5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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In the past when I changed antifreeze I drained what I could from the radiator drain, refilled with distilled water, ran the engine for a little, drained again. Then if I was going to flush I would add the flush and fill with distilled water. Run it 'til hot and for maybe ten minutes more. Then drain and flush two or three more times (depending on how much I was able to drain out). Add full concentration antifreeze for half the capacity of the system and add water 'til full.
But, nowadays the antifreeze is 50-50 mix. Any water you can't drain out will dilute this mix and I don't see any way to overcome that.
How do others deal with this? If you say you can drain all the water out, I have never been able to do that. There are always places in the engine where water gets trapped.
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Two Camrys. '94 6cyl & '04 4cyl
In the past when I changed antifreeze I drained what I could from the radiator drain, refilled with distilled water, ran the engine for a little, drained again. Then if I was going to flush I would add the flush and fill with distilled water. Run it 'til hot and for maybe ten minutes more. Then drain and flush two or three more times (depending on how much I was able to drain out). Add full concentration antifreeze for half the capacity of the system and add water 'til full.
But, nowadays the antifreeze is 50-50 mix. Any water you can't drain out will dilute this mix and I don't see any way to overcome that.
How do others deal with this? If you say you can drain all the water out, I have never been able to do that. There are always places in the engine where water gets trapped.
if not done correctly there will be air trapped in the cooling system creating a heck of a time to get rid of it, which CAN CAUSE the engine to over heat and do a whole lot of damage like warping the cylinder head, creating even MORE money to be spent.... just take it to a garage and PAY for a flush and refill. everything should be there, cleaning chemicals, additives, antifreeze, and WATER. in a matter of less than 1 hour, the car is done and good for another 2 years or more, depending on the brand/type of anti freeze used.
Guys. Keep this on topic and be nice. Violations ARE being given out. Thanks!
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
That's one thing I don't like about pre-mixed antifreeze. You're supposed to use the expensive antifreeze to "flush".
Try to find Peak Global concentrated at NAPA. It's a non-2EHA (a plasticizer) formulation. Maybe they can special order?
Both Valvoline Asian Vehicles and Peak Global now are 50%-50% too.
Quote:
Originally Posted by i_am_jim
In the past when I changed antifreeze I drained what I could from the radiator drain, refilled with distilled water, ran the engine for a little, drained again. Then if I was going to flush I would add the flush and fill with distilled water. Run it 'til hot and for maybe ten minutes more. Then drain and flush two or three more times (depending on how much I was able to drain out). Add full concentration antifreeze for half the capacity of the system and add water 'til full.
But, nowadays the antifreeze is 50-50 mix. Any water you can't drain out will dilute this mix and I don't see any way to overcome that.
How do others deal with this? If you say you can drain all the water out, I have never been able to do that. There are always places in the engine where water gets trapped.
I don't to de-rail this thread, but what's the deal with the Peak stuff. FULL system flush just to run it?
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'07 Honda Ruckus Big Bore TOTALED: '03 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 4x4 5.4L, '96 Camry LE 5S May '10: '11 Sienna V6 XLE FWD 8-pass. July '10: '06 Matrix XR Auto FWD Oct. '09: '05 RAV-4 L 4WD
Most (including dealers) just do a drain/refill these days, but some actually run clean water through the system.
In the latter case, full strength antifreeze is needed to reach 50%-50% concentration, because there is water in the block. When using pre-diluted it takes too much antifreeze (and $$$) to reach 50%-50%.
And the only long life, non-2EHA, full-strength antifreeze these days is the Peak Global. And I don't think you can even find this anymore. No, I won't use 2EHA antifreeze in systems not designed for it (like that Prestone All-Makes stuff).
Quote:
Originally Posted by LynchburgCSI
I don't to de-rail this thread, but what's the deal with the Peak stuff. FULL system flush just to run it?
After draining and whatever else you like to do - refill radiator and overflow tank.
Leave radiator cap off. Fit a thick sock over the radiator spout. Don't stuff the sock into the radiator - fit the open end of sock over the top of the radiator spout where the cap attaches to like you'd fit a skull cap on top of your head. Start motor and turn on heater.
Let car idle for 15 - 20 mins.
You'll likely notice at this point that the air temp coming out of heater is not hot - that's the trapped air thing.
Stomp on the gas pedal - you don't have to go crazy - but give it a good blip. Wait a few secs for things to recover - then do again 2 or 3 more times - waiting a bit between each throttle blip. Afterwards - you should feel warm air coming out of the heater.
You're using the water pump to push coolant thru the system and air out the top of the opened radiator. The sock keeps the surge of coolant from getting all over other things.
This is far less messy than the Prestone gadget that fits into the top of the radiator to direct coolant flow outward. More often than not, this thing doesn't fit the radiator anyway and if it does - you still end up with a mess.
Sounds "hill-billy" but it's served me well for many years.
No trapped air problems.
Last edited by Mike Murrell; 04-13-2011 at 06:17 PM.
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