5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
I just got this 2002 Camry LE I4 with 95k miles for my wife. Before I hand this off to her, I want to do a FULL refresh of most of the parts that tend to weaken with age. I thought this would be a simple task, but I ran into a roadblock. There are so many different manufacturers for each part, and the prices vary CONSIDERABLY. I don't want to buy a part that is on sale, only to find that it's inferior. How would you rate some of the manufacturers for these parts? If you even have recommended part numbers, that would be great. Also, if you have recommended suppliers and/or websites, that would be helpful.
Here is my current list of items to be replaced:
(Note: I was using the drivewire.com site as a reference for the different parts)
Thermostat
KUZEH THERMOSTAT
$21
Other brands: Gates, Beck Arnley, Stant
Radiator Hose - Upper
Gates, Dayco
Radiator Hose - Lower
Gates, Dayco
Radiator Cap
?
Transmission fluid
Toyota, ?
Transmission filter
Hastings, OES, Mark, Replacement
NOTE: I am really concerned about this, since the prices vary so much and I don't want to harm the transmission or it's lifespan.
Control arm bushing
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
Rear sway bar bushings
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
Front sway bar bushings
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
You're right about the 120k miles. I always thought it was 100k for iridium for some reason. Now that you mention it, I remember reading about the NGK laser plugs. Thanks for the info!
Transmission filter update: I see a Hastings filter kit with gasket for $18 (on drivewire.com). Right below, I see an "OES Genuine" brand kit for $40. Most of the others are also $40+. I'd much rather pay $18, but the huge price difference makes me worry about quality. I want this transmission to last another 100K miles.
Me... I would have no problem changing the spark plugs between 80K- 120K.
I am not sure if I would go and try to change all those parts. I would be more interested in changing the fluides, that is flushing the tranny fluid (I would probably do at a dealer - but only thing that I would do at a dealer), draining the radiator fluid.
Then I would be inspecting the brakes... and tires... when was the last time the pads/rotors were changed? I change my brake fluides when I change out my brakes. How are the tires? Do you think she will need winter tires? I'm buying mine tomorrow.
Camry's are funny cars, some things could last a really long long long time. So I think you should fix things when they brake.
Is there something wrong with the bushings? I would to OEM toyota or try to get a high end after market product (they sold higher end stuff for my Celica, not sure about a Camry).
Things done recently: Brake pads, tires, serpentine belt.
Though the brake pads were changed, I'm not sure if the fluid was replaced, so I will definitely work on that.
Her car feels a bit sloppy compared to my 2007 Camry (struts are getting tired), so I'm planning on getting some Camry SE equivalent struts (I loved how my 2005 Camry SE handled) this Spring. I figured I would try and replace the bushings to tighten things up a bit more. My biggest pet peeve is not having a perfectly snug suspension. If it costs more than $30 to do it myself, I may just wait until the struts are done and see how things change.
For the radiator parts (hoses, cap, etc), I'm just trying to prevent a future problem. The most common cause of death for cars in my family has been a hose popping or thermostat sticking, causing the car to overheat. The hoses look pretty good, so I may hold off on that for now. You can usually tell when a hose is getting ready to fail anyways.
I almost wonder if I can get away with cleaning and re-using the existing transmission filter (I'd still buy new gaskets). Maybe I'll do some forum searches to see what people have said in the past.
I like the idea of snow tires, especially with the Boston winters. I'll have to check that out.
Instead of changing the struts.. if the old one's are still good. You may want to put in a front stabilizer bar and perhaps change out the rear with a stronger one... that may tighten the car up more then new struts... (this is just a thought). You may be able to find second hand (used) parts on ebay or craigslist... CHEAP!!!
With my last car I purchased a short shifter, TRD exhaust, Injen CAI all on craigslist for 10cents on the dollar. Best and worst investment I have ever made... I think the modes played havic with my CEL... but I have no proof, at the same time I loved those modes.
If the color of the brake fluids look good... I would not worry about it.
Last edited by joshuaboston; 11-28-2010 at 11:16 AM.
Thermostat
KUZEH THERMOSTAT
$21
Other brands: Gates, Beck Arnley, Stant
If there's no problem now, tell her to pull over if the temp gauge goes full right. OEM toyota is damn good, lasts, and best choice.
Quote:
Radiator Hose - Upper
Gates, Dayco
Radiator Hose - Lower
Gates, Dayco
In my experience it doesn't matter who you buy it from. I have never changed the hoses more then once for every of the 10 cars i have owned including my Nissan truck (sadly dumped due to Calif smog bullshet) with almost 300,000 miles.
Quote:
Radiator Cap
?
It will tell you if it needs it. Examine the cap, spring and seal. Any rust, torn seal, spring seem weak? I work on motors for a living, probably the last thing you'd need to replace. Very reliable.
Quote:
Transmission fluid
Toyota, ?
i'd do a drain and refill. i don't pull the pan, because of the following 1-in my experience, usually does not need it. 2-on your gen camry it may be a cleanable strainer not a filter 3-i figure change the fluid once a year and this will be sufficient.
Quote:
Transmission filter
Hastings, OES, Mark, Replacement
NOTE: I am really concerned about this, since the prices vary so much and I don't want to harm the transmission or it's lifespan.
