5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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I really need some help, folks--I'll try to make it as quick as possible.
I recently had some work done to my trunk lid--had it replaced because of some big dents.
After getting the car back I noticed the back speakers (6x9) weren't functioning right. The left one had a buzzing sound at high volumes and the right had no mids--just highs from the tweeter.
I brought it to one car audio place--they said it couldn't be replaces on account of the JBL system. I have the 440 watt system.
Brought it to a dealership--one of the guys said they could be replaced, but I would need to know the ohm rating.
After contacting Toyota headquarters, they said the impedance rating was 2.2.--wouldn't tell me the ohm--not sure why or if it's a different thing.....
Brought it to another car audio place and they said they could replace it--I bought two Kenwood speakers--KFC Excelon 6993--3 ohm speakers, I believe. The car audio place said it would not be a noticeable difference.
Had them installed, but the same issue arose--the back left speaker seems to be working, but the right one still only has the tweeter working. The back left doesn't have the buzzing sound anymore, though, which it did when I first starting noticing the sound was messed up...
The place said it is probably because of a bad output on the amp--they want to bypass the amp and put the speakers directly into a new head unit, which I would have to purchase. They said that the head unit would power all the speakers fine.
I asked about the wiring--perhaps when I had my trunk lid replaced, they damaged some of the wire that goes to the amp? The place said they were 85-90% sure it was the amp and not the wiring.
What do you all think? I'm thinking about bringing it to a shop to test all the wiring--was quoted at about $40 for the test.
Do you think it's the amp or the wiring? I am very confused and frustrated.... thanks for your help.
You can buy a new factory amp on eBay for less than the cost of a test. I'm not sure in your case that if it's the amp or not, but it sounds like what my '07 Camry did to me last year and that's what it turned out to be, only after I had all the speakers replaced. Good luck hope you get her fixed.
__________________ 2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
im an ex-pro installer lol and ive been thru this situation tons of time, but of course ima tell u my opinion, not their "lets get the most money out of him" opinion..
first, whoever replaced ur trunk SHOULD b responsible for covering the cost of fixing ur sound problem, assuming it wasnt doin it b4 they fixed it and it was immediately after getting it back from them. read thru their service contract that u signed when they took ur car in to fix the trunk, it will tell u what they cover and rules etc...
second, impedance IS ohms, so its 2.2 ohms, 90% of the time no aftermarket speaker will outproduce a factory jbl speaker in the exact location (mostly bass wise), due to tuning, air space, cone size, driver range, and power output ESPECIALLY a kenwood ( just criticism, not knockin ya) as far as getting a new headunit and all that...ehhh i wouldnt put after market speakers on the jbl system, wont sound right, the jbl systems r spec'ed to the car, thats y they sound so good, but a new radio will majority of the time make it sound even better (but in ur case wont fix ur problem) and i HOPE they gave u ur jbl speakers they took out....they should have, or they need to give u some new ones...if u have them, take a simple AA battery and put a wire on the positive and negative terminals on the speaker and put the batter on the ends (- to + , + to -, - to -, + to + doesnt matter which way) and u should hear a pop, if u do the speaker is fine (make sure u hear a pop from highs and mids)
third, sounds like it is an amp problem and not a wiring problem tho, wiring problems usually create shorts and will knock out the entire speaker, or system as a whole. sounds like ur crossovers went out inside ur amp (which could have been caused by a short that was fixed) due to the fact that the after market speakers are doin the same thing...
so yea, do wut KYcamrymaker said, easiest by far is to replace the amp, so first check with the repair shop on reimbursment, either way, new amp.
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Last edited by BluTorrent; 03-27-2011 at 03:59 AM.
How was the amp shorted out if it's not near the trunk lid? Would the repair shop have had to take apart the speakers in the back to fix the trunk lid?
Also, I can't find the amp on ebay... Could someone tell me what I'm looking for?
The car audio place that replaced the speakers said that they could rewire the speakers to a new head unit and completely bypass the amp for around $250.
Does think sound like a good idea?
