08 Camry disc brake pad replacement - Toyota Nation Forum : Toyota Car and Truck Forums

bhanse · 07-23-2011, 04:51 PM

Is there a thread on how to change the disc brake pads? I need to do it but don't want to make any mistakes.......Is there a DIY?.........Thanks

gdanaher · 07-23-2011, 05:07 PM

I'm sure there is. They are just simple single piston calipers with nothing unusual. If all else fails and you have never done brakes before, send me a PM and I'll help you. I hate to waste bandwidth with this sort of stuff.

bhanse · 07-23-2011, 06:45 PM

Thanks......if it's fairly straight forward I won't have any trouble

Donald E. George · 07-24-2011, 01:02 PM

Google You Tube. Almost all production cars have floating caliper disc brakes. You remove the pins and lift the caliper off the disc and then remove the pads.Support the caliper.Use jack stands.

PatrickGSR94 · 07-24-2011, 02:58 PM

Always use new or resurfaced rotors with new brake pads. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS removed the slide pins, clean them off, and re-grease them with high-temp brake grease. This is what prevents seized calipers. My Integra's brake calipers are original with 303K miles on them and have never seized up since I always re-grease the pins at every brake job.

bhanse · 07-26-2011, 06:44 PM

Thanks Gents......I've found my rotors to be warped up front.....found out Toyota has had some problems with rotor warpage (or what ever you want to call it) so before I do the pads I'm going to get new rotors for both ends along with ceramic pads for the rear......I have them for the front ........Thanks again for the information........bruce

***JohnGD*** · 07-26-2011, 07:25 PM

When you remove the old pads see if the SAE Edge Code is still visible. It may look something like "AK xxx-xxx FF" or "NBK xxx-xxx FF". Let us know what it is.

I'd get Akebono ProAct ceramic pads. These are light dusting, long wearing pads and excellent value for the money. If you see AK then it's Akebono, but there's lots of NBK too from the factory.

What brand of rotors do you plan to get?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bhanse

Thanks Gents......I've found my rotors to be warped up front.....found out Toyota has had some problems with rotor warpage (or what ever you want to call it) so before I do the pads I'm going to get new rotors for both ends along with ceramic pads for the rear......I have them for the front ........Thanks again for the information........bruce

bhanse · 07-28-2011, 08:00 PM

Well before I found out the rotors were warped I bought a front set from Rock Auto.....Wagner ...Wag QC1293 ceramic pads.......they're supposed to be light dusting etc......paid around $60.00........now I'm going to purchase drilled and slotted rotors .....don't know what brand name but I saw some on e-bay for around $130.00 for a pair......I figure if I'm going to change rotors I'm going more high performance.......have any suggestions?

***JohnGD*** · 07-28-2011, 10:15 PM

I'd just go with Centric C-tek or if you worry about rust on the hub, go with the Centric Premium with powder coated hubs.

Give Wagner a try and see if you like them. Otherwise see if rockauto is willing to exchange for Akebono ProAct ceramics.

keyboardracer · 07-29-2011, 04:59 PM

By the way, what is the root cause for brake piston to seize ? Is it because the pads wore out too thin and piston is over retracted?

gdanaher · 07-29-2011, 10:26 PM

That can cause it, but there are times where the fluid should have been changed, the car was in a humid climate, and excess moisture collected on the piston/cylinder surface and formed rust.

JustinC25 · 07-30-2011, 02:11 PM

I tried the Wagner ThermoQuiets in my '95. Didn't care for them.
They were the only ceramic pad I've ever used that squeaked.
They also had more brake dust than OEM.
+1 on the Akebono Pro ACT pads. Silent, and clean wheels.
Other good choices on RockAuto, the Sumitomo pads (sold under the beck arnley name, but it says OE pads, Sumitomo), and I've had good luck with the Raybestos Professional Grade Ceramic pads, and the Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic's.

The Wagner's weren't a bad pad, just noisey when it was damp.
The Akebono's are great, and last a long time too.
The Posi-Quiet Ceramic's are a great value. (Currently in my '95)
I think I'll use the Akebono's or the Posi-Quiets when it's time to change the pads in my wife's 2010.

As for rotors, I would avoid the slotted, and cross drilled ones from ebay. Many of them have been modified from a standard rotor, and may compromise your safety.

I'd go for standard blank rotors. I've had good luck with Brembo's, Beck/Arnley, and Raybestos.
I've heard good things about Centric's.

Let us know what you decide either way.
RockAuto is great about returns.

***JohnGD*** · 07-30-2011, 09:59 PM

Brake fluid should be flushed out every 2 years. I'd use a low moisture activity fluid like Valvoline synthetic or Castrol GT LMA.

Also, old piston seals can cause the caliper piston to seize too. I rebuilt calipers and the seals still feel soft when I took them out, but the pistons were tight.

Donald E. George · 07-31-2011, 12:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gdanaher

That can cause it, but there are times where the fluid should have been changed, the car was in a humid climate, and excess moisture collected on the piston/cylinder surface and formed rust.

Right on. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic,that is it absorbs moisture. The brake master cylinder is necessarily open to the environment and the brake fluid absorbs moisture through the vent. Changing the fluid every two years will avoid most rust and corrosion in the brake system. I installed Russell speed bleeders on my Camry so now I don't have to bother my wife with helping me bleed the brakes. I always run a quart of the Valvoline DOT4 through the system and top the master cylinder off with a pint of the same fluid. Works for me. When it come to the brake system,cleanliness is a must. Use rubbing alchohol to clean up any spills. The only problem I have changing my own brake fluid is getting rid of the old fluid. I must have a gallon of it sitting around. Our town has a hazardous waste disposal event once a year but they won't take brake fluid. Same with antifreeze. I know Walmart takes used oil,anyone know if they take antifreeze and brake fluid? Regards

JustinC25 · 07-31-2011, 12:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Donald E. George

Right on. DOT 3 and 4 brake fluid is hygroscopic,that is it absorbs moisture. The brake master cylinder is necessarily open to the environment and the brake fluid absorbs moisture through the vent. Changing the fluid every two years will avoid most rust and corrosion in the brake system. I installed Russell speed bleeders on my Camry so now I don't have to bother my wife with helping me bleed the brakes. I always run a quart of the Valvoline DOT4 through the system and top the master cylinder off with a pint of the same fluid. Works for me. When it come to the brake system,cleanliness is a must. Use rubbing alchohol to clean up any spills. The only problem I have changing my own brake fluid is getting rid of the old fluid. I must have a gallon of it sitting around. Our town has a hazardous waste disposal event once a year but they won't take brake fluid. Same with antifreeze. I know Walmart takes used oil,anyone know if they take antifreeze and brake fluid? Regards

They don't take coolant, but brake fluid can be mixed in with you waste engine oil and recycled.
That's what clean harbors told us to do when I worked for the dealership.