5th & 6th Generation (2002-2006 & 2007-2011)Toyota Camry Discussion for years: 2002-2006 & 2007-2011
Topics of discussion range from fuel economy, safety, modifications, performance all involving America's favorite family car, the Toyota Camry.
Alright, so I had to take apart the underhood fuse panel on my 2002 V6. In doing so, i had to take out the airbox (left the bendy intake hose between the box and the TB intact when I did it), the intake hose from forward of the airbox, and the battery/tray. When I put it all back together, I reconnected the following things: Four air hoses near the front/engine side of the airbox. The electrical connector that clips in near the front section of intake hose. Plugged the MAF back in. There's another electrical connection that's attached to the upper back of the airbox. There's also a wider vacuum hose that fits onto the back of the airbox, I got that one.
Anyway, the car runs great when the engine is cold. But once it warms up, it dies at idle unless you've got your foot on the throttle (pressing a little bit). what did I forget to hook up?
I checked all those connections, but is there something obvious that I'm missing here?
UPDATE: After many start and stalls I got the sumbitch to actually throw a code! WOOO-HOOO!
I got a P0110 Air intake Temp Sensor malfunction.
Where is the air intake temp sensor on this thing? Everything seems hooked up tight to the MAF and the that one thing that hangs off the back of the airbox. But I must be missing something in here.
i would just re-check everything again, making sure those vacuum hoses were indeed put back correctly. you may have not completely inserted the wires when you plugged those back in. what i would also do is, disconnect the battery (both terminals) and wait EXACTLY 5 minutes. in the meantime, clean off the battery terminal connections, and the cables, as this will "kill time" fro you, plus give you better contact. when the 5 minutes is up, re-attach the battery cables and start up the car, and let it idle for EXACTLY 10 minutes, DO NOT touch the gas pedal....just let it idle..when 10 minutes has gone by, go for a ride of at least 5 miles...
you will be allowing the computer to re-learn it's parameters at both idle and on the road.
That sounds like a good plan. I'll do that tonight.
Do you have any idea what the FSM says the resistance on the IAT is? I can check that while I'm waiting with the cables off (I cleaned the terminals and dialectic greased them last night). After a little research, I'm pretty sure its connectors are the rightmost two on the MAF connector. At about 70 degrees, I was seeing a consistent 1.088 reading.
That sounds like a good plan. I'll do that tonight.
Do you have any idea what the FSM says the resistance on the IAT is? I can check that while I'm waiting with the cables off (I cleaned the terminals and dialectic greased them last night). After a little research, I'm pretty sure its connectors are the rightmost two on the MAF connector. At about 70 degrees, I was seeing a consistent 1.088 reading.
i personally do not have a factory service manual, so i cannot give you any specs. maybe someone else can. but since everything was running fine BEFORE you disconnected things, i'm thinking something just wasn't hooked up right. otherwise, you would have had this problem LONG BEFORE this....
See, that's what I'm thinking, too. But this car has developed some SERIOUS electrical gremlins this week (you should know, you've been sticking with me this whole time). So guess what, i go down to my garage to try your test. Before doing it, I wanted to move the car a little deeper into the garage bay where there's better light. Now, the starter is fighting me!
Turn the key, and you can here an electric motor spin, bit it's not turning the engine -- just spinning like either the flywheel is missing a tooth or the cog on the starter is not coming out to engage.
I'm so pissed right now i that I want to sell this damn thing, but I'm broke right now, so there's no buying another car. I have to see this mess through!
See, that's what I'm thinking, too. But this car has developed some SERIOUS electrical gremlins this week (you should know, you've been sticking with me this whole time). So guess what, i go down to my garage to try your test. Before doing it, I wanted to move the car a little deeper into the garage bay where there's better light. Now, the starter is fighting me!
Turn the key, and you can here an electric motor spin, bit it's not turning the engine -- just spinning like either the flywheel is missing a tooth or the cog on the starter is not coming out to engage.
I'm so pissed right now i that I want to sell this damn thing, but I'm broke right now, so there's no buying another car. I have to see this mess through!
ok, let's get back to the first problem you were here about, and that was the starter....you know it's been bad, it's been giving you problems, so now, i think you know what you need to do with that starter.....replace it.
next, the battery, how many volts does it have at a full charge..?? any battery at full voltage will be between 12.5 and 13.5 volts.
if a battery cannot sustain at the very minimum 12.5 volts, many electrical devices will not work properly.
all starters, no matter what car, truck, make, brand, model that built them, are subjected to all sorts of debris from the road, and weather. meaning, the cable at the starter itself, can get corroded. a removal of the cable, at the starter, and cleaning it, like you would clean the battery connections, will sometimes work wonders, as now you will have FULL contact with clean cables at the starter.
once the starter, then the battery are taken care of, you can start looking for your problems. i do believe that jump starting the car was the first problem, that created everything else...
that being said, do as i suggested...clean the cable at the starter, make sure the battery can hold a 12.5 to 13.5 volt charge. if ALL the fuses checked out, at the very least you have found that nothing (that you can see) got burnt out.
