5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just pulled out and replaced my 2002 camry 1mzfe v6 with a low mileage one. mine sludged up and one cylinder went out. cheaper to replace than rebuild.
job went fine. followed manual carefully ($4 on ebay by the way!). torqued everything religiously.
everything back together, hood on, tires on, everything finished. turned key. fired right up. immediately a rubbing sound ensued. sounds almost like when you run your brakes down to the indicator metal.
i can pretty well tell that it's the flywheel vibrating and rubbing on something. i torqued the wheel to the motor and then mounted motor to transaxle. installed and torqued the reverse bolts to hold wheel to torque converter.
what could be causing this noise, and do i need to pull it all back out again to remedy it? or can i get under and go through the little access panel and make some kind of adjustment. if i have to pull the motor back out again, i think i might throw up...
I just pulled out and replaced my 2002 camry 1mzfe v6 with a low mileage one. mine sludged up and one cylinder went out. cheaper to replace than rebuild.
job went fine. followed manual carefully ($4 on ebay by the way!). torqued everything religiously.
everything back together, hood on, tires on, everything finished. turned key. fired right up. immediately a rubbing sound ensued. sounds almost like when you run your brakes down to the indicator metal.
i can pretty well tell that it's the flywheel vibrating and rubbing on something. i torqued the wheel to the motor and then mounted motor to transaxle. installed and torqued the reverse bolts to hold wheel to torque converter.
what could be causing this noise, and do i need to pull it all back out again to remedy it? or can i get under and go through the little access panel and make some kind of adjustment. if i have to pull the motor back out again, i think i might throw up...
even though you torque everything, you might still have a "mis-alignment" of the transaxle and engine. something could have fallen between the engine/transaxle, that actually prevented everything to be aligned properly. the torquing of the bolts would have still taken place, because the bolts would not know there was a misalignment. i suggest you carefully look over every square inch of the mating surfaces to be sure everything is completely matched up. one small area, and you are unbolting and re-bolting/re-torquing. hey, better than removing it all over again.
one other slight possibility though.......on some flywheels, there is a spacer between the flywheel and the crankshaft. if this is missing, or installed backwards, you will get this rubbing as well. same can be said if the flywheel had a 'flex plate', and that got re-installed backwards. it would have been easy for the flywheel spacer to have either fallen off the crankshaft OR it got stuck on the old engine. you need to check the ground, and the old engine, to see if its stills around. if it is, well.......you're pulling that engine again........
At best you will pull the transaxle out. With the grinding you will immediately see what is touching what and from there you will find the fix. Yes, there might be a shim behind the flywheel that is missing. It might just be that simple. I hope so.
You might consider pulling the spark plugs out to make it easy to spin the crank and from that you might find the problem or get the location better defined.
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2007 V6 Camry LE, Built TMMK 27 September 06
"People who think they know it all are particularly irritating to those of us who do."
during reassembly, there was one spacer behind the flywheel (am i calling it the wrong thing? is it really called the flexplate?) because i had it halfway back on when i noticed it sitting on the old motor. so i know for sure that it's on the new one. then i put on the wheel, then i put on another spacer/washer thing with it's flare pointing toward the torque converter.
my plan is to pull the plugs so i can really get the thing spinning and hopefully recreate the noise without actually firing it up, but first i am going to start it and then remove the starter and just make sure it's not the wheel and the starter still touching somehow. that might give me a view of what's rubbing.
is it possible to pull the transaxle without pulling the whole motor?
during reassembly, there was one spacer behind the flywheel (am i calling it the wrong thing? is it really called the flexplate?) because i had it halfway back on when i noticed it sitting on the old motor. so i know for sure that it's on the new one. then i put on the wheel, then i put on another spacer/washer thing with it's flare pointing toward the torque converter.
my plan is to pull the plugs so i can really get the thing spinning and hopefully recreate the noise without actually firing it up, but first i am going to start it and then remove the starter and just make sure it's not the wheel and the starter still touching somehow. that might give me a view of what's rubbing.
is it possible to pull the transaxle without pulling the whole motor?
yes it is possible to remove only the transaxle, but you would have to drop the cradle (sub frame) and personally, i think that's more work than taking the engine out.
that spacer you placed back with the "flare" could have been installed wrong. as i cannot see what you speak of, i cannot be positive.
now, typically a 'flex plate" is about the same size as the fly wheel, give or take an inch or two. a "shim" or "spacer" would be much smaller in diameter, about maybe 3" round, with holes drilled into it for the bolts to pass through. the flex plate can also be installed backwards as well, as "some" flex plates are directional, meaning they only go on one way, no matter how they look. i'm still thinking you have a "clearance" problem due to the shim/spacer. next would be a misaligned engine/transaxle mating surface.
i pulled the starter out while it was running and the noise disappeared. i bought a $4.99 shim kit from checker. shimmed out the starter 1/32" and problem solved. thanks!
I'm glad you didn't pull it back out again. It's just a nightmare to redo it.
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2009 Camry SE || Techstream V.6.0 with Openport 2.0 || TSX 4300K Denso
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I think having worked on so many cars in over 30 years, That's one heckuva story really...i always seem to miss the simple solutions like that!
thank goodness it turned out to be such an easy fix...the nice kind of surprise that happens occasionally.
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