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Old 07-31-2011, 06:04 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Transmission fluid drain and fill - me 0, car 1 :(

Hi all,

I read as many posts as I could before attempting the transmission drain and fill on my 2005, 4 cylinder XLE. Went and bought a case of t-IV ATF fluid, made sure that I had a 10mm hex plug, then jacked up the front of the car and proceeded to remove the drain plug ..... well .... the damn thing didn't even budge! I thought maybe I am losing my strength so called my 18 year old hockey player, he says it won't move pops
So the question to you folks is - how do you take that darn thing off? Normally, one goes counter-clockwise to unscrew things but since I am looking at from *below, I should be going clockwise. Right?

Thanks in advance.
rados
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:22 PM   #2 (permalink)
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let me guess. you are still on the original transmission fluid right..
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:30 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Oh no, forgot to add those details.

Car has approximately 75K on it.
I had taken the car to a $tealer and he mentioned that the ATF was dirty.
So I took the car to trusted local mechanic and had done 2 drains and fills by him, at $65 a pop. I don't want to do the flush, so I plan to do 2 more drain and fills myself.

Thanks
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Old 07-31-2011, 06:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
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Normally, one goes counter-clockwise to unscrew things but since I am looking at from *below, I should be going clockwise. Right?
uh, no. you still go counter-clockwise if you are on your back looking up at the plug. there's your problem right there!

but seriously, if it is really stuck because the mechanic over torqued it, then try using a breaker bar. unless the 10mm tool you have is an allen wrench and not a socket, then you're out of luck.

for reference, the drain plug should only be torqued to 36 ft-lb, and it is always a good idea to replace the drain plug gasket.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:26 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Gen5

wait, I *was* going counter clockwise.
Had to get on the floor and mimic what I was doing last week end
I have a socket, so I will try using the breaker bar.
Is there a special parts number or name for the drain plug gasket or that's how I would ask for in the auto parts place?

TIA
rados

Last edited by rados; 07-31-2011 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 07-31-2011, 07:29 PM   #6 (permalink)
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yeah, bet the shop over-torqued it with an air wrench. another reason i never take my car to a shop. this is such a common theme, air wrenches are faster and torquing things properly takes far too much of their "precious" time. lug nuts and oil plugs are so commonly over-torqued...i guess it's how they generate more business for warped rotors and such.
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Old 07-31-2011, 10:24 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rados View Post
wait, I *was* going counter clockwise.
Had to get on the floor and mimic what I was doing last week end
I have a socket, so I will try using the breaker bar.
Is there a special parts number or name for the drain plug gasket or that's how I would ask for in the auto parts place?

TIA
rados
lol, don't worry... half the time i have to remind myself which way to turn. it's different when you're on your back looking up, can't explain it

there is if you wanted to get it from the dealership. it's just a simple aluminum washer, so really any hardware store will have it. just make sure you get the right size... too big on the ID and it might leak.

here's the part # if you wanted to get it from the dealership: 90430-18008. depending on the dealership, they will probably charge you an arm and a leg for it though.
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Last edited by LE05; 07-31-2011 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 08-01-2011, 06:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I am gonna take it to my local mechanic and have him loosen it a bit.
Thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 08-01-2011, 09:06 PM   #9 (permalink)
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well you just need to get the plug loose. It is better if you have 2 empty milk gallon. so thats way you can mark it how much you drain and put it back excatly. it is not a good idea to overfilled the trans. fluid.

good luck.
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Old 08-02-2011, 03:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Righty/Tighty Lefty/Loosey It's been a long time since I encountered a fastener on a car that had left hand threads. I remember some of the [I can't hardly get it out] Chryslers had left hand lug nuts on one side of the car.
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Old 08-06-2011, 06:34 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Success!
Got my mechanic to loosen the drain plug and after I got home, removed it and did the drain and fill. It took more than 20 minutes to drain! I finally gave up and screwed it back up even though few drops were still dripping every minute. The ATF was really hot because I had driven about 260 miles before I started this. I had waited almost an hour before I drained and the fluid was still warm. I measured the amount that I drained and pored in slightly less than what I took out. The tranny is shifting slightly better. I am planning on doing atleast two more drain and fills.
Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 08-06-2011, 11:53 PM   #12 (permalink)
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hi rados , I am happy to hear that u finished the drain/refill. you can buy toyota oem stuff at www.toyotapartsales.com if u order everything at once, you will save some money and shipping.

toyota type iv part # 00279-000t4
toyoya oil filter 90915-yzzd1
air filter 17801-0h010
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Old 08-07-2011, 09:05 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rados View Post
Success!
Got my mechanic to loosen the drain plug and after I got home, removed it and did the drain and fill. It took more than 20 minutes to drain! I finally gave up and screwed it back up even though few drops were still dripping every minute. The ATF was really hot because I had driven about 260 miles before I started this. I had waited almost an hour before I drained and the fluid was still warm. I measured the amount that I drained and pored in slightly less than what I took out. The tranny is shifting slightly better. I am planning on doing atleast two more drain and fills.
Thanks for your help guys.
it's my opinion that when the transmission fluid is really hot, you drain out more. i usually go do something else when it's draining just to get everything out that i can.

anyway, you should still check the dipstick even though you poured back the same amount that was drained. the transmission fluid is supposed to be checked at operating temperature, and since you drained at hot, and put in cold fluid, the level may not be exactly correct.
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Old 08-08-2011, 06:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yup, agreed. I put in slightly less than I drained out. In the morning, I checked the level on the stick and strangely enough - it was above the cold mark. Unfortunately, ran out of time and couldn't do one more drain and fill that I had meant to do. Had to drive back to work, about 260 miles, the shifting was *definitely* smoother. I will do one more drain and fill this weekend when I go back home.

Thanks
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Old 08-08-2011, 09:35 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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In the morning, I checked the level on the stick and strangely enough - it was above the cold mark.
transmission fluid should be checked with the engine running (in park). so if you checked the level with the engine off it will read high at the cold mark.

ideally, the transmission fluid should be checked at operating temperature - this will give you the most accurate reading. when it's at operating temperature, cycle through the gears: P - L, and back from L - P. leave the engine running (in park!)... pull the dipstick, wipe it off, put it all the way back in, then check the level.

hope that helps! sorry if you already knew how to check the fluid, but not everyone has access to the repair manual. the procedure is not in the owners manual where it should be
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