If you think U forgot to plug in something... you can retrace your steps and worst case you have to take it apart and go through it slowly see what you missed. Hopefully you found what you missed and the car works awesome again.
It was starting before, you disconnected the battery now starter problems. Revisit that process. You pulled plugs (ie MAF, IAT) did you pull on the wires? An not the plugs? Check those connectors not just that they are plugged.
The IAT code just showed up? An it was not even immediately after you pulled everything? Revisit those plugs, the wires going into connectors. Maybe loosened a crimp in connector. Once you have methodically taken apart, checked all items and re-installed, reset code.
After you have revisited initial process start looking at changing parts not before.
UPDATE: I took your advice and backed off of it. Thank you very much for that. Instead of going right back into it on Sunday, I hung out with the family, mowed the lawn, and stepped back from the car.
My battery was putting out 12.6V, so I put it on a charger overnight.
I took the starter out and brought it to Advance to take a ride on their diagnostic machine. Here's what they found in three tests:
test 1: click but no spin.
test 2: spun just fine
Test 3: Drew so much juice that it blew the shop's circuit breaker!
Anyway, I dropped $120 on a new starter (with lifetime warranty). I put it in the car, buttoned everything up, but never started it because the battery was still on the charger. Didn't have time this morning, so I'm going to crank her up tonight. Yesterday, i also met one of my neighbors who's a full-time mechanic. He said that if it's still throwing that IAT code, I should bring it up to his house and he will hook up his computer so we can see what the sensor is actually reading.
BTW guys, here's the backstory: Glenn has been with me on this issue for a week now. It all began when the starter on the car suddenly quit. Soon after it quit, 3/4 of the electronically operated stuff in the car stopped working, too. So I've been in fuse/relay/starter hell for about a week now. Things are finally getting sorted out.
The Following User Says Thank You to hans747 For This Useful Post:
UPDATE: Alright, so I hooked up the battery and let it warm up at idle. It smelled pretty rich and had a very low idle. I took it around the block again and then it started stalling whenever I would would come to a stop.
I drove it to my neighbor's house, and he hooked it up to his scanner to see all the sensor readings. What immediately jumped out at him was that the throttle position sensor was reading 15-17% when there was zero pressure on the pedal. At wide open, it was only reading 75-78%. So There's something wrong happening there. He said the bad TPS readings would explain why I have to hold down the pedal to get the car to start/idle, because the computer is thinking it's getting 17% percent throttle when it's getting none.
I'm going to start looking into whether the TPS can be reset/recalibrated. If not, then it's going in the garbage.
It still doesn't explain why I got a code for the temps sensor, but my neighbor just said that other things probably won't read right until I get that TPS fixed.
INTERESTING SIDENOTE: Since the Camry (wife's car) has been out of commission, she's been driving my truck. Today, she didn't set the parking brake and forgot to leave the manual tranny in gear. It rolled out of its parking spot, across a sloped parking lot, and struck another car. Hello $500 deductible. I can't wait to get this Camry running again!
UPDATE: Alright, so I hooked up the battery and let it warm up at idle. It smelled pretty rich and had a very low idle. I took it around the block again and then it started stalling whenever I would would come to a stop.
I drove it to my neighbor's house, and he hooked it up to his scanner to see all the sensor readings. What immediately jumped out at him was that the throttle position sensor was reading 15-17% when there was zero pressure on the pedal. At wide open, it was only reading 75-78%. So There's something wrong happening there. He said the bad TPS readings would explain why I have to hold down the pedal to get the car to start/idle, because the computer is thinking it's getting 17% percent throttle when it's getting none.
I'm going to start looking into whether the TPS can be reset/recalibrated. If not, then it's going in the garbage.
It still doesn't explain why I got a code for the temps sensor, but my neighbor just said that other things probably won't read right until I get that TPS fixed.
INTERESTING SIDENOTE: Since the Camry (wife's car) has been out of commission, she's been driving my truck. Today, she didn't set the parking brake and forgot to leave the manual tranny in gear. It rolled out of its parking spot, across a sloped parking lot, and struck another car. Hello $500 deductible. I can't wait to get this Camry running again!
FYI...
I monitored my 07 and now my 11. The TPS is always reading between 19% to 21% (higher at cold start).
I do not beleave your problem is the TPS. Check the MAF and that area for a restriction or no motion of the valve there. Locate the proper procidures to make it relearn the correct idle.
Good luck.
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2011 XLE, I4, AT, Sliver, New May 1, 2010
MFG 02/25/2010 Stock, Shucks!
"Kinda Hard to ID in a Parking Lot"
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