Also, I think I found an amp online for around $250, too....
The jbl speakers I got back after the replacement have cuts in the wire (the black wires are cut in half). Can this be fixed?
I already paid for the Kenwood excelons and the one on the left doesn't sound too bad--the buzzing I heard from the jbl (or thought I heard) is gone...perhaps the jbl was on it's way out?
How was the amp shorted out if it's not near the trunk lid? Would the repair shop have had to take apart the speakers in the back to fix the trunk lid?
Also, I can't find the amp on ebay... Could someone tell me what I'm looking for?
I trust you located the amplifier under the front passenger seat for your correct part number.
If they already cut the wires there is no sence in replacing the stock amp. The stock rear speakers have 4 wires going to them, +\- for the highs and +\- for the lows. Best bet is to go ahead and re-run from the head unit or an aftermarket amp. I know when I replaced my rears the only way for them to sound right with the jbl system and stock unit, I had to run all 4 leads to the aftermarket speaker. 2 to the tweeter of the 6X9 and 2 to the cone. If I just ran the two on the under side from the stock I only got the low muffled tones. That is fine for most as the fronts still produce highs but I wanted it to be like the factory system because it was a leased vehicle. The wires that produce the highs are underneath the package tray in the rear. I hate to say it, but the cookie cutter installers have got you at this point because they're not going to undo what is done because the install is good by their standards. The new speakers produce sound and the factory amp is on the fritz. Bypass with a new HU is the best bet to get it to sound as nice as it once did. Probably cheaper at this point as well.
__________________ 2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
I doubt the replacement of the trunk lid had anything to do with your rear speaker issues (unless the shop abused your sound system while they were installing the trunk lid).
Since it appears to be isolated to a bad amp, I would put the JBLs back in since they are tuned for the car's interior and amp.
Splice the wires back together. There's no need to rewire the entire sound system.
I know you just bought new speakers. See if you can get a refund from the shop since they misdiagnosed the issue to begin with. If that's not an option - sell the Kenwoods and use the money to pay for the replacement amp.
That's the way I'd do it anyway...
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2007 Avalon Limited - Love this car!
Last edited by Tom in Tacoma; 03-27-2011 at 11:29 AM.
I have no idea how to splice wires, re-install speakers, take out speakers, how long it would take to sell the Kenwoods etc... I honestly don't want to go through the hassle. An amp on ebay (with a warranty, which would be key in my book would cost $200-250....
The car audio place quoted me about $250 to get a new Kenwood HU and run the speakers (including the front JBL's to the HU), which they said would power everything, no problem.
For this $250, would it be worth it? Would the current amp be at risk of messing something else up with the car?
OR should I just buy a refurbished amp with no warranty, install it for around the same price...
I have no idea how to splice wires, re-install speakers, take out speakers, how long it would take to sell the Kenwoods etc... I honestly don't want to go through the hassle. An amp on ebay (with a warranty, which would be key in my book would cost $200-250....
The car audio place quoted me about $250 to get a new Kenwood HU and run the speakers (including the front JBL's to the HU), which they said would power everything, no problem.
For this $250, would it be worth it? Would the current amp be at risk of messing something else up with the car?
OR should I just buy a refurbished amp with no warranty, install it for around the same price...
I just want this issue to be over with!!!
i would stick to replacing the amp and putting the jbl's back in, the only way after market speakers (stock front) and HU would sound better than the jbl system would b to put an amp on it and a small sub in the trunk.., its just not feasible... i can promise u that the after market HU cnt power the front speakers like they're meant to b, along with all the proper acoustics and crossover levels...the jbl systems are designed to the car from the ground up..thats y they sound so good...but then again i dnt kno how well ur knowledge of how a system is supposed to sound is. someone with no knowledge of car audio might think a system sounds perfect, while i on the other hand thinks it sounds like crap ya kno?
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2011 TMMK SE V6, Leather, Nav, Remote start, 10,000k 55w HL, 8,000k 35w FL, 17% tint, LED conv.
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