HELP! Oil Pump ?

[chowdahed]

Sons 03 Camry 2.4 112K Low oil pressure light comes on after 18 -20 miles driving.
Oil & filter is changed regular at 3000 with 5-30 oil.
Dealer replaced head (1 camshaft let go) timing chain, tensioner etc at 108k miles. Did not have any sludge that could be seen in old head. Everything was ok until now.
Engine light came on. Hooked up DRB -camshaft position sensor - Replaced.
Drove around 20 miles low oil came on again. Maybe bad oil pressure switch- replaced($20),
Cleared all codes, 24 miles later oil light came on.
Dipstick still reads full. Changed oil filter. Again oil light comes on.
Engine runs smooth, no knocking anything, not overheated. Do not have access to actual oil pressure tester/gauge anymore.
Looked at pulling pan to see if pump pick-up was clogged or sludge in pan but there are 3 pan bolts by the frame that I know I can get out but putting them back in, well my fingers are not that small to start them. Even sticking the heads of the bolts in a piece of tubing to start them seems to be impossible because of the angle.

Anybody out there in Toyota Nation with some input-suggestions ? HELP: dunno:
Had to insert icons- couldn't resist.

[Donald E. George]

Pull the oil pressure sending unit and replace it with a gauge.You can probably find the right adaptor by carefully measuring the thread size and pitch on the adaptor. Regards.

[Frodo65]

Originally Posted by chowdahed

Sons 03 Camry 2.4 112K Low oil pressure light comes on after 18 -20 miles driving.
Oil & filter is changed regular at 3000 with 5-30 oil.
Dealer replaced head (1 camshaft let go) timing chain, tensioner etc at 108k miles. Did not have any sludge that could be seen in old head. Everything was ok until now.
Engine light came on. Hooked up DRB -camshaft position sensor - Replaced.
Drove around 20 miles low oil came on again. Maybe bad oil pressure switch- replaced($20),
Cleared all codes, 24 miles later oil light came on.
Dipstick still reads full. Changed oil filter. Again oil light comes on.
Engine runs smooth, no knocking anything, not overheated. Do not have access to actual oil pressure tester/gauge anymore.
Looked at pulling pan to see if pump pick-up was clogged or sludge in pan but there are 3 pan bolts by the frame that I know I can get out but putting them back in, well my fingers are not that small to start them. Even sticking the heads of the bolts in a piece of tubing to start them seems to be impossible because of the angle.

Anybody out there in Toyota Nation with some input-suggestions ? HELP: dunno:
Had to insert icons- couldn't resist.

How and why did the cam 'let go'? Oil starvation to cam is a possible failure scenario - and it would leave tell-tale signs.

Low oil pressure can be due to a bad pump, or excessive clearances that result in flow beyond the ability of the pump to keep up with. If you truly have low oil pressure (and a direct-reading gauge is the only way to really tell), chances are that bearings are 'at risk', especially if it's been going on for so long.

Ultimately, getting at the pump, and possibly into the main/rod bearings is in your future if the pressure is below spec.

[chowdahed]

Originally Posted by Frodo65

How and why did the cam 'let go'? Oil starvation to cam is a possible failure scenario - and it would leave tell-tale signs.

Low oil pressure can be due to a bad pump, or excessive clearances that result in flow beyond the ability of the pump to keep up with. If you truly have low oil pressure (and a direct-reading gauge is the only way to really tell), chances are that bearings are 'at risk', especially if it's been going on for so long.

Ultimately, getting at the pump, and possibly into the main/rod bearings is in your future if the pressure is below spec.

Bought it used. Ran great, didn't use any oil, no noises, no warning lights ever came on. He was driving on hiway, about 60-65, when it lost power, engine light came on, a few bucking/surges and then he heard/ felt a bang and coasted off the side of road, all this happening in less than a minute.

Dealer techs said it looked like a valve spring let go, pieces got lodged in the lobs of the front cam. Cam actually broke in two places. Made deal with dealer, if I supplied a good used head they would take care of the rest. Found head with 32K on it, they checked it out to be in excellent shape they commented it was like brand new. When head was off they looked at the cylinders to see if any damaged to walls or pistons, no damage.They replaced timing chain, tensioner etc. got car back everything seem to be ok for a few thousand miles.

Son went out of state. Sat in driveway from Sept 2010 to Jan 2011. Had to recharge battery for restart in Jan. Engine light came on and front exhaust flex joint major leak, repaired( welded new Flex section) Ran smooth, no noise nothing. Had replace battery. Went to get new inspection sticker, Had to drive it so the computer could rest for the emmisions test. After 24 miles that's when the oil light came on, engine light came on. Hooked up DRB>Cam position sensor, replaced. Had to drive again for another computer reset, same 24 miles lights came on again. Replaced oil pressure sensor, oil filter( maybe bad pressure valve in filter).

This whole time engine is running smooth with no noises, Do not hear any grinding sound at any time,like bearings, not overheating nothing. Getting oil gauge to hook up. Oil Light does not come on until driven for about 20-25 miles. What I'm thinking is maybe there is sludge problem or actual pieces from the R&R on the head replacement in the oil pan that just takes a little driving to cause a restriction in the oil pump pickup.

Does this sound logical? Any body ever seen this? Ussually dropping the oil pan is not a problem but the access to 3 bolts on the oil pan that are just above the frame are going to be a real pain in the a*s to put back in. It looks like you need to jack the engine up just an inch or 2 just to screw them back in. If this sounds like the way to go I'll do it, just hoping someone in Toyota Nation might have any other suggestions.
Thanks.

[workerant]

all fixes done at dealer?

[Dave-o]

Wow youve had some serious problems with that engine, more than likely the pressure sensor was bad rather than excessive clearence...you should do a leakdown test at a reputable place to make sure your cams are working properly, my 2 cents

[Frodo65]

If you didn't see signs of sludge when the head was replaced, it's unlikely (not impossible, but not likely) that a flow-inhibiting amount of sludge is in the pan. The head is typically hottest, and as such is most likely to cause oil to degrade and sludge up. Now, some contamination with coolant MIGHT create in-pan sludge - but again, you'd see.

A relatively 'cheap-and-easy' to take a look at how bad a sludge problem you have would by a Harbor Freight flex tube camera. I believe that this one is small enough to get in the oil drain hole. They have a 8.5 mm standard, and an optional 5.5mm probe, which is small enough to fit through the oil drain. The probe has LED lighting, and should give enough vision to see if sludge is that bad.

[hugesack]

the dealer which repaired the cam issue didn't drop the pan and inspect for metal frag? They claim that the cylinders, pistons, block were inspected and ok? so they must have dropped the pan, it would have been in their best interest not to skip that step...your gonna have to hook up a oil pressure gauge and check pressure, then go from there. you have had a couple issues that are not very common with the 2az motor. i would be very surprised to hear sludge is your problem. i think it could be possible your pump was damaged from the first engine failure or could have been the problem all along