replace the "release cables" for the both the Trunk-lid and Fuel-door

[OldTechie]

[re: 2007 Camry-LE, 4-cyl, auto, US built]

Hello:

I need to replace the "release cables" for the both the Trunk-lid and Fuel-door.

What is the reccommended procedure to replace these "release-cables"?

Any Tips & Tricks?

Any Shortcuts ... i.e. like pulling NEW cables with the old-cables during removal ?

thnx for you knowledgable assistance and advice ...

Jeff K.

note :

I did locate the below post for a 2005 Camry ...
is the 2007 Camry procedure any different?
http://www.toyotafans.net/index.php?...39&#entry48539


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FYI ... additional info :

The release mechanisms for both the fuel-door and trunk-lip are fully functional.

It is only that the release-cables are binding somewhere between the ends.

Unfortunately due to some corrosion inside the release cables ( for both Fuel door and Truck-Lid), the release-cables are binding ( excess friction, chafing ) and not returning to the rest position after using the manual release levers ( next to drivers seat).

The corrosion (I believe) is from minor flooding in 2008 during hurricane IKE, when flood waters reached just into floorboard ( carpet was soaked ).

On at least 5 occasions, I have "fixed" the problem... temporarily ....
i.e. I made inside-cables "slide freely" and injected both WD-40 and silicone-spray lubrucants into both ends of the release cables to coat metal parts, Hoping that this would prevent release cables from further binding. ...

During each "repair-fix" , the release-cables are well lubricated and slide freely. After re-assembly, the fuel-door and trunk-lid open normally with the manual release lever (testing many times).

Unfortunately, after approximately 1+ week of NON-USE, the cables again bind-up and do-not return to the rest-position and again requiring disassembly at the manual lever and manually freeing the stuck-cable and re-lubrication.

[gdanaher]

I haven't had an opportunity to replace that cable and I'm OK with that, but I did have to replace the floor lever so I have at least touched those things. Keep trying to lube it. First WD40 will displace water but is not a long term lubricant and evaporates. That's why it only worked for a week. What you really need to get in there is some grease but for the life of me I don't know how you are going to do that without making a good mess. Second choice would be some motor oil of almost any weight. Back to the cable. I think you will need to pull both rocker panels on the two door sills to fish under the carpet and unhook it from the lever at the front. Be careful with that thing. The guy who did my pedal fix ruined mine and they wouldn't claim ownership of the problem.

[Glenn8963]

hey guys, for those of us that ride bikes, we have to lube our cables. how about a motorbike cable lube, something like this:

http://www.speedsupplies.com/accesso...asp?item=40952

or this:

Amazon

Amazon

or any other motorbike lube....??

[gdanaher]

That would solve the problem for the OP and probably cheaper than the cost of that cable assembly. He needs a way to force the grease up into the assembly.

[OldTechie]

yes, that is a major problem ... forcing a lubricant deep into middle of cable .

I have been using the little red straw with the silicone spray lube to fill the cable and let gravity drain the lube down , ... from both ends .... ( about 6 times, each end, each cable )

but, obvioulsy, it has NOT yet reached the corroded sections....

I do have the replacemnt cables & retainer ordered from www.toyotapartsamerica.com for ~$54

thnx for tips.

[Glenn8963]

Amazon

Amazon

you would insert the spray tube into a hole in this lube tool.

[wdoyle0447]

Try spraying some lithium grease in there.

[OldTechie]

Thanks for all the great tips on greasing old, corroded cables ,,, but ...

Do to corrosion, I am replacing the "release cables" for the both the Trunk-lid and Fuel-door.

What is the reccommended procedure to replace these "release-cables"?

Any Tips & Tricks?

Any Shortcuts ... i.e. like pulling NEW cables with the old-cables during removal ?

thnx for you knowledgable assistance and advice ...

note:
I did locate the below post for a 2005 Camry ...
http://www.toyotafans.net/index.php?...39&#entry48539

is the 2007 Camry procedure any different?

Jeff K.

[gdanaher]

I briefly read through the procedure and it is close enough. Basic Toyota engineering does not change much between generations. It is safe to say that nobody here has had to do this. By all means, grease the cables and let them hang vertically for awhile before you install them.

[MstrToyoTech]

gdanaher the grease injection needle for lubricating intermediate shaft splines would possible work.. I have that tool somewhere in my box, cant remember how thick it is though.

[OldTechie]

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tec...les/index.html

" ... Control cables come in two basic flavors. The first is the plain old multi-stranded wire surrounded by a spring steel-cover-style cable that's been around since day one. The second is the high-tech plastic, or more accurately Teflon-lined, variety.

In the main, the Teflon-lined cable needs no lubrication, and in fact oiling one may be detrimental to its health. Check your owner's or shop manual as to what, if any, type of lube is recommended.
Unlined cables should be lubricated using a dedicated aerosol spray and a pressure lubricator, available at any motorcycle shop. ... "

so the question is ?

are toyota cables teflon lined ?

[gdanaher]

The educated guess is -no. It would cost more and isn't related to highway safety. Having a teflon lined cable on a motorcycle brake cable is another matter.

[Glenn8963]

Originally Posted by MstrToyoTech

gdanaher the grease injection needle for lubricating intermediate shaft splines would possible work.. I have that tool somewhere in my box, cant remember how thick it is though.

something like this..??

http://www.jgbhose.com/static/810.asp#

[OldTechie]

Toyota's new cables are grease-free with smooth, free-running action.

Internally , they must have a "teflon" like , low-friction surface.

Except in an exteme case ( like mine ... i.e. flooding ) I can't see how "grease" could help this OEM action; as the installed cables are quite protected from road-grime or airborne dust & dirt.

In my googling "cable lubricant" , it was reported that some solvents for the aerosol-lubricants can damage the "teflon-like" surface of these cables.

YMMV