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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 10-31-2010, 12:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Hi guys, is this normal???

I have a 2003 2AZ-FE that's done very low miles. Question is, the engine revs at a constant 1500rpm when warm and on neutral or park. In my opinion this is way too high, isn't it? On drive, it revs at a constant 900rpm.
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:03 PM   #2 (permalink)
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You should be around 700 rpm in park warmed up
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Old 10-31-2010, 01:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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@BlackCam Se: thanks for the quick reply, what could cause the high idle speeds? its a car thats only done 26k miles and the engine looks practically new, so i dont want to imagine its a vacuum leak or something like that. I must say its a car Ive just bought the other day so i dont have its full service history but what i can tell right now is that it has a failed brake light switch (it works intermittently) and an extremely dirty air filter. everything else seems A++
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Old 10-31-2010, 02:24 PM   #4 (permalink)
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when it's really cold, in the winter, my car idles around 1500 too but then drops as it warms up
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Old 10-31-2010, 04:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbipu View Post
I have a 2003 2AZ-FE that's done very low miles. Question is, the engine revs at a constant 1500rpm when warm and on neutral or park. In my opinion this is way too high, isn't it? On drive, it revs at a constant 900rpm.
whether it be hot muggy days or freezing cold, when you first start the car it'll idle high then gradually come down. (winter time, it might idle higher for a few more seconds) mine comes down to about 700-800 RPM's then i put it into gear, and go. for it to idle that high, a sensor is not working properly. which one, i ain't sure, but some thermal one i would imagine, like a coolant perhaps, or cylinder head sensor. get it checked out and repaired. its not going into the proper "loop" when its supposed to. i would check some obvious things first. clean battery connections, proper mixture of anti-freeze, and proper protection of anti freeze, to "about" 30 below zero. it could be a bad or soon to fail, coolant thermostat as well. so get it scanned to confirm.
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Old 10-31-2010, 06:50 PM   #6 (permalink)
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vacuum hose
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Old 10-31-2010, 07:38 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cardsfanpb View Post
vacuum hose
If it was a vacuum hose the engine would be stumbling and misfireing. Try disconnecting the battery overnight to reset the computer.
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Old 10-31-2010, 11:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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It's interesting someone mentioned the battery, why I say this is that I read somewhere that the engine will rev/idle high when the battery charge is low. To confirm this, I went out with a multimeter after the car had sat overnight and sure enough the battery was at around 11.3 volts. Opposite of what Glenn says, mine idles low when the car is warming up and high, when it does warm up. The engine runs so smooth all in all, I love this car to death and I've just had it for two weeks :-)

One more thing, before i bought the car, it had sat for several months without being driven as the owner (who had moved out the country) looked for a new owner.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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If it has sat for that long and not been started you need to change all fluids. And change that air filter.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:28 AM   #10 (permalink)
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If it has sat for that long and not been started you need to change all fluids. And change that air filter.
The filter does need to be changed, im doing that in the next few hrs. Even though the car had sat for that long, I thought that if i drove the thing around then it should re-learn the proper idle points? Ive been riving it ever since and no luck.
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Old 11-01-2010, 12:38 AM   #11 (permalink)
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If you haven't changed the oil especially, it won't run right. All that gunk is gonna ruin the performance of the motor. I would do a flush, and add some fuel injector cleaner on your next fill up.
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Old 11-01-2010, 07:50 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Well, just changed the air filter and....... Nothing! still idling at 1500rpm on park and neutral and 900rpm on Drive. One thing I did notice is that new filter minus maf sensor was way better then old filter minus maf sensor, by better i mean the engine was running much smoother without much sputtering. New filter minus maf sensor was idling at 900rpm. Btw, my car is the japanese version of Lexus RX330 in the states. Its called Toyota Harrier, It has the 2AZ-FE though.

Last edited by rbipu; 11-01-2010 at 07:53 AM.
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Old 11-01-2010, 04:16 PM   #13 (permalink)
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As long as the engine doesnt have any performance issues and there isnt a CEL on, I wouldnt worry about it.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:57 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The cars performance is out of this world, im coming from the first generation harrier and the difference in performance alone is outstanding! with that said, i'm in the process of doing a one hour ecu reset (pulled out negative terminal) and if that does not sort it, then i'll quit worrying about it. There is no CEL on btw.
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Old 11-17-2010, 12:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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So i finally solved the issue and thought I should report back just in case someone somewhere might find him/herself in the same predicament. My car now idles at a constant 750rpm when warmed up, the problem was carbon buildup on the IAC valve. I removed it completely and cleaned it with a throttle cleaner. Previously I tried cleaning the throttle body but that didnt help. Thanks to all those who chipped in.
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