See above. Change the fluid every year and leave that Godamn pan and filter alone. And you will get the most life you are going to get out of it.
Quote:
Control arm bushing
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
Rear sway bar bushings
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
Front sway bar bushings
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
[/QUOTE]
Since you own it and bought it knowing these things, you can have it done or do it yourself. All the manufacturers are sufficient. Buy a pickle fork and a saturday and you can probably do it yourself except for alignment.
I bought a lifetime alignment with Firestone when i bought my 2002 V6 in 2006. cost me $130.
If you have it done i'm guessing it will cost you around $500. If you are going to do that, have them replace the lower ball joints too, as these are the the most stressed part of the suspension.
Last edited by AlmightyCamry777; 11-28-2010 at 07:37 PM.
Check prices on rockauto.com (use the 5% TN member discount code somewhere) and verify the correct application on the manufactueres' websites. For example:
NGK Laser Iridium (with platinum ground pad for 120K mile intervals)
IFR6T11
I'd probably pull them every 30K miles and apply a dab of anti-seize 3 threads away from the tip and inspect. Use a torque wrench to tighten. Find them at Harbor Freight.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andym1978
Thermostat
KUZEH THERMOSTAT
$21
Use only OEM (OES) Kuzeh thermostats. I've never found a decent aftermarket one for domestic or import cars. Stant and Gates carry the "OE" style, and these may be from Kuzeh, but I'm not sure. But don't use the cheap aftermarket style with a smaller thermo bulb and no jiggle valve.
Either one is fine. I prefer Gates belts and hoses. They should all be using EPDM rubber these days. However, I also like the Dayco timing belts that are made by Conti (?) in Italy.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andym1978
Radiator Cap
Stant should be fine, or get Toyota OEM. I'd change it with the coolant. It's cheap enough. If you want to keep using it, make sure the rubber seal doesn't have a deep imprint from the radiator.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andym1978
Transmission fluid
Toyota, ?
The Aisin U-series transmission uses dino Mobil-3309 (relabeled as Toyota T-IV). The T-IV is not regarded as a good fluid in Bob is the Oil Guy discussions (BITOG). So use Castrol Import Multi-vehicle ATF (synthetic blend). Or check out the Walmart SuperTech Mercon-V (also suitable for T-IV last time I checked). Drain/refill every 15K mile, and change out the filter at 30K mile intervals (every other ATF change). I'd prefer a more frequent change interval rather than going fully synthetic, in which case Valvoline MaxLife is a choice (the newest Mobil-1 is no longer suitable for T-IV).
Use OEM if you have doubts. Others can supply online Toyota dealers selling parts cheap. The Wix one or Beck Arnley pictures on rockauto look fine. I'm not sure about the Fram one (I don't see the felt media or gasket).
The U-series filter is a felt filter, so it does plug up with time. This is different from the older "strainer" they put in the A-series transmissions. I'd change it no longer than 30K miles. If you're fast at it, every 15K miles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andym1978
Control arm bushing Rear sway bar bushings Front sway bar bushings
OES, Beck/Arnley, Moog, AST
OEM or Moog (which often reboxes OEM anyway). Do consider pricing out Dorman control arms before you try to swap out the bushings on these newer, weaker control arms.
@joshuaboston
I was considering putting better stabilizer bars on this car anyways, so I guess it wouldn't hurt to try that first. I don't want to put a bigger rear stabilizer bar on her car, because I want to maintain the understeer characteristics (I love a little oversteer, but my wife would freak out).
@AlmightyCamry777
Wow! Thank you for the extensive info and advice (and the time you put into it)! That answers most of my questions about what's worth replacing. I feel much better about your advice regarding the transmission pan and filter. I feel much better leaving the pan alone, especially if it's not leaking.
@JohnGD
Yet another great tip filled post. It's great to have someone else with more experience recommend some of these manufacturers whom I've never heard of before. I never thought to add anti-seize compound to the plugs, and will definitely use that tip.
As a side note, I just did some looking again under the hood, and noticed that the center bolt in the strut tower under the hood moves a little as I push down on the car (I was checking for strut wear using the bounce test). I have a feeling this is normal, but want to confirm. The other car I checked for comparison had a cap over this center bolt, so I couldn't see any movement.
As always, this forum has proved a valuable resource and I sincerely appreciate the thoughtful and free advice. Thank you all for your time!
You're welcome. People have different preferences as to what to do and what to use naturally. But after a while you'll see what we usually agree on and so forth, and you can decide what you want to do with the car.
Yes, the strut rod movement would be normal. The strut rod is tightened to a flange isolated in the middle of the rubber inside the strut mount. When the rubber gets old and tears off from the metal is when you may hear clunks over bumps like a rubber mallet is knocking inside. That's why the mount should be changed with the strut.
Quote:
Originally Posted by andym1978
As a side note, I just did some looking again under the hood, and noticed that the center bolt in the strut tower under the hood moves a little as I push down on the car (I was checking for strut wear using the bounce test). I have a feeling this is normal, but want to confirm. The other car I checked for comparison had a cap over this center bolt, so I couldn't see any movement.
As always, this forum has proved a valuable resource and I sincerely appreciate the thoughtful and free advice. Thank you all for your time!
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