5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Hello, I have a little shaking in the steering wheel when braking medium hard from high speed in my 06 Camry V6 SE, with under 45K miles (and mostly smooth braking since new), so I decided on sending the front rotors to be turned for truing (plenty of metal still available).
It never dawned on me that the 2 rusted holes were there to aid in the removing of the rotors, so without knowing that, I first tried politely. Didn't work, so I used plenty of liquid wrench and heat up the immediate area where the rotor is frozen to the hub with a plumbers torch (yellow can, lots of heat) (I didn't go crazy, this area surely gets VERY hot on hard braking when going fast in the mountains), so after that I went from inside, and in the front area where the rotor is exposed and not covered by the metal shield, I hit the living day light out of the rotor with a heavy dead blow plastic mallet, to no avail. Tomorrow I'll try to push it out with 2 bolts, hope it works! And I'll use a little anti sizing lub there (or may be not, when hot it may slip to the breaking surface?).
Question, how can I find what is the best or better place to turn the rotors? Napa? Regular mechanic? A place that do nothing but brakes? Dealer?
Thank you!
Dario
Calipers, calipers, calipers, what exactly are those?
Yes, I did, and thank you for your answer. With the 2 extracting bolts the things come out much easier, and luckily I found a machine shop nearby that turns rotors at $15 each, same day service; and when I put them back I'll make sure I use a minimalistic quantity of anti-seize lube in the area that freezes.
Dario
I wouldn't know the pitch (is not thin, looks like regular thread), but the diameter is exactly 8 millimeters, and they don't need to be long, just about 2 inches. Lubricating the threads lightly will help immensely. I'd run to Home Depot or Lowes and use steel bolts.
Toyota wants you to mark the position of the rotor so you put it back in the same position, but you really don't need to do that, as the marks left in the hub from the extracting bolts are perfect; just make sure you mark right and left rotors to avoid mixing them, which in reality I don't think it should matter that much, as the rotors will be turned to new surfaces anyway.
However, pay attention to this: The run-out of the rotors should not be more than 0.05 millimeters, and you check that as follows:
Temporarily put the rotors and tight them to about 76 LBS-Ft (leave the calipers alone).
Attach some piece of metal firmly to the shock absorber. This piece must come out passing the rotors a few inches, and close to the edge of the rotors but not touching them.
Attach another perfectly straight (a metal ruler, any thing that is perfectly straight) and position it securely almost touching the outside braking area of the rotor. It must be as close as possible but without touching it.
Now without disturbing the contraption, turn the rotor by hand slowly and look to see if it stays at the same distance of the contraption. It must.
There is a set-up to check the run-out accurately, but we don't have it, so if you can more or less judge 0.05 mm., this check will do (by the way, 0,05 mm. is basically next to nothing).
If the run-out exceeds 0.05mm., take all the lugs off, and insert the rotor in a different position (i.e. turn it one or 2 holes either way). Torque the lugs again, and check again. Do this until you can see that there is next no run-out.
Should you encounter excessive run-out (which is rare in a vehicle that has not jumped many curbs....), Toyota's shop manual offers several solutions but these are better done at the dealer or a suspension tuner.
I've learned all this just by checking the shop manual. Good luck!
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