2011 XLE V6 - Room to haggle?

[Alwaysfixin]

I test drove an XLE V6, and want it. The salesperson told me that even though the upcoming 2012 will be a re-design, there isn't much room on the 2011 price cause they are being careful not to have too much Camry inventory in advance of the 2012's. I don't want to wait for the 2012's cause I need a car now, and I figure there won't be much room on the price of the 2012's.

Let me also say that I am a woman used to having her (ex)husband do the haggling. So it's not second nature for me at all. The salesman quoted me "ballpark $27 to 28" for the XLE V6 (no Nav), and said that when I was ready to buy he would work with me on the price, and that he wants me to go home happy with the car and the dealership. I understand that, and I am not trying to nickel-and-dime--I understand that he needs to put food on the table too. But I don't want to pay more than I should.

I also emailed some dealerships, and they emailed back with prices in the $27's, but all said they wanted to talk to me in person to discuss the price further. Any tips on how to negotiate for this car? Or what I should expect as my bottom-line price for the 2011 XLE V6?

[gdanaher]

Go to this address and look around for a comparable car with comparable equipment.

http://www.fitzmall.com/fitzway/loca...lstMAKE=TOYOTA

They are located in the Maryland area but don't panic. Two things. They can actually sell a car to you in Chicago, and they can also act as a basis of discussion with your local dealer.

There are several things you need to know:

1. When talking to multiple dealers about cars, compare apples to apples so that you know you are getting the best deal. If you MUST get one out of stock, then it is harder to do this, but don't be afraid to tell them exactly what you want and get a price for car they must order for you. They hate to do this if they have a large stock, but you are in a big city, so shop.

2. Each dealer can set his own documentation fees--those back end charges they tack on for the paperwork. Ask up front what they are. They will not want to tell you.

3. They will want to sell you an extended warranty when they close the deal. The salesman will never mention it, but the manager will, and it will likely be a high pressure deal. Learn to say NO THANKS. You can buy an extended warranty from a dealer in Boston who discounts them, for roughly half the price.

4. You absolutely MUST have your financing down and handled befor you darken anyone's door. Bank, credit union, cash. If you go in, make a deal, and don't have outside financing, they will be more than happy to handle it for you, and the interest rate can and often is out the roof, so do this first. This is quite important and can save you thousands of dollars over the course of a loan.

5. If you must lease, and some do for business, make sure the contract allows for plenty of miles over the course of the lease or you will have a balloon payment at the back end. Also look for any language that precludes you from early termination of the lease.

6. Finally, the price. If the price of the car, with taxes, documentation, transport, is within a couple hundered of omeone else and this dealer is closer to home, then you go ahead and buy. How much should you get off the sticker? It just depends upon what the accessories are because they tend to be spiffs for the dealer, but a Camry XLE V6 should have around 20% margin in the sticker, so a deal that brings it in at around 15% off sticker would be a fair starting place. Again though, look at the Fitz Mall prices because those are no haggle prices and you can call them any day of the week and buy a car at their published rates.

[Alwaysfixin]

Wow, thanks Gdanaher! The website link is great, as are all your tips. I should add that I won't be leasing, because I will be putting about 18,000 miles/year on the car. And accessories - well the XLE trim comes standard with about everything I could want and more, and I don't want Nav, so there's really no accessories I can think of to add (heavy duty/winter mats maybe?). As to financing, I was surprised that the dealership I went to is offering 0% financing, which I had thought no one was offering any more, but I'll be glad to take them up on it. I feel much better now about going back to the dealership and getting a fair price (I'll still need to take a deep breath before stepping through the door...I'm a little nervous).

[bass4me]

Originally Posted by Alwaysfixin

Or what I should expect as my bottom-line price for the 2011 XLE V6?

12.5 to 13% off the MSRP using the 0% deal is where you can walk away feeling pretty damn good. Make SURE your quote is using the 0%! Slightly better deals can be found but you need to be willing to travel to get those cars.

Just say NO NO NO to the extended warranty...and the undercoating...paint protectant...the leather treatment...and the sink...the only thing you need when you leave there is the car...and a smile.

Everything else can be re-considered after the salesman shock dies down.

BTW - they want you there in person so they can back you into a corner and do what they are trained to do. Go there with a price and be willing to walk away...not a dollar more.

Good Luck

[Mag Grey Toy]

i got 27 otd on my v6 le
so thats not too bad

[gdanaher]

Originally Posted by Mag Grey Toy

i got 27 otd on my v6 le
so thats not too bad

Argh. These sorts of short comments are useless unless you include a complete list of options, state sales tax, and trade-in involved, etc. If you want to be helpful, don't quote some OTD price but the actual sales price of the car, including the documentation fees but not including the tax and license because that all varies by state. Actually 27k for an LE with V6 seems pretty high to me, but again, your apples, my oranges. See what I mean?

