japan built I4, haven't replaced the water pump yet, but seriously thinking about doing it just for insurance...

[TrailDust]

It was included in the DIY sticky when I reorganized and updated it a year or so ago. Check under the sub-section Engine Maintenance, Modification & Repair.

[t3gtman]

Very good write up! now I know what to do in the future when the wife's water pump go's out. Also a little info that might be helpful,instead of RTV sealant ,I use a product called Honda Bond,Toyota probably has a similar product ,but the Honda Bond stay's soft while also creating a seal,won't break off like RTV.

[Yuko]

Originally Posted by BlackCamSe

U participated in the ford/aaa competition as well? I just came in second place in the state of NJ.

My partner and I came in third place in TX working on a little Ford Focus. Lost to first only because we forget to put the little red cover over one of the battery terminal and we wrote "green" instead of "grey" on other work order. But it was still fun.

Also, Thanks again mods for sticky-ing this.

[dude8370]

I honestly couldn't see the leak. Where specifically is it on the pump?