5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
2006 Camry XLE V6, 119,000 miles on it now, just got it 3 weeks ago. According to the service manual, spark plugs need to be replaced at 120,000 miles.
The bank closest to the radiator looks very easy for spark plug replacements.
The bank closest to the firewall looks challenging. Is there a way to replace all 3 spark plugs on this bank without removing the entire throttle body / intake manifold assembly? I don't see how, but perhaps some of you in this forum have learned some tricks on maintaining this engine that you would be willing to share.
We just did my plugs a few weeks ago..it's a pain in the ass basically have to rip the whole engine apart, intake, TB, etc. And you might as well do the valve cover gaskets while you're at it.
Umm I did mine in about an hour by removing the air filter assembly, strut bar and throttle body. Also removed the butterfly-valve assembly located on the passenger side of the air intake and laid it to the side. After this, lay a blanket on the radiator/engine so you can lean on it. You will be working blind, reaching one arm around each side of the intake plenum, but can occasionally look in from the side to see where everything is. Take your time, and use a good combination of socket extensions/universal joints. I also found a small retractable magnet to be priceless in pulling out the spark plugs.
The Following User Says Thank You to jermag24 For This Useful Post:
I had ASG14(member here) an very well experienced Toyota mechanic and enthusiast work on it, in probably 20 degree weather and it took around 3-4 hours from start to finish with a few breaks in between. He did the gaskets and pcv valve as well.
I'm not saying it can't take an hour, but to do it properly and all that i'd allow 3+ hours.
I got a PCV valve and grommet a couple weeks ago. The new PCV valve didn't function right, according to the service manual, but the old one tested out just fine. The old grommet was seeping out some oil, so just changing the PCV grommet sealed the seepage great. The valve covers don't have any evidence of any oil seepage, at least from what I can see on the radiator side of the engine. The engine appears dry on the firewall side too, when looking up from underneath. So I'll assume the valve cover gaskets are good.
Jermag24, when you removed the throttle body, did you also remove the intake manifold? If not, I don't see how much extra space you get if the intake manifold is not also removed. What did removing the strut bag provide as a benefit for access?
No, I didn't remove the intake manifold. Removing the throttle body gives you more clearance to get your arms around the back of the manifold.
And you were able to remove the spark plug wires with the intake manifold still in place, over the top of the valve cover, on the firewall side?
You must have assembled and disassembled short socket extensions as you lowered the spark plug socket itself down, and lifted it back out, I'll assume?
If so, at least I know this method can work. Wasn't sure if it would, but if you were successful, then I'm sure others can do it also.
Yes, as you pull the coil packs/spark plug boots out, you slightly bend them toward the firewall to remove them. They are flexible rubber, it won't hurt them. After that, I fed a spark plug socket with a 3" extension down each tube, hooked up a ratchet and loosened the spark plug. Once loose, I pulled the ratchet off, and used the magnet to pull the socket extension out, then the socket, then the spark plug. Installation is the reverse of this. You can use a 1/4" drive ratchet with a 10mm socket to take the coils off, and use a 3/8" drive set for the spark plugs.
i dont' understand changing 1mz v6 plugs take 3 or 4 hours, unless also doing valve cover gasket, i did all 6 plugs 1/2 dozen times, and only 30 minutes job from start to finish, for the rear bank, do it from top of the engine with lot of 1/4" extension, swival. it is a tight space, but definitely doable
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