5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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Hi, new to forum, sorry if this is in the wrong place, I tried searching the forum for these problems im having with my 2009 camry but no luck, maybe you guys can shed some light for me?
I just bought a used 2009 Camry SE from the local toyota dealer and Im having 3 issues with it.
1. Swaying on the freeway around 60-70 MPH. I took it to the dealer, they said I needed an alignment, I got one, still does it. What else could it be? They said after the alignment it seemed fine.
2. Staticy radio stations. I also had the dealer look at this, they said it wasnt staticy to them and checked all connection which were good. I doesnt happen all the time but it does happen about 75 percent of the time were I can still listen to radio but static gets through and makes it annoying to listen to, anyone run into this problem?
3. Finally my center storage console lid rattles like theres no tomorrow and only solution is to rest my arm on it, I dont like driving like that, I inspected it and tightened all the screws and it still rattles. Anyone run into this or have a fix?
Thanks for any feedback, once again sorry if this is in the wrong place or a re asked question all the time.
For rattles- the newer Camry's are not high quality interior wise. People have found ways to silence rattles, squeaks, etc, by placing adhesive felt pieces near the source of the sound, for example, two plastic pieces rubbing- put a piece of felt pad between the two pieces.
__________________
Super White 2011 LE
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The sway i have no idea about.
I know the center console you may want to check and see if the felt pads are in place at the lid and base. It should have two little square pads present there to prevent this, you may also look at adjusting the latch on the lid, it's two screws there on the underside of the lid.
The static on the radio may be a little diff beast. In some cases the connection may be good at the attenae connection on the rear glass, but it wouldn't surprise me to see that it's not making a good connection due to not being in full contact. There are times when the glass urethane has gotten within the connection before it's made, this gives a signal but it can cause the static as well. You can check by removing the right rear c-pillar garnish and visually inspect each connection at the rear glass and look inside them for foreign objects within them. Other than that it can be in the head unit itself or the connection at the rear of the head unit.
I hope this helps but I can't guarantee that it will.
__________________ 2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
The radio static problem could also be related a problem with any number of the "suppression caps" located in the wiring harness, all over the car. It would be either loose or missing.
If I remember my prints correctly, there is one in the harness in the back of the trunk, left side, that goes to the rear window defogger. Also check for a loose connection at a ground screw/bolt to the chassis.
My center armrest POPS....
It appears to be temperature related and also to body flex. I think it is between the top pad and the inside cover it is mounted to. Arm on or off the rest don't correct this issue, except it will pop one time, then do it one more time within 10 minutes. Any suggestions, anyone?
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
Last edited by Luna2; 03-17-2011 at 05:19 AM.
Reason: Adding a question.
The radio static problem could also be related a problem with any number of the "suppression caps" located in the wiring harness, all over the car. It would be either loose or missing.
If I remember my prints correctly, there is one in the harness in the back of the trunk, left side, that goes to the rear window defogger. Also check for a loose connection at a ground screw/bolt to the chassis.
My center armrest POPS....
It appears to be temperature related and also to body flex. I think it is between the top pad and the inside cover it is mounted to. Arm on or off the rest don't correct this issue, except it will pop one time, then do it one more time within 10 minutes. Any suggestions, anyone?
Yes, there is a ground wire there too behind that garnish as well that you can check for the antennae, it will have a wire shot down with a bolt going to a box that has all the other wires coming from it to your rear window.
(Luna) Does the pop come from the top of your console or more from the base? Chassis flex shouldn't have any affect on the top. The base though is held to the chassis via two bolts inside the console. Under the console is a SUV brace (large metal box) it is bolted to the chassis via 8 shiney bolts. If some of those have given way they will send a pop through the center console anytime the chassis flexes. This requires the complete removal of your center console to get to though.
