5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
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I have an 09 V6 Camry. I change my oil and filter every 5k miles and use synthetic oil. I have kept most of my oil filters and decided to compare them after I noticed the Purolator filters have colapsed. The first 2 filters I installed were Napa. They are the same diameter as the OEM, but less filter material. I checked out the 2 Purolators and they are smaller with much less filter material than both the Napa and the OEM. After just changing my oil 200 miles ago, I removed the Purolator and it already showed signs of colapse. I installed an OEM and I am sure that is what I will stay with. The dealer had a buy 3 get $3 off. Only $5 each. On Ebay they are even cheaper, but I did not want to wait.
There was a video on youtube before about some guy opening up like 10 different aftermarket brands of oil filters and 9/10 filters were shit, thats why you should stick with oem
Here is the most thorough, unbiased research I've ever seen on oil filters. Click on the filter brand down the left side of the page and you'll see a full write up on each one.
OEM filters are typically made by the same companies who sell oil filters at Walmart (and it's a good rule to never buy oil or filters at Walmart). They are cheap filters with crappy paper filter material and plastic relief valves. I'm surprised to hear Purolator filters were collapsing on your engine, I've been using them for years on our '04 Camry V6 XLE with no problems. I would stick with Napa filters (they are made by Wix) if they work for you, or any other brand that uses synthetic filter material and metal internal parts. Definitely don't cheap out though, Fram is the spawn of satan.
Last edited by jermag24; 04-09-2011 at 06:13 PM.
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I have a Toyota sitting here next to a Fram and can see absolutely no difference in the size, color of material, shape--anything. Now, the material might be different under lab analysis, but on the surface, it looks just fine. The OP should try a Fram once and see if the problem reoccurs.
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This link should be a sticky somewhere so it can be referred to quickly without a search.
gator1939
Quote:
Originally Posted by jermag24
Here is the most thorough, unbiased research I've ever seen on oil filters. Click on the filter brand down the left side of the page and you'll see a full write up on each one.
OEM filters are typically made by the same companies who sell oil filters at Walmart (and it's a good rule to never buy oil or filters at Walmart). They are cheap filters with crappy paper filter material and plastic relief valves. I'm surprised to hear Purolator filters were collapsing on your engine, I've been using them for years on our '04 Camry V6 XLE with no problems. I would stick with Napa filters (they are made by Wix) if they work for you, or any other brand that uses synthetic filter material and metal internal parts. Definitely don't cheap out though, Fram is the spawn of satan.
I have a Toyota sitting here next to a Fram and can see absolutely no difference in the size, color of material, shape--anything. Now, the material might be different under lab analysis, but on the surface, it looks just fine. The OP should try a Fram once and see if the problem reoccurs.
I've cut open a Fram and I've never used one since. They are the bottom of the barrel. Cheap paper filter material glued to two cheap paper end caps, and a plastic anti drain back valve and bypass valve. I remember thinking "Why am I spending all of this money on good synthetic oil and running it through a $4 oil filter?!"
Jermag24, in this case (cartridge filter), the bypass valve and anti drain back valve, and even the end caps, are moot points. The Fram filter for this application looks almost exactly like the OEM Denso filter, except that it's much more expensive. All you're buying (for a GR or AR engine) is the filter element itself. The Purolator version has end caps, but they're not really necessary. The Fram and Denso models don't have end caps at all. The bypass and anti drain back functionality is in the filter housing itself, and that's not replaced during an oil change...just the element is replaced.
knfenimore - this is your second post re: collapsing oil filters. apparently you missed the previous link to the filter manuf. assc. detailing your issue and the most likely cause of the collaspe - which didn't have anything to do with which brand of filter you use. if you are seeing signs of deformation at only 200 miles, reread to link to the FMA or keep changing your filters until you have a lubrication related engine failure.
I usually run the Purolator PureONE filters since they're a little better than the regular purolator filters, it uses a better filter media. Bosch sells a "distance plus" oil filter that has a great extra-large synthetic filter media, but it's not cheap (about $15) and I've never seen it at the local shops. Amazon.com sells them though. It's probably not worth it compared to a PureONE (like $5 when on sale) if you don't do extended oil change intervals.
This is the one for the I4 Camry, not sure which number the V6 uses:
If you're really worried I'd just do a used oil analysis to see if the "collapsed" filter is really affecting it's filtering ability. The oil might be just fine if you're changing it fairly often.
I just switched to the Bosch Distance Plus filter though since I'm gonna be running longer oil change intervals and huge synthetic media filters and genuine group IV/V synthetic motor oil is what all the cars that come with long factory change intervals use.
Here's their little diagram thingy showing all the upgrades:
The 300% claim is a little sketchy though since they're comparing it to really crappy filters.
There are some good aftermarket filters, but it's hard to beat an OEM filter designed for your car by the manufacturer in my book. I run the OEM filters on My Accord and GMC truck. It just makes sense.
I've cut open a Fram and I've never used one since. They are the bottom of the barrel. Cheap paper filter material glued to two cheap paper end caps, and a plastic anti drain back valve and bypass valve. I remember thinking "Why am I spending all of this money on good synthetic oil and running it through a $4 oil filter?!"
so dont buy $4 fiulter, buy $8 fram XG extended guard, they are step up even from $12-15 "best of the best" filters.
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Last edited by molson.david; 04-11-2011 at 10:16 AM.
so dont buy $4 fiulter, buy $8 fram XG, they are step up even from $12-15 "best of the best" filters.
You may mean the Tough Guard.
Seems the Fram Extra Guard isn't good as well as the Fram High Mileage and Double guard filters.
The Fram Tough Guard got a decent review..
Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.
Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.
Fram High Mileage
Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.
Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.
if you'll look for resent oil filters tests, you'll be surprise alot...
considering price fram ain bad. even low end filters.
I know two mechanics that using fram for many years and never had any problems.
They using 15-20 of them a day and never had complains.
i opened cople frams myself, but havent opened XG, didn see anything strange or bad inside.
at the same time my friend filter elements on mobil filters off his maxima always looks deformed.
__________________ IndianaBorn gen7 LE. For sale gen 6: MdxTSXr black shrouds 5K retro OEM key with transmitter 2.4 transm.filter+gasket+WS. 2.4 K&N drop-in+cleaner and oil
Last edited by molson.david; 04-11-2011 at 10:02 AM.
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