5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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I just bought some Alpine SPS-600c Component Speakers from Best Buy because they were on sale and i wanted to upgrade my stock front door speakers and tweeters anyway(for an '07 Camry). I knew i had to make/buy custom mounting brackets but i was antsy and decided to make my own. Instead of using MDF like a majority of people do i went with metal bracing. The speakers came with a mounting ring which was perfect so i just worked my way around it.
Bracket without speaker:
With speaker:
Back of bracket and speaker:
Tweeter (it isnt pretty but it does its job):
So let me know what you think. or if you have any questions feel free to ask.
Looks pretty nice! Hope it doesn't rattle. What's it look like all back together?
It sounds great. it doesn't rattle at all. there is a little bit of static because in the stock set up the signal goes from the head to the tweeter which had a shitty cross over attached (so signal was going in the tweeter then out the tweeter) then to the door speaker. i basically had to re route it by bridging the connections at the tweeter so it goes Head>Door Speaker>Crossover>Tweeter. The problem with that is the signal takes a trip up to the bridge in the tweeter down the to door speaker then back up to the tweeter. hopefully all that gets solved when i get around to adding my amp to the set up.
Looks good but i personally would have went with the MDF route.
Vibrations are a huge problem in car audio, your speakers lose energy when they create vibrations hence why people put dynamat and stuff on their doors to make them heavier to reduce vibrations so there is no lost energy from the speaker which will allow the speakers to sound their best. With the flimsy bracest I can see a lot of vibrations or lost energy since the metal braces will easily vibrate more compared to wood or plastic.
Anyways my suggestion is for you to amp those bad boys. Will make a huge difference, i recently got the type-r components and im feeding them 120w rms from an amp and they really do hit hard.
ps. how much did u pick them up for ? Theyre $78 bucks online from sonicelectronix
Looks good but i personally would have went with the MDF route.
Vibrations are a huge problem in car audio, your speakers lose energy when they create vibrations hence why people put dynamat and stuff on their doors to make them heavier to reduce vibrations so there is no lost energy from the speaker which will allow the speakers to sound their best. With the flimsy bracest I can see a lot of vibrations or lost energy since the metal braces will easily vibrate more compared to wood or plastic.
Anyways my suggestion is for you to amp those bad boys. Will make a huge difference, i recently got the type-r components and im feeding them 120w rms from an amp and they really do hit hard.
ps. how much did u pick them up for ? Theyre $78 bucks online from sonicelectronix
I got them for $100 plus tax. i just found out about that sonicelectronix site and they got some great deals. i have an amp laying around that im thinking about using on these. they sound great on theyre own IMO. but im planning on upgrading the rear speakers and havent decided if i wanna amp those speakers or the component speakers.
I got them for $100 plus tax. i just found out about that sonicelectronix site and they got some great deals. i have an amp laying around that im thinking about using on these. they sound great on theyre own IMO. but im planning on upgrading the rear speakers and havent decided if i wanna amp those speakers or the component speakers.
Forget about the rear, a waste of $$ imo. Money would be better spent on an amp for the front speakers,sub or new headunit.
Keep the rear speakers stock for fill or for passengers but honestly upgraded front speakers are all you need. Humans have two ears to hear left and right, and they are designed to mainly hear whats in front of them. Rear speakers will throw the imaging off. Thats why when people install component speakers, the location of the tweeter is one of the most important factors. Some places will sound good, while other locations will result in poor imaging.
Its your money and choice , but imo the best money you can spend is on an amplifier and components for the front.
Forget about the rear, a waste of $$ imo. Money would be better spent on an amp for the front speakers,sub or new headunit.
Keep the rear speakers stock for fill or for passengers but honestly upgraded front speakers are all you need. Humans have two ears to hear left and right, and they are designed to mainly hear whats in front of them. Rear speakers will throw the imaging off. Thats why when people install component speakers, the location of the tweeter is one of the most important factors. Some places will sound good, while other locations will result in poor imaging.
Its your money and choice , but imo the best money you can spend is on an amplifier and components for the front.
in that case im done upgrading. haha. currently i have a pioneer AVH-p3200DVD, Alpine SPS-600c for the front, stock rears and 2x12 sub Sony XPLOD powered by a 1000 watt sony xplod amp (it was free. cant complain. haha)
i think ill just throw in the 400 watt amp to power my components.
Forget about the rear, a waste of $$ imo. Money would be better spent on an amp for the front speakers,sub or new headunit.
Keep the rear speakers stock for fill or for passengers but honestly upgraded front speakers are all you need. Humans have two ears to hear left and right, and they are designed to mainly hear whats in front of them. Rear speakers will throw the imaging off. Thats why when people install component speakers, the location of the tweeter is one of the most important factors. Some places will sound good, while other locations will result in poor imaging.
Its your money and choice , but imo the best money you can spend is on an amplifier and components for the front.
+2. Front is more important then rear. Even though I got new speakers for the rear. Im only amping my front components.
in that case im done upgrading. haha. currently i have a pioneer AVH-p3200DVD, Alpine SPS-600c for the front, stock rears and 2x12 sub Sony XPLOD powered by a 1000 watt sony xplod amp (it was free. cant complain. haha)
i think ill just throw in the 400 watt amp to power my components.
Oh for some reason I thought you were running off a stock head unit.
How are your components wired? I didnt get what you did in your previous post.
And did your set come with cross overs? From what I researched the type-s didnt come with cross overs. Well external ones, it was built into the speaker using some capacitors and what not.
Oh for some reason I thought you were running off a stock head unit.
How are your components wired? I didnt get what you did in your previous post.
And did your set come with cross overs? From what I researched the type-s didnt come with cross overs. Well external ones, it was built into the speaker using some capacitors and what not.
they didnt come with cross overs. they have inline high pass filters in the supplied speaker wires that run from the woofer to the tweeter.
the stock stereo had the signal running from the head to the tweeter which had a built in crossover type deal that sent the signal to the door speaker. the way it did that was with a harness that had 2 purple wires and 2 green wires(colors might be different) basically one wire would go through the cross over then back out the other wire coordinately which lead to the door speaker.
The Alpines said the signal should be going from the head to the woofer then to the tweeter. So i basically had to flip the stock signal path.
So here what i had to do was run the signal from the head to the tweeter harness and bridge the 2 wires together (purple to purple, green to green) so it would keep the signal going to the door speaker. then from there using the supplied speaker wires with the inline high pass to continue the signal from the woofer to the tweeter.
its really simpler than it sounds but eventually i want to shorten the signal path so its just Head>Woofer>Tweeter without and BS in between.
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