where is the idle air control valve openning? - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums


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5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011) Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011 Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.

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Old 12-11-2010, 11:06 PM   #1 (permalink)
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where is the idle air control valve openning?

My 2003 Camry (GEN5 2.4L 2AZ-FE) developed a cold start problem. When engine is cold, I have to crank many times and also pump gas in order for it to start; otherwise, it just stalls. It seems that fast idle does not work. I suspect idle air control valve got sticky.

I bought a can of intake manifold cleaner, but to my surprise, I could not find the little hole near the throttle body opening area. This little hole is supposed to lead to idle air control valve and it is suggested by others to spray some cleaner into this hole to free the valve (see video here blow).


My question is where the idle air control valve opening is for this type of engine? There must be a hole somewhere.

Can someone help out? I am new to this, thanks!
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Old 12-12-2010, 12:01 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Have you read this?

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...em/0050040.pdf

----
Edit:

Just to clarify: You don't have one. That's why you can't find it.

Last edited by my.rims.are.stock; 12-12-2010 at 12:03 AM. Reason: Because the button is there.
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Old 12-12-2010, 12:41 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by my.rims.are.stock View Post
Have you read this?

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...em/0050040.pdf

----
Edit:

Just to clarify: You don't have one. That's why you can't find it.
Thanks a lot, that is why!

is it correct then, when the engine is cold, throttle plate should stay in somewhat open position in order to enable fast ideal?

I will use OBD to check throttle position when engine is cold; I remember seeing throttle position at around 13% during warm idle. I should get a much high reading in the morning when the engine is cold, if this theory is correct.

Another thing I noticed is that when I tried to push the throttle plate with my finger, it is pretty rigid. I am not sure if this means something. I sprayed the throttle with the cleaner, but it did not help. Coolant temperature reading is good.
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Old 12-12-2010, 10:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Throttle position reading is at 17% during cold start; this looks good since 17 % throttle should achieve 1800 rpm on this engine (I tested it during warm idle).

I am glad that I took my car back from the dealer, which wanted to change the throttle body for me after throttle cleaning failed to fix the problem. Otherwise, I could easily spend a few hundred dollars likely for nothing.

The bad news is that I don't know where to look now.
It feels like the problem is in the fuel injector system. Besides the cold start problem, the car runs fine.

This problem happened for a few days back in July 2010; but it just disappeared. This time it won't go away. Any troubling shooting tip will be appreciated?

Thanks

Last edited by ngbdq; 12-13-2010 at 11:27 PM.
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Old 12-12-2010, 11:35 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Have you tried Lucas fuel injector cleaner? Or have you seafoamed it? Do you get a MIL?
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Old 12-13-2010, 02:33 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Good suggestion, I will get fuel injector cleaner to try out.

I saw Miss Fire code during cold start; but I think this was due to the fact I was trying to press gas pedal during the cold start, which likely flooded the engine, causing the miss fire.

I noticed a message from OBD indicating fuel system status change from "Open loop due to insufficient temperature" to "Open loop due to system failure" during cold start; but I could not figure out what the system failure is.

In the last couple of days, I also noticed P0010 code registered during cold start. I have never seen this code before and I am not sure if it is related. It is likely caused by my manual gas pedal intervention during cold start?

If I clean the fault codes and start and drive the car when engine is warm, I will not get any faulty code.

I would like to do more cleaning of throttle body; but my car will not run when MAF is disconnected. Any suggestion how to add intake manifold cleaner while keeping the car running?

Thanks

Last edited by ngbdq; 12-13-2010 at 05:01 PM.
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Old 01-03-2011, 10:42 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Finally, I was able to track it down to the fuel pump relay, which was making some chirping noise. First, I swapped it with another relay; but it made the same sound. Then I measured the fuel pump relay terminal voltage (coming from ECU); it varies from 3.5 up to 5 volts, which is supposed to be close to zero volts (ground) when the engine is running. So the fuel pump relay was never full closed.

As a temp solution, I removed the fuel pump relay and shortened the connection with a paper clip; I can hear the fuel pump running as soon as the car key is inserted. Now, my car can do cold start properly; but I have to find the real solution fast because this solution is not safe.

I suspect some ground connection was not tight (this car's engine was taken out for repair in June 2010 and no problem before that point). Thank goodness, I did not let the dealer change throttle body

Would someone help me with the electrical wiring diagram for 2002-2006 Camry? I need to locate the ground connections on this car. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-01-2011, 09:37 PM   #8 (permalink)
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On ECM, ground pin E1 is zero volts, but pin FC voltage is too high (around 4.5). According to Toyota manual, it is suggested to replace ECM.

However, since the max allowed voltage on Pin FC is 3.0 volts (in order to close the fuel pump relay), I took the cheap way to repair it without taking out the ECM: a couple of resistors (total 300 oms) and wiring the terminal (in fuse box) to the ground. Now the voltage is down to about 3 volts; my car is happily running again. Problem solved!

(I gave a TV repair shop $1 for the resistors )

Last edited by ngbdq; 02-01-2011 at 09:39 PM.
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