***Disclaimer. All the DIYs have this, so it scares me into thinking that one of yous will sue me for f'ing up your own cars. SO, this is just to help you into trying to do this yourselves. I am not a crook or a mechanic or both the same. You do this at your own risk. Always wear protection for your eyes, hands and penis (hahaha). Always make sure all precautions are taken. Good luck.*****
I kept hearing this howl and I thought it was something internal, then the car started leaking pink fluid. Could not tell what it was, then my friend told me that my Pump was going. I looked closely and this is what it looked like
I will attempt to write a DIY for all of yous that are trying to save $600 from the local shop. That's what they wanted me to pay for water pump replacement and $150 for V belt replacement. I dont have $800 to throw out on mostly labor, so I jumped on it and said, "I can try to do this". I checked the DIY for belt removal and it seemed simple.
Camry 07 I4 Z2A-FE
Parts:
* Water pump from Advanced Auto - $50
* Toyota V-Belt from dealer - $40 <---- Amazing price
* Liquid gasket
* Big flat screwdriver
* Philips screwdriver
* Small flat screwdriver (for push locks on covers)
* Anti Freeze 1 gallon or 2. If you mix with water, then 1.
* half gallon of water
Tools:
* Mostly 12mm, 14mm, 19mm(for tensioner), 10mm sockets
* 12mm wrench, long one preferebly
* I bought this for $16 for the tensioner, my breaker head was to big:
at Harbor Freight, it comes with sockets but not 19mm
It is an awesome tool in my opinion, slim, very slim. I can see using it in other jobs.
* 1 strong bolt about 2 1/2" long
* 1 bucket
* rags
* 1 little hose to fit on radiator flush valve
So first I put my hand/foot brake on. Jacked up the front of the car and let it sit on stands.
Remove the negative/ground connector/terminal from the battery. Very important.
Remove the under engine cover that is right below the radiator flush/release valve.
Open radiator cap. Attach hose to valve, open valve and let it flush on your bucket. Camrys hold about 6.6 quarts of Anti-Freeze so measure your bucket.
While that is flushing, remove the right front tire. You will have better access to one particular bolt on the water pump and also will help in reinstalling the belt. Partially or completely remove the small engine cover panel, not the wheel well. You dont need to remove the wheel well. It will look like this.
I then used my serpentine removal tool with the 19mm socket as explained in the DIY page. It took about 2 minutes to get it off. I compared the new and used belts. The old belt looked alright, no cracks, scuffs on the sides, but would have lasted another 10k miles. Not bad for a 95k mile run.
Next, to remove the alternator. Remove all the screws and nuts for the power. I removed the heat shield, but it is not necessary. The reason was that the alternator was pressed tight and I thought there was another bolt somewhere and the shield was preventing me from seen it. Its just two bolts a 14mm on top and a 12mm under the alternator.
Once the bolts are out, use your big flat screwdriver as a lever to pull the alternator out. You slide in at the top part of the alternator and pull towards you to free it. It maybe easier on yours.
Now the fun part. Get your strong bolt and slide it the hole on the pulley and let it rest in the gap on the water pump. I did not have a specialty tool, so I used a bolt to stop the pulley from spinning.
I dont know if you can see the silver bolt above sliding across to that gap on the water pump. I did that and took my 12mm wrench and lossen the two bolts on the right. Hold the pulley with your left hand on the left side to aid the locking bolt. Then take the locking bolt out, spin the pulley and do the same to the other two. Then remove all four by hand. Pulley comes off easy.
Then use your 12mm deep socket to remove all 6 bolts holding the pump. There are two brackets attached to the pump. Dont forget this when replacing with the new one. The bottom bolt is easier to remove from the wheel well. The pump may be stuck pretty good, so you may carefully pry it with a small flat screw driver, but easy, its aluminum shite. Have your bucket ready underneath cause it will leak. Remove your pump.
Above you see the old skinny gasket from the original pump. It looked good to me and also, my new one does not have that gap on the pump. It came with its own flat gasket. I said forget about it. I cleaned around the area of the engine. Removed all the liquid gasket and sand it a bit to get it all off. I kept the skinny gasket in place on the engine. If you want remove it. I figured it will secure it more if I left it. This is my case. In your case the gasket might be all f'ed up and has to be removed. Make sure you clean well and dry as much as you can.
These are the pics of my old and new pump. The new pump only had 6 blades and the Toyota had 7. Dont know the advantage, more circulation? See the gap for the gaket?
So I put some liquid gasket, a little bead all around the new pump on the outside part of it, then placed the thin gasket on top, then added another thin bead of gasket on top of that also on the outside part of. Basically on the outside part of it that will face the original gasket on the engine. Then I grabbed the two nuts that go on the pump and the pump. Placed the pump in place and immediately screwed in the two bolts on either side, dont forget the bracket on the right side. Then hand tight. Then add the other bolts. Dont forget the bracket for the wire.
This is the tricky part. When you tighten the bolts and nuts there is a ft lbs torque that I believe its 13-15. I did not have that torque tool so I calculated. If you over tight it, you might screw the thread and then you are screwed yourself. No pun intended. Its aluminum cast. So I screwed like a tire pattern, one across from each other. You will see the liquid gasket come off a bit.
Do not overtight. Wait around 15 minutes to dry.
In the mean time. Close the drain valve from the radiator.
Take your pulley. Clean it and then reinstall it the same way. Hand tight the bolts and then use your locking bolt to secure the pulley from spinning. Use your left hand to assist the bolt and grab your 12mm wrench and tighten them up.
Once that is set, put back the alternator and screw all the power wires and plugs that go on it. Make sure the bolts are nice and tight, but not over tight.
Put back your belt as explained in the DIY. To me it was harder to try to put the belt over the water pump. I had to go with the Alternator as the last part for the belt. Align the belt on the water pump and the tensioner and let go of the tensioner.
Make sure all connections are back to their places and that you have no extra bolts or nuts anywhere laying around except the ones for the covers, cause that means you f'ed up somewhere. Back trace if needed.
Connect the ground terminal to the battery.
Now at this time, you could do a flush of the radiator if you want. You fill up the radiator with water and start the car. Let it run until the fan kicks in or very warm. Then wait until it cools again, open the radiator cap, put your bucket under the radiator, open valve. Let it drain. The fill it up with 50/50 or your Anti-Freeze of choice.
I didnt.
I filled it up with 50/50 until no more. Then started. Waited until fan kicked in, wait 5 minutes, shut it off, open cap, top off. Filled reservoir.
No leaks. Good. Put the wheel engine cover back. Put the wheel back. Put the under engine cover back. Lower car. Drive it around. Come back, check for leaks. None. Happy $550 for my kids future schooling not someone else's kids.
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