[Alwaysfixin]

It's interesting that Bass4me mentioned paint protectant and leather treatment. There was a brochure on the salesman's desk that discussed those things, though the salesman--I have to give him credit, did not push those things at all. I was actually considering paint protectant cause I think every car I've ever had has dulled paint after a few Chicago winters and all the salt. And my job means my pants can be grimy, and I am concerned about transferring the grime to the leather. Are you saying I should not get these treatments at all, or that I should try to get them elsewhere than at the dealer's?

[bass4me]

Originally Posted by Alwaysfixin

I have to give him credit, did not push those things at all.

Are you saying I should not get these treatments at all, or that I should try to get them elsewhere than at the dealer's?

The high pressure sales pitch will come, trust me.

In my opinion, there is NO WAY the price vs. performance of these treatments can be justified. You should consider getting your car professionally detailed once a year for 200.00-300.00 instead of paying 1500-2500 for the packages they will pressure you with.

[gdanaher]

Alwaysfixin,
Right after you buy the car, get a couple cans of ScotchGard and zap any fabric you can see that might get grimey. Then, you can get any number of products at the parts store to treat leather and vinyl, and finally I have found Nanowax to be a great product that is easy to spray on and then smooth around. This is roughly the same thing they are going to spray on at the dealer. One car in my distant past had paint sealant/protector already installed when I bought the car off the lot. I could not see that it did anything at all and the paint required just as much attention as any other paint job. In Chicago you might need some additional undercoating to deal with salt, but then ther are independent shops that do this for a fraction of what the dealer gets.

My dealer wanted to sell me all of this as well as LoJac, extended warranty, and everything right down to changing the air in the cabin (!)

[gdanaher]

One other thing. You need to practice one particular look. Imagine your 14 year old daughter comes in one day and says, "Mom, I've fallen in love with my boyfriend, Ernesto, and we are going to move to Argentina and join the circus." This is the look you give the salesman and/or the closer/finance guy when he tries to sell you stuff you neither want nor need. You don't have to say anything. Just glare in silence and shake your head. Finally, a deep sigh, a roll of the eyes, and a few steps toward the exit will normally get things back in perspective for the salesman. You're talking to experience here. Never be afraid to walk away from a bad deal.

[arabianobsession]

Originally Posted by bass4me

The high pressure sales pitch will come, trust me.

In my opinion, there is NO WAY the price vs. performance of these treatments can be justified. You should consider getting your car professionally detailed once a year for 200.00-300.00 instead of paying 1500-2500 for the packages they will pressure you with.

These treatments come with warranties ranging from 4-6 years, an in that time, if there are any issues whatsoever, you bring it back to the dealer and they fix it for free.

FYI, for the Interior/Exterior protection, Diamond Fusion windshield treatment, and 3M package, we charge $1100. For all of it. And they all come with warranties. So it's really not that bad. The Interior Protection is $250, the Exterior another $250. I think that sounds better than 1 detail, don't you?

[Donald E. George]

Toyota sales are down so I would think anyone could get the Toyota they want if they go to the dealership with some basic knowledge of the product.Consumer Union sells a guide for buying any car you want for something like $15.00.If you are trading in a car,know the NADA wholesale price for your car and keep the new car price and the trade in price seperate. With all the options for purchasing a new car,I think most dealers will make you an offer which both you and the dealership can live with. Good luck. Regards

[bass4me]

Originally Posted by arabianobsession

for the Interior/Exterior protection...we charge $1100. For all of it. I think that sounds better than 1 detail, don't you?

No. A professional detailer will use similar competitive products for 200-300 dollars.

I would encourage readers here to Google "paint sealant rip off" or "paint protectant rip off". 15 minutes of reading will go a long way here.

I stand by my recommendation of yearly detailing.

[arabianobsession]

If you are paying 200-300 for a detail, then you are being ripped off. The most expensive detail job in the entire county I have seen is $175, and that includes the engine compartment.

I recommend more than 1 detail per year, at least 1 in the spring and fall, minimum.

Anyway, back to topic. For any of you who are considering these products, they're not all that bad. Use your own judgement, consider what your needs are, and shop around for prices. Dealers are always willing to negotiate prices on products as well.

P.S.: 3M paint protector cut down my stone chips from 100+ to a mere 3-5 on the upper portion of the hood. I love that stuff

[exclusive]

For a 2011 V6 XLE, you should get a price below $27k. Dealer cost for it is $26,518. This is car's price before any tax and license fees, and it includes the $1000 Toyota incentive right now in Chicago.