__________________ 2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
I do alignments as part of my job and have noticed a mild sway on a few 6 gen Camrys. First, let's assume that the suspension itself is ok and the car doesn't pull either way. A 2009 is not likely to have worn parts. Now try driving on the smoothest most level road you can find at a speed where the sway is strongest. Turn the steering wheel very slightly either way then let go of it. Does the car continue in the steered direction? Now try it the other way. If the car tends to keep going in the last steered direction you may have excess friction in the steering rack (most likely) or possibly a ball joint, tie rod outer end or strut bearing plate not moving freely. Excess friction in any part involved in steering can limit its natural self-centering tendency. This can be felt as sway because of the constant steering corrections needed to keep the car going straight. Now for the bad part. Diagnosing this kind of problem is potentially expensive and certainly a hassle. Even if the rack is the source, there is no certainty a replacement is much better.
One alternative is to have the alignment set towards the negative limit of front camber which will increase the self centering force, likely reducing the sway.
1. Swaying on the freeway around 60-70 MPH. I took it to the dealer, they said I needed an alignment, I got one, still does it. What else could it be? They said after the alignment it seemed fine.
was it windy that day?
check tire pressure to. if pressure is low car wil be more sensetive to wind and road inperfections.
we got some windy weather in TX lately, increased tire pressure to 38 front 36 rear-helped alot.
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3. Finally my center storage console lid rattles like theres no tomorrow and only solution is to rest my arm on it, I dont like driving like that, I inspected it and tightened all the screws and it still rattles. Anyone run into this or have a fix?
yep, like someone above me said, use felt pads, or little pc. of leather.
I got two on my lid too.
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Last edited by molson.david; 03-17-2011 at 10:51 AM.
Yes, there is a ground wire there too behind that garnish as well that you can check for the antennae, it will have a wire shot down with a bolt going to a box that has all the other wires coming from it to your rear window.
(Luna) Does the pop come from the top of your console or more from the base? Chassis flex shouldn't have any affect on the top. The base though is held to the chassis via two bolts inside the console. Under the console is a SUV brace (large metal box) it is bolted to the chassis via 8 shiney bolts. If some of those have given way they will send a pop through the center console anytime the chassis flexes. This requires the complete removal of your center console to get to though.
Thanks, I will look into the problem some more. I may have 2 problems. I don't have any trouble causing the pad to POP with the top open, just when trying to prove it at the dealer.....
The body flex issue causing a pop, the dealer couldn't find it in their customary 2 mile drive 2 times either......
I now have popping in the dash next to the windshield, too. 14,000 miles and it is falling apart....
__________________
2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
The windshield pop is likely the the clock garnish piece, others have posted on this and how to fix it. If it's not that it very well could be the a pillar garnishes catching a speaker wire that has been misrouted. If that's the case get back to me and I'll let you know how to remove them without tearing up the garnish.
__________________ 2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
I now have popping in the dash next to the windshield, too. 14,000 miles and it is falling apart.
Quote:
The windshield pop is likely the the clock garnish piece, others have posted on this and how to fix it. If it's not that it very well could be the a pillar garnishes catching a speaker wire that has been misrouted. If that's the case get back to me and I'll let you know how to remove them without tearing up the garnish...
could be that. but if it pops like something clicks it most likely plastic clips which attach dash to the fire wall.there is two of them in the middle, one on each side of the clock garnish piece. you need to remove garnish and put something between dashboard and air dock. I used pc. of stiff packing foam from laptop box. slide it kind under the dash.
remove garnish and, hold the dash where it meets windshield and move dash up and down. you'll hear same popping/clicking sound if it is these clips.
other solution to remove dash and put silicone on those clips and around them.when it dries it will hold clips in place.
my friend fixed his dash this way when he was adding insulation on firewall.
__________________ IndianaBorn gen7 LE. For sale gen 6: MdxTSXr black shrouds 5K retro OEM key with transmitter 2.4 transm.filter+gasket+WS. 2.4 K&N drop-in+cleaner and oil
Last edited by molson.david; 03-17-2011 at 11:30 PM.
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