stipped wheel studs

[Twiztedxtasy]

did a pretty thorough attempt at searching (lug nuts, stripped bolts, wheel studs, etc.) guess no one has yet to come across this problem or they just know how to do it themselves.
anyways, was playing with fitment, and my friend over torqued one of my wheel studs so now the first 1/4" of one of my studs are completely stripped.

anyone know how much the dealership would charge to do a replacement? or if anyone can tell me where to buy and in what size wheel studs online, or even a good diy video. any help or info would be greaaaat!

[gdanaher]

This is not rocket science here. Go to the dealer parts counter, get a lug stud for your application, take it home, pull the wheel, knock out the old one and press in the new one. There is a place on the back of the wheel assembly designed to allow this. Just turn the hub until the bad stud lines up and whack it. Tap in the new one from the back side and get it to seat squarely.

[joshuaboston]

You may have to disassemble your brakes to get access... not sure

BUT...
if you can't do it yourself (like me). Go to the dealership... buy the part and then go to a hack garage (I call any non chain garage a hack garage). They may charge you between $40 - $80 to fix it.

Fix it soon cause it is not safe.

[kenny1773]

pretty much what gdanaher said, only I would not buy the replacement part from the dealer.

NAPA has high quality studs at less then half the cost of the dealer.

If you take the wheel off and get behind the stud and look you will see how it come out, might need to tap on the end of the stud gently to knock it loose.

[Twiztedxtasy]

ty ty. so theres a little gap in which i can tap studs out without having to remove the rotor/calipers/etc? sweet ill check it out. anyone know our stud size by any chance? >.>

[gdanaher]

I suggested getting the stud from the dealer because it will be the correct part. You can go to NAPA and get it cheaper but you will need the old one to compare to. There are hundreds of stud varieties--diameter, thread, length, knirling patterns---too much trouble to try and save 50 cents. I would never trust a NAPA guy to give me the correct bolt for that car. Too many things to go wrong. They are cheap. Go to the dealer.

[GT-R]

Originally Posted by Twiztedxtasy

ty ty. so theres a little gap in which i can tap studs out without having to remove the rotor/calipers/etc? sweet ill check it out. anyone know our stud size by any chance? >.>

Do you mind posting a DIY pics or video while you're at it? Thanks man.

[csaxon]

Here you go. No it's not me and this pictures a joke..






If you can't press it in, then pull it through. Note the washer used. Add more washers as needed to pull the stud through.

[kenny1773]

Originally Posted by gdanaher

I suggested getting the stud from the dealer because it will be the correct part. You can go to NAPA and get it cheaper but you will need the old one to compare to. There are hundreds of stud varieties--diameter, thread, length, knirling patterns---too much trouble to try and save 50 cents. I would never trust a NAPA guy to give me the correct bolt for that car. Too many things to go wrong. They are cheap. Go to the dealer.

Dealer here charges $6
NAPA charges $1.25

I have never been given an incorrect stud or lug for either of my camry's or the RAV 4 and I have never taken in the old one to compare.

I am glad you earn enough money that you can needlessly burn it on dealer markup, some of us are not that wealthy and every dollar saved helps.

The tire shops around me screw up my lugs on a regular basis and then deny it was them. I have replaced at least 20 studs over the last 10 years using NAPA parts, never a problem.

[gdanaher]

Wow! I can honestly say that I haven't replaced 5 lug bolts in 50 years, and the last one was maybe 8 years ago. I had to go to 3 parts stores before I found the right one, and that needed to be matched up. As for money, Toyota wants $2.60 for a lug bolt for my Camry. So I can save $1.35 by going to a NAPA store and hoping they have the right one that matches. The Toyota store is closer than the NAPA store, for me anyway. So I am going to drive farther to save $1.35, right? I'm sorry your time is cheap. Mine is not. If I take off during the work day it costs about $1.10/minute. I prefer not to fumble around, trying to find the right bolt out of a collection at the parts counter while Bubba sips on his Diet Coke. I call the Toyota parts counter, talk to Steve, and he puts what I need in will call for a quick pick up. I can do this at lunch and still have time for Lo Mein. Some of you guys are willing to spend hundreds or thousands for carbon fiber hoods, cold air ducts and great stereo systems but cut corners on such things as a bolt that holds your wheel to the car. Go, figure.

[Twiztedxtasy]

Originally Posted by GT-R

Do you mind posting a DIY pics or video while you're at it? Thanks man.

[Twiztedxtasy]

meh, so i tried to do it myself, ended up breaking a socket. and yes it was the right socket. so i ended up going to toyota, gave me a quote of 160 so i told them to go die. bought the studs at toyota for 7 a pop (hella op) and took it a local wheel/tire shop that my friend uses and they quoted me 35 bucks. Crazy difference, right? anyways, couldnt snap pics, but i was watching the whole time. I'll give a short write up on how to change your rear studs, in case anyone wants to do install their extended studs (i know ill be doing so.), but feels intimidated on undertaking it themselves.

- take your lugs/rims/spacers off
- take your caliper off (i believe they are 2 12mm bolts on the top and bottom of the caliper)
**when you take off the caliper, it will only be attached by a hose, what the guy did was take a zip tie and suspended the caliper by attaching it to one of the coils of the spring. the hose is delicate, and you dont want to add stress to it.
- now when you see the hub/rotor, youd think theyre two seperate pieces. not in the rear. gently tap your rotor out form behind (pref a plastic or rubber mallet to not warp your rotor) and it should fall out easily in one piece
-now you have full access to your studs and w/e that plate that holds it is called. theres a 2 inch space behind the studs to easily knock them out. it sort of looks like this [ ] and theres a slot in which to pull them out/insert new ones.
-when knocking out the studs, you want to try and swing with firm, strong swings to get it out in 1 hit. hitting it softly, many times, can lead the the bolt butterflying and making it so it wont fit through the hole.
-knock them out, replace them. pull the new stud through as far as you can, then add two washers (or more) to the threaded side, then use an acorn nut to pull the stud through so it is firmly seated.
-repeat for all the studs needed to be replaced. and put everything back together.